Nickfromwales

That’s just a land drain which lets the water through the wall that would otherwise look to erode the wall or the ground under it, in order to escape. These usually just dribble down and a ditch / drain carries the rainwater away. Not sure you can easily / effectively connect a pipe to this as is. It would likely need a new piece of plastic drain pipe through that dwarf wall and for you to carry that on to the drain.

Brand new cars are held together with double sided sticky tape.

Nothing worse than someone trying to save money on their TV licence, and using your drive-thru to watch the end of Catchphrase! “Say what you see!” erm….. ”the ass end of next doors car”.

These are often OEM in heat pumps etc. Always confused me as to how the automatic air got released sideways when the mechanism relies on a float / gravity.

Yup, aka crude! At best.

Yes, lol 😂.

Where’s top of screed?

As for the neighbour, maybe some driving lessons or a trip to Specsavers? ffs!?!🤦‍♂️

They’re ‘stones’ not bricks. But first you need to rule out whether they’re stone cladding or solid stone. Any loose enough to remove? As far as a claim, you should ask for a stone mason or very good Bricky to say if these can be picked out whole, cleaned and reinstated. A new area will likely stick out like a sore thumb.

If it’s anything like a lighting design I’ve just seen, it’s a floor level up light.

Is the roof being converted too? If not, insulating the walls is pointless.

Henry hoovers are just bombproof.

Used these previously, from the same supplier who’s based in Poland iirc. Low loss header for a bit of volume, but primarily for hydraulic separation. https://culmstoreseltermltd.co.uk/en_GB/p/Low-Loss-Header-40kW%2C-1-insulated/221 Another, more compact solution, but the 25L version would give better results methinks. 50L better again if you’ve got room. For just the other £100 or so I’d go for this https://culmstoreseltermltd.co.uk/en_GB/p/Buffer-Cylinder-Volumiser-VOLANO-TERMICO-PDC-25l-/357 These are mild steel so you need to be well dosed with inhibitor.

Volumiser on flow, not return btw.

The stats probably read at the lower cooler section of the heater, so you’re correct in that you see the output temp being much higher than the displayed set temp. What you need to do is dial these back in live play, to get the output temp that you require, using the stat as a ‘volume control’ vs using the markings denoted on it. I’d still say to add a primary pump and tee off a recirculating loop, maybe via a 25L or 50L volumiser, for the best long term functionality. Should see much fewer on / off switching events and max out longevity of the controls. I’d defo keep the TMV and manifold pump as is, for ultimate floor temp control. You’ve already paid for and installed them anyways.

I only ever do a pair of D1 max into one D2 and that goes to one trap on one branch off the stack where practicable. Theres no problem if its a 40mm pipe coming off that picks up more than one trap, and the other traps collect water from appliances. See here where D2 is on a 40mm run that picks up both discharges from the softener that sits in that chair. Nowt wrong with this setup.

He uses his words well lol.

You just insulate the pipe, then the heat (loss) is contained but the slug of cold water is deleted. Straight off the cylinder is the larger bore, 22mm or 28mm sometimes, hot water pipework, so when running a basin hot tapo this becomes way more of an issue; dumping out the cold water before getting hot out of the tap to wash hands after using the loo. For the shower, or a bath, or filling the kitchen sink, utterly irrelevant, just way more of an issue with frequent use, low flow outlets such as basins. If you're happy to stay fully clothed and wash your hands in tepid water, please ignore me and loop away. FYI, I've never done that loop on a pressurised unvented cylinder setup, and never will. I only do a more significant anti-gravity loop if it's a vented cylinder and the CWS is constantly heated / 'hot'.

Do the same with the basin hot tap and report back please. You can keep your clothes on for that one The expense of continuous heat loss? C'mon..... we're talking pennies and the benefit outweighs the long term losses of the discharged cold water through the meter. Happy to stay up and fight for this one, as I'll win.

Nope. That's as clear as mud lol. Try again please, as even I am confused by that one!

You snooze, you lose fella.

This is a major worry! You need to know exactly what the pressure leaving the PRedV is. Sometimes you can buy a 1/4” gauge and fit it into the blanked off port on the control group, but yours doesn’t appear to have a plastic blanking plug to use to fit this? Can’t see both sides of the valve.

If there’s no hot return circuit & pump, I promote this heat creep (it’s not thermo syphon as it can’t loop back) to limit the amount of cold stagnant water that needs to be drawn off before getting premium hot water out of the taps. @MikeSharp01 you need a gap between the expansion vessel test valves.

+1 Last one I installed has these. Much easier than a full drain down tbh. These come with a wire that you push through for security, a bit like the DNO fits to the fuse and meter, to prevent misadventure.

Just drill new bolts a couple of inches away, and grind off the ones in the way. No need to remove the ledger if it’s level and other fixings are kosher? Plus one on the washers being too small. They have just been wound into the treated wood which is soft and won’t give much purchase. Should be big square washers afaik.