Vijay

If it's a case of it not locking onto the nipple, these are brilliant https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK45-Quick-Connect-Grease-Coupler-Lock-On-Quick-Release-1-8-BSPT/222998334711?epid=1765389408&hash=item33ebbc8cf7:g:5DYAAOSwDEtaJW2o

Some really good advice, but really take in that part because it's so true, it really does consume your every thought - but hopefully worth it I'm sorry to hear for your loss. One of my best friends has just been diagnosed with 5 of them in his brain and even with treatment, it's 12-18 months. It's even more reason to try and go for a self build if your hearts desires it

Exactly what I was told. Opportunists will pick the easiest target, so makes others easier than yours!!

You're right if someone is determined to get in, but smash and grab thieves will pick the least secure house

A mate who fitted alarms for a living swore by Texecom as Peter suggested

https://www.mymemory.co.uk/tile-sport-key-and-phone-finder-2-pack-graphite.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwxaXtBRBbEiwAPqPxcIvzGZfzIFyBetSknrooE5J2u8aVeeFqcdH7Ib0eLOd9NMxbgQV0tRoCoFMQAvD_BwE I think I saw something like those in Costco if you're a member

if using those hinges you'll be opening two doors for the appliance.

Not too late at all (I wish lol) and a very good point. I'm pretty sure I already asked my architect about that and was told it was because it was at the top of the stairs. I guess if I had the door opening the other way and had something to stop it opening more than 90 degrees or so, it would help/prevent from falling. At the moment the door is 533 wide which is pretty tiny and useless. I will look at having it at least 838 like the rest of the doors, or as you suggest, some sort of bi-fold. I appreciate the comment

lol don't know where they get the energy!!

Just wanted to say thanks for helping me see sense. I was looking at it wrongly, take 1 or so steps in from the door and you practically see straight up to the double height ceiling. No one is going to stand at the door and look up, it's natural to walk in The only thing I'm considering (and it probably won't happen) is reducing that part of the land to 800 or 1000mm - but as I said, probably will just keep it at 1250mm to match the rest of the landing

Is the hot supply from a hot water cylinder or combi/mains pressure, and cold from water tank or mains pressure. The only reason I can think of why he's done that is cold is on mains pressure?

Yep, don't go on Stictly or Grand Designs if you love your partner lol

I'm paying around 1k for my site insurance. I shopped around and kept getting them to price match/beat, so was the cheapest I could find. Could it be size of plot and location that makes the difference? Mine automatically included 20k worth of personal plant and tools

Nope, the drawings are of my house and the photos I found online that were just examples of what it could look like

I'm common from London and have only ever heard of a porch lol In that case, I have a vestibule, which then has an open porch covering at the front

Absolutely no chance on that even if I wanted to. Style is an arts and crafts style house, so very traditional is what the planners want. I haven't got any issue with the front part of the porch (the open part), it's just the lobby/front/second doors and glass above I'm struggling with I've attached a front elevation drawing Are you happy with it as a feature or wish you went with anything else?

I assume it's a vaulted ceiling too? Both. Opinions on the glass triangle above both doors and then what sort of door would be used as the second door, internal or external? I think it's actually more hassle to do it in ICF because of the way it's been designed - as in getting a rebar for the lintel above the front door..................... As well as letting in light, I thought it might be a nice feature as it would just be brick otherwise which in my head doesn't look very nice above a front door. The second door would obviously be plaster boarded so that's not really an issue in terms of looks. Excuse the ignorance, but what's a vestibule door?

Hi Guys, Really need some help and opinions on my porch design as I'm hitting a brick wall with it. I have a lobby/porch that comes out from the house by 2138. It then has an open porch of 788. So 2926 in total from the house. The total width is 2640 with a door opening of 1890 (which would include door and 2 side glass panels) From the front it looks like the attached drawing where you can see it will have oak timbers to finish it off. The issue I am having is with the enclosed lobby/porch and in particular, the triangle part above the doors. I am thinking it might be a nice feature to have in glass and it would possibly let more light into the hall. The triangle above the front door would be approx 1813 across the base and approx 831 high. The triangle above the second door would be the same base, but would not be a complete triangle, as the tip would be at the landing joist level (in the attached where the landing joist is in yellow and shape of the triangle would be in red). Hope that makes sense In my head I'm thinking of something like the attached pic but obviously with a single door and not quite as wide. I am building the lobby/porch in ICF, the same as the house so part of the envelope. I saw the door in grey with side panels and really liked it, so it's the possible choice for my front door and I will have the glazing in 3g. I can't get my head around what I would do with the second door, do I just treat it as an internal door? I appreciate any thoughts on this

This is what I bought https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rotary-Red-Laser-Level-Tripod-Staff-5-Degree-Range-Alignment-Self-Leveling/231715205939

I agree that they aren't all bad, but finding one you can trust seems to be a rare thing. I only know of one around who works local. A mate had a problem with his combi which was obviously the diverter valve. The heating engineer even told him so, but said he needed a new boiler at £2200 as the part was too expensive to change and if that had gone, then other things would soon fail. You can get the diverter for £80 or the service kit for £15. I know for a fact it's less than an hour to change the part. There's just more money in charging someone a grand odd labour to install a boiler which is just wrong!!

Should have just made up profile sticks. Set a datum point and then just use that stick to make sure you got every layer of bricks right. That's what I did when I built my garage years ago

Another idea is drill a hole slightly larger than the screw, inject with chemical resin and then screw it in but taking care not to over tighten in. When set, it would give you the sleeve.

Ditto and I tested mind with a water level over 20m, it was spot on.

Having a sleeve is exactly what I thought of doing in situations like this

If I left out the steel and want to put it in at a later date, how difficult would that be? On the SE's drawings, they attach with cleats and bolts, but is there any wiggle room when fitting these? I wondered because measuring very accurately over 7 odd metres might be a slight issue as per the post last week about tape measures