Nickfromwales

Maybe best to fill up and run a sludge remover chemical and leave to run for the recommended period of running time, then drain down and refill a couple of times, then treat with inhibitor? You’ll be running the heating for winter? What cost are you referring to? If you don’t run it then you can’t chemically treat it (DIY flush), and you will then have to pay up to 4 figures for an invasive power flush by a couple of plumbers.

Norrsken just installed on my current clients project (via Elite). Excellent team of fitters, great work ethic, everything foamed and sealed meticulously. The masonry was difficult to read and that resulted in the sliders needing pushing out one side by <10mm to square them up (you’d have seen it with the EWI so I pushed for them to return to make the adjustment). A bit of push / pull at the outset of the request, where they escalated it back to Norrsken. A nice lady called up to get the issue understood from their point of view, and then Norrsken paid Elite to return to sort the issue out. All dealt with very quickly, efficiently, and effectively, with the minimum of fuss. You have nothing to worry about here afaic. This client made the final payment a couple / few days before the delivery was due. Delivery was smooth and went well, with Elite supervising and taking full ownership of the delivery / logistics / manual handing etc. 10/10 from me.

Nothing is done on here for reward. Donations are made without provocation unless the BH coffers get super-low; at that point we put up a banner to request some funds incoming.

Then on your own head be it. Cant have your cake and eat it, in a nutshell. If they’re £10k over the uk national average then its £10k / 180 days of delay. I think you’re spilling hairs personally, after the horse has bolted, after accepting costs incoming; those which you took as acceptable as being based on trust and convenience.

Just good (robust) woodwork and framing here for 2 x framed WCs and then plasterboard and tiles. Thin bead of sikaflex / CT1 on the metal of the frame and use that to bond the PB to the frame, and it’s rock solid for life.

@Rick734 Check out my info here. Searching will dig up some others

I’ve never used anything more than plasterboard over the last >25 years of doing high end bathrooms.

Did you report it?

In the med you can sit outside and enjoy the views, in the uk you’d get wet and cold doing so, ergo ‘we’ choose portals to view the outdoors / scenery and small windows don’t lend themselves very well to this pursuit. Solar reflective glazing works very well, and only needs buying once / is zero maintenance. Buying heat to offset the reduction in winter solar gain is not worth the argument, in a well insulated, cheap to run dwelling anyways, so afaic fill your boots.

@Dee, who fitted the boiler and did they flush it?

You can use cable ties and bases on things like MVHR ducts, as they’re not heavy, but obvs no good for soil pipes etc. No specific regs afaic, just more common sense and a robust approach to resolve this. Soil pipes need clips or banding, and as water changes direction you need to arrest any movement that would eventually cause a fitting to come away from the pipe. Water pipes have clips for the pipe size, so easy solution there.

The top rail of the manifold has flow meters which show litres per minute per loop. When running, can you see these moving and what do they show? The hope would be that the ones for the rooms not heating up would show no flow, meaning you have airlocks or a poorly balanced setup that needs tweaking. The worst outcome may be that the actuators on the bottom rail have snuffed it and are no longer opening the loops to the affected rooms. Any info on the first question re the flow of water would be a good place to start.

Crikey! That’s a very complex arrangement. Could you take some pics standing a bit further away so we can see what’s what? Thanks.

Any reason to flush? You’ve drained this down a number of times and have some new valves here and there? Water still grotty, or just cool spots on rads?

Yup. KISS wins every time mate. Tbh you’d be opening up a giant can of worms if you went opening up / disturbing bigger sections of ground near existing founds to drop pads in afaic, so glad that sense has prevailed here At least underpinning can be controlled in smaller sections.

I’d go for the single location, wherever, with a larger lower temp cylinder, and a secondary hot return circuit which was insulated very well; this is what I do on most jobs and works a treat. When you get used to near zero wait time for premium temp DHW to come out of the tap, you’ll not go back to tolerating the wait. If there’s solar or cheap lecky to use to offset the small uplift in energy costs to run this system then it’s a very nice luxury to have and doesn’t cost a lot. Place the money saved from the 2nd cylinder ( labour / materials etc ) into a glass jar, and use that to pay the energy bill.

Dont you just want to catch this crud at the unit filters, vs climbing up and getting fingerprints on the room vents? Unit filters are cheaper than shoplifting so why add the ballache of having to micro-maintain this?

Only the most pedantic BCO will ask for it to be at the very end of a run, so if that’s not practicable then just say you have an SVP and keep the details to an absolute minimum

I got done like a kipper fitting one a couple of weeks back lol. Was looking at the symbols from the back of the unit and my poor little brain didn't allow me to mirror it. An hour or so of swearing and looking like a tit in front of the client, and all good. Noticed just after I had finished fitting the self adhesive neoprene insulation to it...ffs. 🥲😭🥲

Why are you wasting room with mats when you can just clip directly to the P5 deck (floorboards)?

I’m saying you don’t have one run with a WC on the end and another further down the same pipe, you have 2 pipes, one in each room. Therefore you can ignore my corner branch as I mistakenly thought you dropped in the corner that side. Can you dril through the wall and connect the WC closest to the SVP into the horizontal run of the other WC?

Ah, cool. Picture speaks a thousand words, and all that jazz. The fitting in the corner will need to be one of these https://ebay.us/m/ICnVBo You don’t have 2 WCs in one 110mm line so my previous about Y branch can go away. All good with 90° bends (bent pan connectors) and straight runs. For the double corner branch, just order a cleaning / rodding eye (access cap) to push into the top outlet to close it off.

In isolation I’d use S&C for strength and longevity.