Vijay

I'm impressed Only had one company who would quote and even with a drawing couldn't tell me if they had quoted for enough Not overly worried about the hard work, but more about not trying to take on every single job (which I have done so far) and also don't want any back issues

When it comes to the diaganol bracing, how do I know how much is needed? I like the idea of the bracing tower to support a tall lift I'm the builder so that's a yes lol but I don't know what I'll be doing about the roof when I'm at that stage, so no way of knowing if any future trades will be ok with it So toe boards on Kwikstage don't have anything to do with rigidity at all?

is that 12mm per certain span? I'm contacting a load of suppliers for the posi joists and finding a big difference in price, so that's why I asked if the hangers were made differently - as in are some better than others. Happy to do that, but is one way better than the other? Wow, didn't realise they had to be that spot on lol I think I'm right in saying that they have ends that can be trimmed down?

wasn't for this was it? https://idealcombi.com/inspiration/arts-crafts-house/?utm_source=BuildItSolus&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=ArtsAndCrafts&utm_term=ArtsAndCrafts&utm_content=ArtsAndCrafts

got mine used from Ebay for a tenner each. You may need to collect though

I'm still in two minds whether to use a normal scaffold company or get kwickstage and DIY. Price wise I'm still to get a final price off my favoured local scaffold guy but his partners price came in at £8.5 and that was for as long as I needed it (years lol which he is aware of). Only one company who quoted my on Kwikstage (and could not say if I wouldn't need more) came in at £13k inc VAT (that price was 2 years ago so has probably changed). I'm wondering if I could pick peoples brains about Kwikstage scaffolding and whether any users have any regrets about using it? 2 forum members have shared their thoughts about it and the thing I get is not to underestimate how heavy they can soon become when putting it up, down and moving it around. I have a few questions about the system if anyone can help? 1. Are there standard width(ledger) sizes to use, say 2.4m? 2. I looked at images on Google and some diagrams do not list "transoms". Are these used on all ends to hold the scaffolding together and "return transoms" for where you basically turn the scaffold 90 degrees? 3. What do you do when your corner isn't 90 degrees? 4. Is there a standard width of scaffold to go for, 1.2m? 5. How do I know how much diagonal bracing I need? 6. Do you use outriggers at all anywhere? 7. Do you just use a ledger as a handrail? 8. What is the point of toe boards, do they stop people/tools from slipping through the bottom gap? 9. How stable is kwikstage when going to 2nd and third storey heights as I have some chimney breasts to do. 10. Is there any issue with trades working on it? I would want to cut any corners on safety!! 11. I've got a couple of places where I will need to bridge over a single storey porch and external fireplace on the second lift, how is that done? 12. Lastly, how much of the purchase price could I expect to get back when I'm ready to sell? Sorry for all the questions but I've never seen the stuff let alone used it. I just want to try and work out the minimum I would need so I can decide which way to go. Vijay

Hi, Head is a little done in with personal stuff at the moment, but I have to try and get my head around the best way to fit posi joists into different materials I have. I'm very keen to not have deflection/bounce, so the joists will be at 400 centres. 1. Into ICF. So I will be having a timber plate bolted into the ICF face/concrete core for the joists to fix to. Are there 2 options here - 1st is on hangers and the 2nd is on the top chord of the joist? 2. Into RSJ webs. Does the joist just simply sit into the RSJ web? I may have an option of changing the RSG for a posi joist, would that be better or worse? 3. Into load bearing 100mm block walls. Should I fix into the block work as it's built, or bolt a timber to the side of the blocks and fix the same as I would with the ICF walls? Are all joist hangers made the same or do some makes fix better than others? I've also seen mention on a post about face fix and top fix hangers. Any advice would be really appreciated Cheers Vijay

can you mix and match between PB and Fermacell depending where you want/need it?

I cannot confirm or deny that! lol

Never thought about curtains or blinds, but I would have no probs fixing them to the ceiling. I'll contact the window companies to see what options they offer Why wouldn't they guarantee windows at that height though??

worth putting talc powder or flour over the area to see exactly where it leaks from? Or possibly UV dye so you can trace the leak exactly??

I have 2 largish external openings of 3385 wide which are probably going to be either french or sliding doors. The height of the openings on the plans is 2400 and my finished ceiling height is 2586. What I'm wondering is would it look nicer if the doors were full height without the 186 of wall at the top. I can't think of any negatives apart from it might cause me a slight issue with the brick slips on the outside but I'm sure I could do something to sort that out. My build is in ICF so it's easily adapted. I have 2 windows along that same wall which are both 2250 head height. Has anyone done full height doors? Any pics? Cheers Vijay

Anyone used the black guttering with white internal to help with the problem of expansion?

Just make sure you pay part (I think it's at least £100) by credit card to get section 75 insurance

Some handy tips for the Paslode - http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/some-handy-paslode-nail-gun-tips-t78111.html

Got no power on site as of yet, I use a genny and I don't leave any tools on site. So having cordless makes sense for me

Cheers guys Is it ok to use carb/brake cleaner to clean it?

Cheers Ed. I saw another YouTube video that showed exactly the same, just looks too easy though. I'll order up some Paslode oil and give it a go

Hi, Bought a used Paslode yesterday (IM350/90CT) and wondered if the service on them is DIY? It works well but I'd like to do a service before it gets put to use. I'm sure I read on an old post that they are fairly easy to do but can't find the post. Cheers Vijay

Only where mine goes from single to double storey (obviously to support the upper ICF wall), otherwise mine are timber stud for non load bearing and block for load bearing

I've always wondered why a stop isn't put to that, way too easy to screw people over and start again like it's wiped clean

They do battery powered ones but I suppose you have to weigh up the cost vs how many times you'll use it. Saying that, if you were going to pay for a tradesperson to do it, that could cost you more

Is the water main in any ducting or just buried? I thought the drainage pipe is fine as long as it has a joint either side for movement?

Would incense sticks work too? - added bonus of a nice smell

Having a shared access road has got to be one of my biggest regrets. I put so much thought into trying to deal with the contract to buy my land that I didn't really think about all eventualities to do with the shared access road. It's totally taken the shine off my build. As already said, problems arise when different house owners have different views/finances and it can get extremely messy and stressful. I also agree something might have to be in the title deeds to cover yourself for future owners.