trialuser

Norrsken, 65 square M, inc 2 entrance doors and a 4M lift and slide, 21 items, 30k ish inc vat, 8 weeks to deliver, no fitting, very pleased with them, great company to deal with.

Cheers. I won't be able to do that now as the windows will fit within the thickness of the timber frame wall panels and only have about <10mm gap all round. I thought this was correct from a heat loss aspect. Might be able to do that with the tin corner flashing I suppose.

Just to tag onto this as it now affects me. Is the above (compriband) suitable for sealing the outside gap between the timber frame of the aluclad window and the tyvek covered frame,. The windows will sit within the depth of the wall panel, possibly flush with the outside or possibly with the 10mm of aluclad proud of the external face of the frame. All the youtube stuff I have seen is about the flanged style USA windows. Can I just X cut the opening, fold the edges, patch the corners with tyvek and illbrook me315 , fit the windows, compriband the outside, foam the inside and clad up to the aluclad window with my cedar and tin. That's the plan so far. Do I need extra waterproofing to the top of the wall under the bottom of the window cill for example? Drawings or videos would be especially useful. Thanks

Ah. A technique I use is to withdraw completely and re enter the hole repeatedly until the cave ins pack tight and stop. I was reluctant to type that!

yes https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extra-Long-Metre-Long-Masonry-Drill/dp/B01MSFG1Y6/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=3+foot+sds&qid=1607198885&sr=8-6 I too have walls like that. These are ok for the price, I find it's the splined end which is hammered which gets knackered before the tip. Perhaps they are no good for sds max?

I have a worcester oil condensing combi and have experienced two 9f 855 faults which the manual says is fuel supply. One was - water in the fuel. If you have recently run ouit of oil the fill of oil may have stirred up any possible layer of water at the bottom of the tank. This can then knacker the fuel pump apparently. The second fault was a blocked condensate bottle, I washed this out and all good since.

Sorry, floor size is approx 6M wide x 17M long. I used Stevenson and Kelly as supplier.

Just another set of numbers. I have easijoists, 6345 long, (approx 6050 clear span) 304 x 147, 400mm centres, 8.4mm deflection, slight bounce if you jump, otherwise fine. Partitions and ceilings not yet in place. Not sure if these will make it better or worse. Cost for approx 17M run was just under 4.5K inc vat and delivery

I think that was in response to my post, thanks. I was hoping to initially fit a willis heater, prior to an ashp, then leave it in situ as a backup or possibly as a dump for a little bit of excess solar. Would that be possible? Presumably if I just connected it in series with the flow to the ufh from the ashp it might throttle the flow rate a bit much? Cheers.

@Nickfromwales, for my sanity, could you indicate on here where the flow and return from the boiler or ashp would join into this please. And also where the ufh loops pump sits. Thanks

Following a bit more research, I'm going to use copper. We definately have a mice issue. I assume that apart from a central point of isolation, there isn't't really a huge benefit to the manifold system.

Thanks everyone. I had been looking at uponor pipe, the shrink fit which needs a special expander tool. I didn't realise hep pipe was ok for constantly circulating hot water, that makes things much easier. @MikeGrahamT21 what are you linking to, I cant tell from the page, cheers.

@Nickfromwales, or anyone. As I understand it, one of the benefits of the distribution manifold is the absence of joints on the pipe journey, so this implies plastic pipe. Can you suggest a plastic pipe that is suitable for a HRC that doesn't need fancy tools to join. I'm struggling to find anything. Many thanks

Thanks jamiled

@jamieled and @dnb, thanks very much re the intumescent fire stop. Can either of you suggest a product or supplier. I have done some googling but everything I have found is going to be very expensive, perhaps that's just the way it is. I will be having tin cladding to the first floor and vertical cedar or siberian larch to the ground floor. cavity will be 25mm + 25mm ground floor. and 25mm +45mm first floor. the tin overlaps the wood slightly. Thanks

I would also be interested to see any details / pics, particularly detailing how you can have a ventillated (not just vented) cavity and firestopping, Still struggling with this detail.

Thanks very much, very comprehensive. I have used tek screws with square profiled steel roofs and I know exactly what you mean about the thump ? Did you fix say at the tops and lay half a dozen or so and chalk a line to align the fixings, or use a gauge rod, or how? I think I'm asking how best to get a decent straight line of screws. It also hadn't occured to me to fix the row under the ridge in the valley, but makes sense. I'm glad that the flat tek washer seals well on the curve of the corrugated profile, I didn't fancy removing and replacing thousands of flat washers with the baz ones One more thing, do you notice any issues with thermal expansion, my roof slope is about 4.2M and black, so potentially the tin could want to try and lengthen by a couple of mm Thanks again.

Thanks JamesP ☺️

Anyone. Have I done whatever is necessary to bring this to the attention of Cpd? I though if you put an @ sign in front of a name they got a notification, is that right? Thanks

@Cpd. Your roof looks great. I am probably about to change from standing seam to crinkly tin as it's a quarter of the price and my wife really likes it. I see from your photos that you used the type of flat washered tek screw usually used when fixing through the trough of square profile sheets. From my research it seems it is usual to use a fixing with a cupped baz type washer when fixing through the crest of corrugated panels. Can I ask how yours are standing up to weathering, do they seal properly? Most of the cupped washer fixings I can find are either for fibre cement, or else they wont accept the colour matching cap. Thanks

Thanks all.

Thanks, but won't that then block the cavity, particularly atthe junction of ground and first floor. and the eaves. Another problem is cladding on the ff will be wriggly tin, so not easy to block with timber. I think I understand the method with a masony skin, but I cant see how you can have a ventillated cavity and have it firestopped when cladding with wood or similar

Thanks for that, can I fix into the steel, or will that transfer any deflection load?

What did he think and what did you use, the intumescent stuff seems specialised andvery expensive. I will need to firestop and have a ventillated cavity, are there other options? Thanks

Blimey...thanks. I'm going to have to think about this hard. Presumably, even if I leave a decent gap and have compressable filler, any fixings fron the head of the frame into the steel will transfer any settlement or deflection load through to the frame.