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Nickfromwales

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  1. Nickfromwales
    You mean a corner branch ? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/111911500778?_mwBanner=1
  2. Nickfromwales
    Use Meths after the multisolve. M-S seems to leave a little residue sometimes . Oh, and I also use mitre bond on the back of the LED strips too, just a dot every 25mm or so. The adhesive strip / backing holds it in place long enough for you to smooth it down and activate the glue with the spray activator.
  3. Nickfromwales
    1 or 2mm plastic packer between them and mitre bond together.
  4. Nickfromwales
    PS, the thicker the better. Can you squeeze 30mm in? Check with front and back / French doors which open in to the house.
  5. Nickfromwales
    Yes. The generic function is the same, just check which has the best insulation value tbh. Disconnecting thermally from the slab will help a lot so I'd certainly consider it as a favoured option. Remember the tile will still have a natural chill to it, even with the ~25mm insulation, but it'll be far better than without. Id still consider UTH in the room with the quartz, but go for a 50w perm2 kit so it's just a very low background heat. Another advantage of the insulation boards will be reduced heat loss, cheaper running costs, and a much faster response / recovery time ( so you can literally turn it on / off with use rather than leave it low throughout the occupied day ).
  6. Nickfromwales
    Fresh bit of ply with hole in the right place, and the stud milled / chiselled out accessingly. "Don't make me come down there" ?
  7. Nickfromwales
    ? Mill the wood out.
  8. Nickfromwales
    Can you lose 30mm of head height / increased floor height. I'd heartily recommend putting at least a 25mm insulation backer board over the concrete, before the tiles and adhesive. Why pay to heat a floor forever when you can pay once to insulate and reduce the discomfort of the tiles underfoot, once and for all? Id REALLY look at negating the UTH ( under tile heating ) if at all possible.
  9. Nickfromwales
    Ok, explain why the conduit is 'immovable' ? Id chew my right arm off to get rid of that 16mm rip.
  10. Nickfromwales
    The trims get sikaflex'd to the tile and mitre bonded together. To stop them 'flapping', the reverse gets bonded to the rear of the alu LED profile. . Bomb-chuffin'-proof. Go to doctor. ?? Oh, and go for a 10mm tile trim as you'll need some void for whatever adhesive you use.
  11. Nickfromwales
    ?
  12. Nickfromwales
    Yup So the tile is behind / under it. Better way to seal it all too
  13. Nickfromwales
    Now THOSE are what you call MATES .
  14. Nickfromwales
    Close...... Now how about getting the underhang extended down the thickness of the tile so the strip doesn't leave the leading edge of the cut exposed ? Shame, so close to me not criticising it
  15. Nickfromwales
    Aka "the good old days" FYI, I don't need glasses yet, just MUCH longer arms.
  16. Nickfromwales
    Who designed / supplied / fitted your kitchen, if you don't mind me asking ?
  17. Nickfromwales
    You should be Wrens head of design. That looks more sensible than the last £11k effort they scraped together .
  18. Nickfromwales
    Wait until you have to carry it somewhere. ? Shes a beast ? but it's the bollocks.
  19. Nickfromwales
    Excerpt: SOIL AND VENT Ring seal soil and vent fittings to BS 4514. 110mm sizes to EN 1329-1. PVC-U. The nominal pipe diameters refer to the outside diameter of the pipe. Imperial/metric equivalents:3"/82mm and 4"/110mm. ?
  20. Nickfromwales
    Most likely. 100mm is most often found in ventilation, with 110mm being something totally different and best to avoid confusion ( particularly when ordering ). Typical 'wall' thickness for 110mm stuff is circa 3mm so 100+3+3mm. That 106mm if your not sure
  21. Nickfromwales
    A domestic shower can't be terminated to a non-vented outlet ( such as a tap ) It uses the open outlet do deal with expansion. The Steibel units seem the obvious choice, and with such low demand I'd make sure I bought the modulating one. Remember that will need a chunky supply cable ( 6mm t+e minimum but 10mm best if the run is long ) and a local isolation switch. The difference between a water heater and an instantaneous water heater is one stores heated water in varying sizes ( volume ) and the others are close to zero waste as they heat only the water you use ( like an electric shower does ). Site the heater between the two draw off points if possible to minimise the runs to each outlet.
  22. Nickfromwales
    And cheaper
  23. Nickfromwales
    Good to see you taking the shortest route to completing the bathroom
  24. Nickfromwales
    Yes. Dewalt call it a "troughing guide". Or was it the salesman? Can't recall now...... 4 minutes in ??
  25. Nickfromwales
    A good practice, I've found, is to get a line marker spray-paint and mark out the size and shape of the kitchen units. This is particularly handy when you have an island or complex shape so you can check for free flowing circulation space between the cooker, sink and fridge by walking the 'room' to see how well it works. Dont forget your cat 6 and coax cable if your planning a TV in there, and remember to plan early for the extraction ducting if installing one in addition to the mvhr.
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