Nickfromwales

Modern wood screws such as Velocity, my favoured fixings. Spearpoint tip with a slot to allow the wood to be cut as the screw goes in, partially threaded to prevent jacking, and ridges on the countersink to allow the heads to pull in without splitting the wood. We’ve come a long way since cabinet screwdrivers

Can't be, there's no fish left.......

McDonalds.....

230v fittings have current ratings to suit, and when you drop the voltage the current shoots up, simple V/I/R calcs will show you the impact there. Also, you'd need to run bigger cables too, to combat voltage drop. Not a huge issue in a smaller house with a centralised 'cabinet', but if one end of a larger dwelling you will find it prohibitive / impractical I think.

All very neat, methodical work. FYI you can't really sit stud walls down on to the thinner screeded floors, they need to go to founds over kickers, as you have, especially if there's any loads being transferred down from 'above'. No bullet dodging to ever be had there methinks so you're all good to just cut around these, and the lads are doing a sterling job of it too. Keep the bacon flowing, the grease keeps the elbows and knees lubricated

lol.

I used a coil-nailer with round head nails. When I did feather edge with a 1st fix it killed the wood, so I tried my 2nd fix which just couldn't hold the seasonal changes in the wood, and just pulled the nails out or just through. With one of those (coil nailers) you can have nails as short as 22mm iirc. I used 55's for the feather edge. For the framing, just use screws and an impact driver. Much more forgiving as 45mm timber may otherwise split. Also a huge ballache if you need to take it apart after a mis-measure.

They're all lying, 2 faced, self-serving assholes though. Not just any one of them.

@Dee at least your rats can't fly lol....

Not enough cement available.....and I'm not willing to share any of my pies, or pasties for that matter lol. The government do not seem to want to help to get rid of the 2 or 4 legged/winged variety. Personal injury ain't! My son had a bad cut to his thumb, as the fecking things beak was like a breadknife. Just imagine what that can do to a face. My pack of 2x16 slices.....when I looked at it properly, the beak had gone through the quite thick plastic, and through 14 of the 16 slices!!!! Even with me running towards it, it refused to let go of the pack until I was less than a metre away. And even then it just sat on the ground screaming at me to give up the goods. ffs. My hand was on its way to my mouth when that large gull put its head between my hand and my face, and plucked my steak bake out of my ninja like starving plumber grip, and with zero noise or warning. These things are out of control and are not scared of humans any more. Genuinely intimidating to be walking around trying to eat something in the open in town tbh.

Seagull thread coming next. One attacked my youngest son, cutting his thumb open, and flew off with an entire fecking BigMac. Same spot in town where these food outlets are, I had one swipe a pastie literally as I went to put it in my mouth.Then a few days back I had my shopping laid out loose in a small trolley. Stopped to talk to my mate in the car park and he said “look out!”. Fecking seagull was flapping his ass off trying to take off with 32 slices of bacon. I ran over and it just stared me out and then gave up. Time for a cull of these ‘flying rats’ ffs. Bastards things are everywhere now.

Hi. You’ll need a sealed and pressurised system for the combi to work for hot water. Just buy cap end when you remove valves / rads, and fill the system back up to normal working pressure. You’ll heard few gurgles for a day or so where the system has to evacuate all the air out, maybe, and you’ll prob need to top up the pressure a little the next day. Then you can leave the rooms capped, decorate, and the do one more drain down and refill with all new valves done in a day. Use a junior hacksaw to cut the pipe under the existing nuts, as the pipe where the olive is will be compressed, and if you remove just the olive and push that into a reducing set, it’ll leak. You need to be on to fresh clear pipe.

Yup. There are thick square washers which are typically used for this job, and you just size them for the threaded bar you’re using. Prob M12 or M14 for this size joist.

If you have 230v power already there, and there’s more than 1 breaker feeding them, then I’d just have all the 110v stuff plugged in as and when required. Leave the trannys outside and just run 110v leads to the point of use. 110v can be extended for miles, 230v not so much. Have one tranny dedicated to lighting, and then invite trades needing 110v to arrange their own portable tranny and that’s usually the end of it. The only time I see these multiple outlet, fixed 110v banks is on commercial sites. I’ve not seen one on a domestic site in ages, and last one I saw was on a huge site. These are mostly for when there’s a huge amount of demo and major construction. We did a basement dig out and underpin last year and for the ground workers we just bought 2 standard portable 110v units which was suffice for the breakers, 3 storeys of temp lighting, power tools etc and all fine; we put a 230v CU in with 3x 32a RCBO’s feeding 2x 13a metal-clad double sockets each and nothing tripped afaik.

It won't hurt that's for sure.

Still lets a lot of light through. Tres bien.

They will likely have unvented hot water cylinders, so the point is moot?

Boatloads of high-value info in there tbf!!

👌. Maybe get some brick acid on the floor to clean off residue before painting?

I think his content got exported, when he took a break from here. I’ve checked and his profile has a link to the off site blog, but it’s a dead end.

The cast one.

Defo need one person at the helm and the others following. One person to take the info, and one person responsible. If not, it’s he’s said / she said, or worse; when the chap you programmed fecks off for a few days leaving Larry and Mo behind, who immediately start doing their own thing.

That’s what I meant. Not saw one before but then thought what a brilliant tool. Only good for ground that’s largely organics though. Otherwise it’s a world of pain and digging with the narrowest bucket you can find.

Some farmers will have a pipe trenching attachment for their daily driver. Can shoot through this job in a day with that tbh.

I wish I could charge for “tools” lol. Could just drop my stuff off at 08:00 and collect again at 16:30, and say “stump up please “ Finally, the perfect career