Nickfromwales

Then I think I can give my 'seal' of approval Bonding the timber down with CT1 or sikaflex will pay dividends IMO, in addition to a couple of mechanical fixings.

I'm with Dave. I just haven't tried any cad types of programs yet and really need to get fluent with at least one ASAP to start to design things a little more professionally than scribbling it down on A4 and taking a snap of it Luckily I have a 12 year old son who will no doubt tut and show me how it works. Once upon a time I was a computer savvy 12 year old, except it was on a BBC micro A upgrade ( the best of the BBC A AND BBC B I'll have you know ). Courtesy of my dad's DNA I grabbed a few spare 256 EPROMs out of knackered fruit machines ( from my uncle's company ) and was right at the forefront of cutting edge technology when I could store a whole game ( yes just one ) on my machine. Then came the DSDD disc drive ( an Opus Challenger 3 in 1 iirc ) which was THE daddy. I missed out on the PC revolution in a big way so any tips on an idiots guide to cad would be gratefully appreciated.

I'm just about getting the angle of your dangle. The tiles will have a silicone 'grout line' at the top yes? E.g. a non-permanent watertight seal for when the boxing in is in place and the room is functional? If so, then your design certainly needs balls of steel and a damn fine tolerance in the construction. Do you propose a 'fault line' through the grout / between tiles through the top and sides at both junctions? I can only see that working if they're colour match siliconed to give the illusion of a continuous tile finish. Got to admire the design and logistics though

What sort of temperatures can you expect the genny cooling system water to produce? Eg I'd have firstly thought about heating a very big primary TS ( adjacent to the genny ) as an additional heat battery, say 1500-2000 litres, then, when the TS is fully charged, would it be better to glean the heat from the TS and export it to the cylinder in the house or would it be better to use a diverter valve to send the heat directly to a secondary TS or UVC ( via a dedicated coil )? They'd have to be hydraulically separated I assume as the external arrangement would need antifreeze / inhibitor etc.

In about 20 years time, when I laugh and pee myself the same time. 18 till I die, me.

2 pints after work. A nice chillie, followed by 2 buds, chimnea lit and radio on until about 20 mins ago. Bliss.

Bingo.

Hence the buffer

PS you have a split load / dual rcd board? Pic please. Dual rcd board will have a big isolator plus 2 big ( 2 gang ) RCD's. The smaller ones are MCB's ( circuit breakers ). RCD's trip on earth fault, MCB's trip on over current ( overload ) or direct short circuit ( live to earth or live to neutral )

Like dave, I suspect ( if it was a shock ) that the earth may be 'floating' and any juice he picked up ( prob circa 70v ) would have needed a nice clean path to earth to affect him. The metal sofa leg may not be a clean path to earth if it is on rubber feet / wooden floor etc . Could it have been static off the sofa and he touched the plate and the sofa the sane time? That would have given a good crack to his toe and finger.

Most pukka static caravan pipework is done that way as it's fit and forget.

You've done some graft in that room, in fairness mate

Less issues with sag, which is VERY problematic with the smaller bore pipes, but the main advantage is a near zero risk of freezing, or issues relating to partial freezing. Another pro is the the inevitable accumulation of 'sludge / slime' in the bottom of the pipe is nowhere near as problematic in the larger pipe as it would be in 1"&1/2 and 1"&1/4 wastes. At the end of the run, instead of a bend going up use a branch and plug the open horizontal end with a rodding eye. That way you can clean / clear it in no time at all.

For the few extra few bucks, run all the exposed pipe work in 110mm, reducing only after the vertical bend.

Fingers inserted firmly into ears.............

With gas available, I have to ask why not fit a combi, and a small buffer to deal with the Ufh? Dhw in abundance, and zero standing losses from the water production.

Not a football loving bone in my body. I'd rather peel my eyes with a potato peeler. Just fitted a bunch of toilets and urinals in a pub refurb and now off to second fix a kitchen. "Show me the money"

Local merchants ? Sound like schoolboys to me. Get the pipes zipped on, get the slab down, let it dry and bamboo til your eyes fall out. Simples. Peter, you're one away from build hub's first warning

Dettol mound and mildew I use, but tbh prob just 50/50 water/bleach is the same thing at a fraction of the price. Spray on, leave for 5 mins, wipe and relax.

Très bien

Us men are tough guys.

Hi and welcome. Pretty much the old crowd here

Yup, very cheap. If these guys do even a half decent job, you've done well.

bacon rolls go down well.....just saying.......

Only thing that would stop me agreeing with Declan is that the repair may then be too proud in one place. I also don't like the risk of catching the scrim tape and lifting the fibres as if / when you do that your screwed.