Nickfromwales

You'll see the edges through the glass. Can it be viewed from the left of your drawing? Id use a chrome / stainless U channel to take the return against the glass.

And if the shit hits the fan use this stuff.

Can't you create a metal upstand in front of the glass and bond the PB to that so its isolated from movement. Allow 3-4mm gap and job done. .

It's not that you didn't have enough, you just can't undo it even a 1/4 turn without having to re-ptfe and start again . Dont go nuts with the ptfe vs the last lot or you'll end up not getting any to go in.

Any lube will do tbh. As above, silicone grease does a top job too and I'll use that myself if I've run out of / can't find my Rocol. .

On my retrofits ( another 3 in the bag this week ) I always dab as normal but then go around the foot and head with high expansion foam, and loads of it. The head so convection heat travel is arrested, and the foot to help with the previous but to also beef the boards up a bit for skirting / knock-ability.

Adjust the PRedV with the water flowing. . Turn a tap on very slowly ( flowing slowly ) and then the pressure will stay up and you'll be able to adjust in real time. Turn the tap off after each adjustment to then get the set static pressure. Adjust accordingly, repeating as necessary. Pressure on the street will rise and fall with neighbourhood occupancy so you'll see less morning and late afternoon / evening than say 10:30 or 22:30.

I feel like i don't know you anymore ?

Aye. Not as grainy as the white iirc. Just in case you've overlooked it, I use Rocol. Just in case.

I never use setting compounds. With the possibility of having to go back and re-jig things ( ) then you deffo don't want a setting compound. Just saying .

The Rocol does say it's for gas, but I've used it for everything for 15+ years and don't use anything else ( other than SlikTite for oil ). Loosen everything compression and use this throughout. Edit to add : Hemp is used for coarse threads where a gap filling medium is required.

This stuff is the dogs. Doesn't go hard like boss white does Most P merchants stock it.

The squeaking is brass on brass where you haven't lubricated the metal parts with jointing compound. . Have I taught you nothing? Strip it down, apply a bit of compound to the mdpe pipe where the olive is now captive, a bit above and a bit below and a smear around the olive. Fill the first three valleys of the male thread of the stopcock with same compound and smear, literally a smear, on the face the olive mates to. Clean any excess from the internal bore so nothing can wash into the PRedV and make it all back up. The brass is binding and stopping you gaining the final number of rotations to fully squeeze the olive tight. Use the force, Luke.

Yup. Common fault. Mine does the same. I just rest it against the floor and push it back straight, it will go. . Have you done your online registration for the 3-year warranty? Mines been repaired about once each year ( completely free no quibble ) but mine gets an absolute hammering in fairness.

Thanks for all the varied info. All good stuff.

Honesty is the best policy The only thing that will let you down is that rubber seal onto the compression tee. I had a few let me down in my 'early years' and don't risk it anymore.

You should have a flat faced copper to iron ( 15x1/2 male ) and the female end of the flexi turns onto that. Did you misinterpret my drawing or did you just freestyle it ? The nut and olive side of the flexi should have been teed into the vertical drop and made off to copper pipe leaving the flexi end to go straight onto the cistern inlet / stem. I leave you alone for 5 minutes..........

A buffer is basically a wet capacitor that acts as a sponge which absorbs energy and smooths out the delivery. Heating goes via that so, for eg, Ufh can draw lower amounts of heat than the heat source can provide ( lowest modulation / temp setting etc ) when the house is up to 'operating' temperature. It is a TS in essence, but we normally name the two differently when more than one application is required from said vessel. Eg when you add another coil for dhw production you'd typically then not refer to it as a buffer as it's not just a dumb vessel anymore.

Isn't the slab an emitter not a storage device?

Says carpets, curtains and duvets don't apply. Does a LL become liable if the tenant brings non-compliant furniture in? That must be difficult to enforce unless the LL inspects regularly. I'll pass this info on, thanks.

Indeed. Most thermostatic shower manufacturers will list the temp difference 'ratios' in the MI's.

That's not what was in my uber crap drawing . The flexi going straight onto the compression fitting isn't cricket I'm afraid. Is this a temporary arrangement until the framed WC goes in ?

You call it boring stuff, I call it invaluable. Didnt know about that so I'll pass that on. Thanks. What about the carpets ?( as I'm doing the whole 9 yards, less furniture and soft furnishings )

Yup. They wavered at first with the umms and ahhs, I dropped some build hub recently inherited 'terminology' on them and next thing you know, it's chips and gravy. Thats how we roll. "Free boilers for everyone *" * you must be accompanied by both sets of living great grandparents to qualify for a free boiler *