Nickfromwales

Roberts your mothers brother ? ?

Nice. . Thats one of the few pans I've seen with a fully open bottom underside. A previous Duravit one I fitted had long 19mm drive bolts that came down at right angle to horizontal, finishing just out of view at the bottom of the pan. They tightened upwards into angled slots cut into the thick metal torpedos that wound onto the metal studs ( threaded bars which screw into the frame and get left sticking out prior to offering the pan on ). The torpedos had an elongated angled slot cut into them, so as you tightened the bolt they forced themselves upwards and into the slot. As the slot was angled and elongated the force of the bolt tightening turned into movement, pulling the bolt deeper into the slot, thus moving the pan closer to the wall / frame until tight. If you used all the slot and didn't get a snug fit you simply took the pan back off and turned the torpedo onto the threaded bars another one or two turns and retried. An excellent design IMO, far better than the side fixed types which use a big Allen key, plus, no horrible holes to fit equally ill-fitting and horrible cover caps into. @Onoff, do your bolts simply pass through the pan and then you have nylon washes ( to separate porcelain from metal ), metal washers ( to stop the metal nuts turning and chewing through the nylon ones ), and BFO nuts which get tightened directly? If so, that ratchet spanner must have a very good ratchet with a small degree of movement ! Don't forget to wrap some cardboard around the spanner, to stop it chipping the pan if it slips .

Pie? Where? ?

This is @Tennentslager's BBQ. If he says it's good sport then I say let it roll. Too dark for a photo of #shed1, so I'll update tomorrow. #shed2 aka the man-shed is WiP ?. "Keep the faith Nick, keep the faith", ( utters to himself sadly ? ).

Son of a .........

Probably best to highlight the fact that you do, indeed, have multiple accumulators in this scenario, ( to compliment / tame your borehole water supply ), so that anyone reading this can gauge their response / thoughts about whether one would be necessary for eg a property 'suffering' from possible constraints associated with having a basic domestic cold mains supply which is supplying said house ( with a softener ). Surveying for an accumulator requires static and dynamic pressure readings at various times of the day, eg when the network is under strain vs when it's relaxed, in order to ascertain if such a medium is required or not. Adding together the combined resistances of the connected equipment, after the stopcock, is where this discussion gains its merit as most won't give this the thought that it's due when considering a system. Worse than that, they may well simply take advice from their chosen plumbing contractor who, for the lack of knowing differently, may just carry on as they did with the last job, not paying sufficient attention / consideration to the current remit. An entire subject of its own IMO, and well worth the effort and input of this exchange. .

As I live in ( sunny ? ) Wales, ill admit to having fitted only one or two water softeners. In the most recent install I fitted a 300 litre accumulator, post softener, so I can't document or comment on the individual performance of the softener ( as a stand alone item ) I'm afraid. However. This does form a good exchange, adding another important consideration for 'ye' of hard water' when designing the DCW system, ( the system which also will end up providing the energy required to propel your DHW out of the outlets ), as losses from such resistances created by such additional / peripheral equipment may easily be overlooked when deciding whether an accumulator is required or not.

That's the norm. All the ones I've bought ( even from different suppliers / makes ) have all come 'uk ready'.

@Onoff I'll pm you my postcode and you will get my terms ?

Forget the bedrooms, get a 65" 4K TV, 3 rows of seats and a pool table. . Oh, and a beer fridge. ?? Great work by the chippys, nice roof.

Clocks ticking mate

Quite a bit on here

They won't hold back a 'traffic jam', so don't assume so. They're just for protecting the seals during installation times, ( I'd be more worried about them breaking down with UV Ray's ).

It's a wet room . He can pee anywhere he wants.

425 to the bit your arse hits .

I tend to put the seat level at 425mm. When I demonstrate the slightly higher ( referred to as 'comfort' ) height most older customers say it's much more forgiving. I would choose the 420mm option every day, regardless, and don't like a low toilet. Kids can use the chuck-away 'pee step' when their little legs don't reach, but...... "a loo is for life, not just for Xmas"

Sometimes I do wonder. F**k it, it's Friday after all. ???

It's static load, not dynamic TBH, and I've seen baths in terraced houses on 7x2" timbers half rotten and they're still there. Dont over engineer this unless your centre of the house mid span, in which case ( for a new build ) your architect should have designed this issue out. If not them, then certainly your builder / TF company ( whilst doing the structural engineering calcs ).

Right-o, shall I just rename the thread or what?!? Pmsl Can we summarise please?

Plant / grow a bloody big tree a short distance from the house?

Just have them put a disconnection point ( DP ) at the start of the duct and connect a temp cable to it. You can leave a drop wire on the fence or even along the ground as it's tough as old boots. Ask them for a master outlet and just cut some holes in a Tupperware box so it stays dry, if you leave it outside of course. Do you intend to have a site office / shed / other?

Simple solution TBH. We all just pile over to @readiescards house and run his batteries flat.

?. My talent is wasted. Yes, I'll find the thread discussing this and post it later. And DONT call me Shirley. Thank crunchie it's Friday

I'm reserving my copy now

I'd butter it up with silkabond both sides and bingo it'll be bombproof. ?✌️️