Vijay

A quick sketch of the idea I had from what Nick said. I thought of installing a painted/galvanised steel "T" into the ICF core. On the garage side, I have insulation to give the break between the outside and the screed. On the outside part, I have slots cut into the horizontal face which would allow drainage. The garage door comes down onto the middle of the horizontal face of the "T", so I can get a nice flat face for the the door seal to go on. Good or bad idea??

I emailed a couple of suppliers about supporting this bob tail roof. First said " We can design bobtail trusses with hangers if required" but the other supplier said "Timber hangers would be an option for trusses with light support reactions, however for multiple-ply girders you’re going to run into problems as face-fix timber hangers can only take up to a certain load. I’d recommend terminating the panel for normal wallplate height so the truss can transfer the load straight down through the wall." I think it makes more sense to keep the wall plate lower, then build up the wall once the trusses are in place with ICF, then if it's ok, I will back-fill the ICF inner core with concrete (so the timber trusses are buried in the concrete)

what's the weight comparison for timber/steel?

I enquired about steel staging boards. I was told they still can rust so I assume they are not galvanised then? In the PDF manual I posted earlier, it says steelstage is galvanised................................... I can get used steel stage boards for the price of new wood boards

Just saw a gas safe guy and mentioned it to him. He said it should tilt upwards and it could be the seals that need to be changed in flue

I've told her to dig out the paperwork for the installation, she thinks it was 3-4 years ago. Very good shout with the CM alarm, that never crossed my mind. Just checked and she doesn't have one fitted. I'll get one tomorrow and fit it for her

kinda looks unfinished

no it's in the kitchen

I personally think the right way it should have been done is flue out of the boiler, right angle and straight out the wall. I think the installer should have sorted out the copper pipework properly

Not sure what she's gonna do to correct it. If she got the flue hole lifted higher, I don't know if there's be enough movement in the pipework to angle up to the new hole

I was round a friends today and noticed water dripping from the boiler flue joints. She has no idea how long it's been dripping, but I'd guess for a while judging by the marks on the flue. It's a Vallient EcoTec pro 28 combi boiler. A quick search suggests it could be the angle of the flue is wrong and it's not draining back, but instead water is accumulating inside the flue and dripping out of the joints. I can't help thinking the gas safe installer was a bit lazy by not putting the flue straight out the wall, but he's added an extra bend to get round the pipework I'd guess. That could be the issue?? Has anyone come across this before? Cheers Vijay

Any idea if the truss supplier were ok with that?

That's a very good point that has crossed my mind many a time I can assure you. Not joking at all. It was estimated I needed around 20k brick slips at just over £1 each (going back a few years so probably changed). I could get a brick for less than that. Both were direct from Forterra who make the brick/cut for slip. Then I buy a machine something like https://www.husqvarnacp.com/uk/machines/masonry-saws/ts-400-f/965148101/ for a grand or so. I know it will be a long job cutting them, but if it takes me a couple of weeks, that's a saving of around 10k. I contacted various companies to cut slips from bricks, both with saws and even water jet cutting, both were more expensive than buying the slips direct from Forterra.

I would only insert one leg of the spacer, so would just keep pulling them out and re-using It's xps if that makes any difference. Polarwall didn't have an issue with it and I contacted a fair few cartridge adhesive suppliers and non had an issue. I do get your point of the face of the XPS coming away with the slip and adhesive, but was assure it was fine. I know slips are no cheaper - they're double the price of the brick!! lol I may end up cutting the slips myself from bricks but that's a long way down the line I have to use an exact brick and only "sort of near matches" come in panels. So brick slip panels are out the window. I'll give them a call on Monday https://www.wbs-ltd.co.uk/

Why do I have to use a carrier system though, is there any safety reason? I will certainly look into carriers, but when I enquired about them initially (when I first looked at ICF which seems like a VERY long time ago lol) the price was pretty horrific and I would need a hell of a lot of them................... Everything on my build is long winded - just feel for me when I have to point it all up - now that is what I call long winded!!! ?

9/10mm spacers, just like tiling? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wall-Floor-Tile-Plastic-Cross-Spacer-10mm-White-100pcs/302138010245

The only reason was it would mean lowering the height of the wall plate to suit and then finishing the top part of the wall in either another method (timber I guess) or possibly in ICF. So did you fix your wall plates inside the ICF or on top of it? I wondered if I could carry up the wall in ICF (once the trusses are in) and then fill with concrete mixed in a cement mixer. That would mean the original wall plate and then the vertical part of the attic trusses are buried in the concrete core of the ICF - but it would mean the wall is as much of a continuation of the ICF walls as I can get it

Carrier system? I was advised I only need to bond them on.

So the wall plate would be under "A" and not "B"? I'm cladding in brick slip. If the stubs were built out, would that not be a bit of a cold bridge? I'd much prefer to keep the walls ICF.

I’m trying to get the wall levels up to wall plate heights and just need to ask about the attic trusses for my single storey roof. I Believe I will need “Bob tail” attic trusses and I wondered if these can be supported off joist hangers? I have attached a picture where I have arrowed where I mean would sit on joist hangers. It’s not as straight forward as I’m building in ICF and would install a vertical wall plate to fix the hangers.

Ah, I never even thought about getting prices for those. I'll enquire just to tease myself lol Are standard boards treated?

So definitely new boards. It's a good point that I won't know the history of them and I will be using them for years. What do you mean by steel staging?

What's the views on used/refurbed or new? I'm sure I read on a post somewhere not to bother with used boards?

Maybe as already said, the lender needs to know your intentions in full details. The fact that you're sinking your own money into it will hopefully set them at ease a little as you have just as much to lose if anything were to go wrong.

I think I'm right in saying (and I could well be very wrong), but you don't actually own your property when when there's a charge on it from a mortgage lender until the loan is paid in full. So from their point of view, you've ripped down their property :O lol