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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    Good to see you went with the DITRA mat. The job I was on a while back ( oil heating and hot water ) had the builder and his son doing a stand up job of fitting 900x900x20mm porcelain. Cuts were with a wet fed Stihl petrol disc as nothing else would touch it. I took the opportunity to 'test drive' my Rubi 900mm scribe and snap cutter as it states up to 900mm tiles at 20mm thick. Got 850mm of ot to cut straight but the last 50mm curved off. Probably down to the wrong wheel tbh, but not bad going for a £370 tile cutter I thought They laid them perfect and grouted with a like coloured grout. The wife walked in at the end of the day and just said "I don't like the grout colour, can you take it out and use a different colour?". I felt for those guys that day, grouting is a pita, but taking it out is even worse ( without damaging £18k worth of tiles that was ). Id have said "give it a few years luv, the colour will grow on you"
  2. Nickfromwales
    Nothing better than eating your words Got the tee shirt
  3. Nickfromwales
    If im only tiling the shower area I will set the tiles to finish dead on the outside edge of the shower enclosure profile. Then I'll either put a quadrant or a square trim and the plaster / paint gets cut into that. The trim is on display, but the polished chrome ones look part of the shower cubicle, until you get to the point where the cubicle runs out and you have a deficit to the ceiling ( if going full height ). Quite hard to comment further without some pics of / links to your chosen setup . Feel free to post the info if easier ( if your still at the 'hypothetical' stage )
  4. Nickfromwales
    This one? Does away with exposed pipe work aka no freeze risk
  5. Nickfromwales
    The jobs yours Note : When you 'call' a tee fitting you say the straight ends first then the centre Eg a tee that sits in 22mm vertically rising pipe work that has a 15mn spur coming out horizontally would be a 22x22x15 tee Just saying
  6. Nickfromwales
    Ttfn.
  7. Nickfromwales
    With one of these. Don't forget the insert.
  8. Nickfromwales
    Most PRV's are factory set at either 3 or 3.5bar. If you have over that ( static ) then I'd run at around 4 bar as that makes quite a difference to the flow rate. Only noticeable if there is say 5-6 bar incoming.
  9. Nickfromwales
    New tiling thread started to keep this on topic.
  10. Nickfromwales
    @Barney12 Larger tiles won't follow wonky walls. 6 and two 3's tbh as I find it's quicker and better with large format tiles but I've been doing this for around 23 years so I would say that ;). You need to identify the highest point on the wall and make sure there is enough adhesive behind the ones at the lowest point to ensure the wall will be flat. Off to the grindstone now, post some questions and I'll pick this up later
  11. Nickfromwales
    Carrying on from here
  12. Nickfromwales
    A little boxing in at the side of that cloak wc and IMO that's a great place for the stopcock and PRV to reside long term. . Can you take the outside tap from there too? I'd recommend doing that even if it puts the OT in a less convenient position. Reason being is that the tap will have full bore mains BEFORE the PRV, and leave the shower etc less affected from the OT being used. If possible..... 25mm mdpe to 22mm brass stopcock. ( if you use mdpe stopcock you'll need another fitting ( internal reducing set ) to get to copper and you'll not be able to solder right next to it as it's nylon / rubber etc ). 22x22x15mm ( centre ) tee picking up the loo and outside tap. 22mm PRV. 22x22x15 ( centre ) tee for 15mm Drain-off cock. 22x15mm reducer feeding into existing 15mm drop. ( don't forget to get a pressure gauge with the PRV so you can calibrate / reset at maintenance intervals / one-glance check for correct function ).
  13. Nickfromwales
    600x300 wall 450x450 floor The camera adds 10lbs
  14. Nickfromwales
    I'm easily led
  15. Nickfromwales
  16. Nickfromwales
    Both tank fed then No problem there then, and no need for NRV's. Just link out if / when you upgrade to an UVC.
  17. Nickfromwales
    Sds drills aren't supposed to be used for core drilling That's a recipe for a dead drill. Ask me how many I've done in because I was too lazy to set up my diamond drill. . Better still......don't. Why are you using a TCT core drill bit instead of diamond? And @PeterW, that TCT drill 100% requires hammer action, that's how it works. The drill for coring out with a TCT bit needs to be a slow turning low geared drill with a heavy hammer action. A standard sds drill will be too fast and not hard enough on the hammer. Ask your hire centre and they'll recommend a drill to suit. Get extension bars and drill from one side only. If you try and join up from inside out, even with a pilot, you'll be surprised at how far out it'll be. Trying to re-align / ream that right is pure punishment and a royal pita, again, ask me how I know. Fwiw I'd just hire a good diamond ( not TCT core ) bit and accompanying diamond drill set and it'll fly through in one clean operation. If your sds is slipping now, it'll be in the bin at the end of this job.
  18. Nickfromwales
    +1
  19. Nickfromwales
    The vent can be anywhere. That guys just plumbing it in in the knowledge that it'll work perfectly well just with the flush velocity of the the WC's alone. I've run some near perfectly flat, one for over 5 m's straight, and I'm always surprised at how well they still perform in real life. Agree with Tony, that he's not used the space very well and could have got some basic falls in there with ease. Maybe he'll be doing it again if BCO gets a butchers at it . Is this being checked by BC dave ?
  20. Nickfromwales
    Heres the most recent ones. This is is the mirrored cabinet with the chrome set in ready. Ignore the black gaffa tape lol. Next I cut another piece of box section chrome plated trim to the width of the cabinet underside and stuck the led strip to it after soldering the wire on. I applied mitre bond glue and spray to fix the led strip loaded piece of chrome trim into place. This is the view looking upward at it. This is the view front on. I did the same on the top too. 5m of this 50/50 super bright strip on amazon for £13. Fill your boots. And all lit up Looks the bollocks in the dark. The sticky-outy light that came with the cabinet is a marmite fitting tbh, I don't like them. Hey-ho. And behind the free standing bath you can see in the previous images I added these, for that jer-ner-say-kwa. Bingo bango
  21. Nickfromwales
    Pressure and flow are location dependant tbh. You should be 'given' 1 bar static at least, and should receive around 11-12 litres per minute of dynamic flow. You can check the latter with a weir cup
  22. Nickfromwales
    Any chance to get it redirected so you can upsize the incoming cold mains to 22mm?
  23. Nickfromwales
    Good point, a lot of failure is down to shite in the valve. The strange part is that the stainless gauze filter is on the incoming side normally so doesn't usually allow over pressure events, just poor flow / low pressure. You really shouldn't fit any bypass as that will allow full range pressure to get to sensitive equipment. We all know that 'temporarily fitted measures' always end up never getting changed to the way they should so I'd advise against that tbh. All relief valves will have installation practices clearly stated, as in "thoroughly purge all primary pipework prior to commissioning the valve" etc etc. That takes care of any lumps of solder, flux etc, and then the integral stainless gauze filter in the PRV takes care of any subsequent crap. Annual cleaning of the filter and checking of the set / operating / actual pressure is also paramount. On the PRV's I always fit a primary and secondary pressure gauge so I can see the incoming and secondary pressure differences. If they both match, your in need of maintenance ( or your pressure is lower than the set value of the valve ).
  24. Nickfromwales
    They had 'top plumbers' fit the original UVC . Then it went pop in the upstairs airing cupboard. Oopsy.
  25. Nickfromwales
    Replaced an UVC in a £1M house, and the guy said the pressure was high. I out my gauge on the outside tap and it went to 10bar and the needle bent so badly I had to bin it. Surveying the static cold mains pressure is absolutely critical and should never be overlooked.
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