Nickfromwales

Use the Rubi one I linked to? It is a guide and waters the bit as you’re drilling? If you buy the one from SFx you’ll need a hand held water bottle to keep spraying it with. Yes to screw holes only, 👌

My client in Gravenhill used FC and the guy who offered to prep and sand on day rate was there forever, and went through about 5 or 6 different sanding machines.

Do yourself a huge favour, and get it skimmed. The pain of doing Fermacell is excruciating, and the walls show the areas you’ve sanded unless you then skim them over with a finer, more synthetic filler such as Tupret. You have my sympathy if you’re sanding a whole house of this.

I fitted 3 of the earlier units in one large multi-bathroom etc (£4m) house and they just dropped like flies. SA changed them for the “new and improved” unit, and they then snuffed it one at a time. Terrible build quality, you’ll find pics I posted on here. I worked directly for SA for a couple of years, and my sole purpose was going to disgruntled clients to be shouted at because of the lack of communication etc. As the fella in charge is a social media hog it appears people on BuildHub get suspiciously good levels of service, but that’s not been the case offline I assure you, in my direct experience. One client got refused an exchange as they said it was a ‘non standard’ installation, the laugh was that they approved my design prior to them going in, ffs 🤦‍♂️ The only true measure you can really get of these is by speaking to installers (who want the kill) or reading here (and not realising it is pure marketing BS that they react immediately and “go the extra mile”). They didn’t for a poor lady who was washing her hair in the kitchen sink for 13 weeks…….

Erm….how much were you quoted for an UVC to be installed?? Sunamp / Thermino’s supplied and fitted are absolutely insane money. Spoke to a guy the other day who got billed £7k for a 9 (210) unit.

When you get through the tile you need to poke back through the drill bit to get the pellet of tile out, before drilling the next hole. When you get through the tile, stop. You can screw through the backer board and the ply for additional purchase.

+1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/RUBI-4927-Easygres-Accessories-Metallic/dp/B00A3SDNK8/ref=asc_df_B00A3SDNK8?mcid=974bd86e521831afbdb57ac519b0afc3&th=1&psc=1&hvocijid=14815439965987008970-B00A3SDNK8-&hvexpln=74&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696285193871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14815439965987008970&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046619&hvtargid=pla-2281435176618&psc=1&gad_source=1

Whoa! If it went up as is, then it will come back down as is. You just need to get it facing down with the springs spread apart and it’ll just need to be pulled down with maybe a long nose pliers, or maybe 2 of them. Twist it slightly back and forth (not rotating it as much as a 1/4 turn, less should suffice) and keep at it. Wear eye protection obvs. If you damage the ceiling where the pliers are, which you will, then a bit of Tupret filler from Screwfix will sort that out.

Sunamp. #onborrowedtime

Anybody who specs silicone for this should be shot on sight. Fundamental sealing such as this need to be done with a non-silicone mastic, such as a Sika product or something like CT1.

I'm into double-digits.....and the first number isn't a 1.

There’s a crazy wealth of diversity on here.

You tend to want a softer metal vs say a hardened bolt. Threaded bar is plenty good enough, maybe better go M16 even as it’s 150mm of timber to pull together.

At least then you'll have the..........cold, hard, facts lol.

The accumulator would need to be on the supply side, before any restriction were in place. Pointless (imo) putting it where you show as it's not able to "perform admirably" there tbh. I'd also T the expansion vessel off the cold inlet instead of the hot outlet, as that's a far happier life for it, if possible. And yes, adding the much uplifted volume of expansion should put this to bed afaic, even if it seems overkill to most. At first glance it may get questioned, but when you have eagle-eyed folk on here spot the 2.1 bar inlet pressure then it would immediately make sense.

If it's LED then it's going to live a long life. Take the springs off, put a few dots of water based grip fill around the ring, and put a bit of batten in for the night to hold it in place until the GF has gone off. It is what it is.

I've been on sites for a long time, my own run ones since 2007, and never had that happen. I provision leads and a couple of tranny's so as to prevent trades 'fighting' over one lead and plugging loads into one outlet. I don't leave splitters or spiders on site on purpose, to prevent this exact thing. If you leave it to fate, someone will try and set fire to something. Manage it, and be proactive against that happening......and it won't.

Temporary Builders Supply

Because the Velox system is shart and you just can't make a straight enough wall with it (also it's woodcrete so no 'webs' ).

I think you need to get a decent 230v supply over there first as last tbh. Leave 5m of slack at the house end, coiled up at your then TBS, and uncoil to move it to the room it'll reside in for eternity as the build progresses. That's just too long / adverse a run to be taking extension leads etc back/forth.

Can't see why not as long as the bends you form are long-radius.

I would. That pipe is designed to be directly buried forever and is pretty bombproof. If it is off a T after the primary stopcock it is no longer 'technically' a rising cold mains, it's just a spur, so no need to do the stopcock and non return valve etc all over again.

Oil ones blast the DHW out. Way better than gas equivalent. As you have oil on site, maybe better to pick the battles accordingly to see if you can cope on their offering for a single supply.

Did this over Velox ICF and got 0.66 ACH (as-built). Would have been more like 0.4-something if the doors and windows didn't leak so much.....

Myself, probably over-opinionated. Just seen D&D done excellently with great results enough times to be willing to defend it. And if @nod will use this in his own house and his clients 7 figure builds, then it defo isn't any form of compromise; other than, as you say, losing 15mm of GIA per wall.