Nickfromwales

If there's mention of damage, then replace, yes. You need someone HETAS registered to do the work ok, so don't take anyone's word for it, ask to see their credentials.

There should be no reason, if that's not damaged, why you cant fit a new closure plate and re-use. Looks awfully small bore for a solid fuel appliance though? Did you have much of an issue with spillage?

The temp of the slab is never, imho, going to be high enough to have an amount of movement that a modern decoupling membrane wouldn't deal with simply. And then you'd have to convince me. You can get tile adhesives that allow <10mm of decoupling between both surfaces. What are your intended floor finishes to be?

My Bosch is quite clever, as it'll spin up very slowly with the clothes changing position, and keeps doing so until the load is even, and then it speeds up bit by bit and then if happy goes for gold. If it can't get happy it doesn't go faster than 800rpm I think (1600 machine) to stop it from committing harakiri.

They will email you one I'm sure, just ping them a request

Illbruck FM 330 expanding foam. Defo nothing that would bridge damp such as wood / mortar and the like. Would need some DPM there obvs, but that foam goes off way tougher than the usual foams from builder merchants etc. You'd foam and fit the boards as you went along, so the boards are perimeter sealed with the 330 foam, both in front of and behind the DPM. FYI the 330 foam is closed cell so won't bridge damp like most regular off-the-shelf foams, plus it kills off the cold junction between the existing floor and the new, and is much much hardier all round. LINK

Words I never thought I'd see in the same sentence on here, but hey ho lol. So airtight, and then trickle vents in all the windows and extractor fans I guess?

I most definitely am! I was just asking, because if there's a quality frame such as yours, and most AT methodology is known from day dot, you could avoid that cost, perhaps, that's all Out of curiosity, when had you panned getting them in, and were you going to attempt a DIY blower (pre) test of any sort?

Prob with ICF is you need to pump or hand-ball from a flexi bucket to get it into the 150mm gap. Would require staging to do that from a barrow, successfully I expect.

The AVCL leaks behind the layers though, so the taping isn't really robust, but where do you stop if there's trades blasting through jobs. The best thing I find is speaking to the trades before they get their tools out.

I'd just store the plywood in the rooms to acclimatise, prob for 48hrs min, and then they should just stay at ambient and not do much more tbh. Saw a whole house in oxford prepped for Amtico, and they just carried the boards in, butted the boards up to each other, PVA'd the Egger P5's, and then counter-sunk and blasted in a bezillion screws. Holes/gaps were just filled with exterior grade filler afaik, and then sanded back by the Amtico guys who then applied feathering compound and sanded that back again. If the boards are left in these spaces for a day or two that should satisfy any worries, if any actually exist that is.

What was the cost of a cube from the dry wagon, if you can recall? Saw one in action in Ilford, was quite impressed by the concept.

If you've 2 mixers on site and 3 bodies you can mix and pour for a small DIY job like this. Don't choose librarians, get some guys with thick arms and strong backs, as the pace will be relentless for an hour or two. I guy feeding the next mix into the empty mixer, 2 guys supporting/hand-balling the mix into flexi-tubs and into the ICF. If you're on site to help out even better. Don't attempt this on your own btw.....

He's not doing a build, this addition IS "the build"

Get them listed on BH marketplace?

Don't put in fan coils, or don't.....put in fan coils instead? Reads both ways, so just for clarity plz

Any gaps would have to be filled as even with the underlay the lino will show everything under it, as would LVT.

DIY it in EPS ICF blocks? You'll have issues with rain penetrating if you just use aerated block, unless you can render externally?

You mean you'll ask them to do it as 'makeup' ? They should finish this so your external finishes go up to their makeup, if being left exposed for any length of time.

1) In practice, these people would be bound by a jacket that ties up at the rear.... 2) If I hadn't already had 3 beers, I'd drive there right now and apply the back of my hand to you, sir. Absolutely NOT on your NELLY! All of our work has clearly been in vain.....close BH, turn off the lights....the message just isn't hitting home. It's your AVCL!! 3) Why? And be honest. Lack of confidence, or other?

This is Buildhub mate, you'll need to specify length, width, type of stitch used in manufacture (with a link to the manufacturers specs for the needle), the ambient temp and humidity of the factory, and what day it was made. I just hate it when people post without sufficient information 🙄

"Ladies and gentlemen....please place your bets for the 53rd national Kentucky washing machine derby"...

I almost got sucked into the vortex of looking at the many different screws I could buy and put into organisers, that may possibly get used, maybe,.......but I'd have them, lol.

.....evening boss, sorry I'm late! Ok, so the real elephant in the room is the AVCL. If they miss, then they'll withdraw the fixing, and go again, making lovely holes in your airtightness layer; a crime punishable only by a slow and painful death afaic. This is the real crux here imo.

If it's in the hole, put a load in and rinse then spin. Proof/pudding