Construction Channel

when have you been talking to Faye?

you have a filthy mind, we were only discussing Ciders

I think we finished the night with a Dickens. Cummins would have been irresponsible given the circumstances

what about stacking the rolls vertically inside the wall (like on the poles you hate,) then you could leave a hole the size of an empty roll at the bottom and it would just fall away when finished and drop a new one down, Just a thought.

funnily enough we got together at a cider festival in 2008. Spent the whole weekend in a tent

we will have to wait and see. there is always beer in the fridge, I still want a beer when i get home

I get this a lot, I dont think the issue is that I'm not married........... the issue is you lot didn't marry Faye

PNSFW your welcome

have you considered doing it slowly?

you can get closer into the corner to pull nails, to get the tip of a curved claw onto a nail or behind a board, you need a good few inches clearance for the handle. plus you can get a better swing when using the claw for hacking, i should add they are not quite as good for pulling really stubborn nails, as in it takes more brute force, but the benefits massively outweigh the cons for me pretty much as you suggest, hit and hope, i thought they might be ok for nailing jiffy hangers (the most common time i hit my fingers) but alas no, a 40mm twist nail only sticks out a few mm so even if you do get it in a hole, the next swing will often ping the nail off into the distance somewhere. only time i could see it being useful would be for something like 60mm rings into flooring or sheet material but most of us use a gun or screws for that now a days.

Never tried them so can't comment on the metal, also can't see the advantage of the side puller but otherwise it ticks all the boxes.

you would be better off with one of these if you want a magnet on it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanley-Tools-FatMax-AVX-Rip-Claw-Hammer-570g-20oz-STA151212-/322256842599?hash=item4b08012f67:g:P3gAAOSwkEVXGc54 at least this one has a claw on it, lets be honest how often do you actually use a hammer for hitting nails, for me its probably between 5 and 10% of the time, most of the time it is used for prying or pulling stuff, or hitting other things like studs, or chopping out hinges if you were really hard pushed

Either a 20 oz straight claw Estwing. (the last hammer you will ever buy) Or a £5 hammer from one of the sheds. (will do the job, but you won't care about it as much so will probably get lost) I would highly recommend a straight over curved claw.

i was probably a little younger say 9 or so, T-shirt and shorts, I didn't want the nest in my new den (an old very small garage), plan was smash it and run. well i smashed it OK, but the running resulted in me tripping on a bramble as i ran out the door, face planted the concrete (which did enough damage) and then being swarmed by what seemed thousands of them, they even got inside my clothes. I was covered head to toe in stings. the pain lasted for hours!!

I was an inquisitive child, One of my most painful experiences

I won't be intentionally doing that again

I poked a wasp nest with a stick when I was a kid. I wont be doing that again. ?

Nice, thats almost Quadtrack territory

i assume you mean a mole? otherwise that is a very big plough they can mole deeper if it is very fast draining land, but the mole only needs to hit the stone above the land drain and stay below a subsoiler. so it will usually stay as shallow as possible so it is easier to pull.

its not so much the ploughing that you need to worry about. 500mm sounds a very deep plough to me, unless it was a single furrow it would take a hell of a machine to pull it, mole drainers are about the deepest things that will be used. especially as you're running parallel to the existing land drain, moles will run perpendicular above the land drains but usually about 500mm

as i have thought more about this, assuming you are not crossing any existing land drains you would probably be best to make the bottom of your trench about 900mm, this would leave the top of your 4" pipe (assumption) about 800 down so this would still allow a 6" land drain to cross above it and still get the 600 cover, ya get me?? also map the run accurately and give a copy to the land owner for future reference.

http://www.ldca.org/LDCA Technical Specification for Field Drainage Schemes 2014.pdf 3.2.4 min 600mm cover but as above this will depend if you need to create a fall or just run with the land also you may want to ask the farmer if there are any existing land drains across the meadow to avoid any issues

That is some very tidy looking blockwork, looks good

Pester the hell out of them, I wish i had when i was messing about with planning (ended up taking 4 years to go full circle and resorted to PD) Phone them in the morning, and if they still haven't acknowledged it just keep phoning them and possibly send a few emails for good measure. I'm sure they can find the time between cups of tea and checking Facebook to actually do the job they are paid to do. If in doubt send an email to their superior, stating times dates and how the lack of correspondence will affect you, that was the only way I got anything worthwhile out of them. P.s I don't like planners

does the joint in the mesh help with airflow as well? the guy is FOS and from the sound of it has been from the start. I stayed out of this as you didn't need another person just to express how poor that product is. but its starting to annoy me now. I thought he said it was powder coated? do you have a picture of what you ordered in the first place? I think you are being very kind (if not too kind) not mentioning the company name.