Nickfromwales

There is not much to dislike about the SAPV's but just look at the useful capacity if you have high DHW requirements / multiple bathrooms. I haven't yet dipped my toe into exactly how these units work, so I can't respond regarding how quickly they recover from part or full depletion, but that would be my biggest concern. Time for a chat with the tech guys at SA me thinks . Anyone have any downloads to share?

Absolutely. Not done "twice" but two separate applications, each done once. A lot of plumbers haven't got a clue about sealing a shower screen. I've seen it time and time again. The person who fitted this did it badly, so at the very least you don't want them back. Just makes you wonder how many ticking time bombs this guy has left in his wake .

"Silicone the outside edges only". I'd say hold back 25% retainer, at least the cost of a new screen and one days labour for a new fitter to come out independently ( worst case scenario ). Yes, the screen needs to come off. No argument there sorry. Depending upon the new fitter, the wall channel can stay on and the retro application of fundamental sealant at the bath / tile junction could be done without further damage / dismantling. Clear CT1 now needs to be used NOT silicone, as the surfaces will not be dry enough for silicone to adhere. CT1 MultiSolve spray will emulsify any silicone residue ( after the majority has been mechanically removed ) so the screen can be cleaned it's just how much silicone have they squirted in and where ? As some quite horrendous damage can occur here, over an extended period of time, I would insist that a bathroom fitter be introduced to resolve the problem properly. Do you know if the bath was sealed along its edges, back to the walls, prior to tiling?

Ideal logic plus with 7 year warranty is a good rental boiler. My mates fitted scores without issue or recall. Its also a 'micro-combi' so smaller box.

Download the MI's from your chosen boiler manufacturer and it'll tell you to the mm

NOT if it directly contradicts the manufacturers instructions .

Gas cannot go in an unventilated void unless it is entirely encapsulated in, for eg, dot and dab / bonding compound / similar. The pipe would need taping / sleeving to protect it from any wet product, to prevent corrosion. I would recommend taking the gas pipe immediately up to the first floor and running it through the joist space where no such constraint exists. Surface mounted and ( Talon ) trunked for the verticals is easiest. Is the boiler ground or first floor? I'd go externally if ground floor.

With a 10-30 year plan, I'd get the fundamentals sorted first tbh. Plumbing and electrics are fundamental IMO, and cosmetics can be retrospectIvely amended with ease, and little disruption, along the way. Get the floor void clear and cover it over, why create extra expense engineering future proof solutions to a problem you can swiftly neutralise now ? Now is your most economical opportunity to address these items, so better to spend once now than spend 3-fold later ( and worse if you have to remove a paying tenant to do so ).

Again, that's a pin gun not a brad nailer . 18g nails are extremely fine and great for hardwood and oak etc, but for a good purchase on softwood / MDF I wouldn't go for anything other than 16g. If your fixing fire doors then I doubt pins alone would suffice as the lining is subject to 30 or 60 minute rating too. Pins would probably suffice if your routinely glueing the full length of the material, but they are very fine with very little 'head'.

Cut the excess threads etc off the tank connector and Sikaflex it on. Then, zero projection into the cistern? The flush mechanism only affixes to the front of the opening iirc?

Good luck for the remainder of your efforts. Don't get lazy, and keep all your crap out of the builders way. I hate when people get in around me tbh, but you've had no choice so don't 'move into' unfinished spaces, just stick to the bedrooms and you'll keep momentum to the maximum . Keep pushing and driving so it doesn't stall .

Ah, just confirmed my fears by checking the pics. The last one clearly shows the gap behind / under the wall tiles, void of any sealant. That should have been fundementally sealed prior to tiling, which it's clear now has not been done. Guilty as charged edit to add : this is common tbh, and I see it all the time. I bet this was all in the installation instructions that came with the screen too .

Thanks. No.1 schoolboy error here . Absolutely NO sealant whatsoever should be on the inside of the cubicle / screen. What happens is the water sprays onto the tiles and vertical wall channels and capillary action sucks water into the slight gap ( where the screen profile pushes into the wall profile ), and the water then heads down. When it gets to the bottom, the idea is that it can freely flow out under the profile ( where your fitter has sealed horizontally inside ) and onto the inside edge of the bath, and find its own way to the drain. Because your installer has not observed this critical criteria you now have water filling up inside the chrome profiles, and it's finding any way out it can eg through the gaps your first pic denotes, and the same gaps inside. This screen needs to be removed from the bath, just the screen, and then cleaned and refitted less the excess / incorrectly appid sealant. You will not cure this if you try and cut corners sorry. Same for the sealant at the bottom of the wall channel. I will also bet my left nut that they also haven't put a bead of silicone across the bath / tile junction prior to the wall profile being fitted. That will promote a different, less obvious leak, where the water that collects at the bottom of the two profiles also then finds its way between the bath and the tiles and starts to cause some serious damp / leak issues with the wall and floors, which you'll be blissfully unaware of as it'll be behind the bath panel. Get your fitter back, and tell him to switch his phone off.

Wedi tend to be much thicker, so aren't even a contender for houses with posi / engineered beams. Impey are typically only 22mm so are far more favourable, but yes, not cheap. Diamond seem very good value for money, and I've fitted one and can report that they're nice bits of kit. Choose a better waste than the standard one though as its a little commercial looking IMO. Note the offset waste position which allows you to rotate the tray through 180o and that's usually enough to miss any joists.

Continue......

Also helps protect the wire a bit during the tile laying process.

Can we have a pic of the opposite side ( inside ) please? And a slightly zoomed out pic of the above. Is this a hinged panel, or fixed?

FFX seem competitive 16g edited to add : air is far more pleasant to use IMO.

And it fires sewing needles ( 18g not 16g ) so no good for second fix.

For second fix carpentry, This nice little compressor & This 16g Brad ( second fix ) nailer would serve you well.

Spend a few hundred, get the heating inboard, run a new cold mains under the floor and forget the void exists . The gas pipe being 'maintained' is just not going to happen TBH, and if it ever died you'd just find the pipe at the footings and bring it up into an externally mounted meter box. ( why not do that now, and run a fresh gas pipe out, first as last ( not knowing how long your retaining the property of course )).

Yup. Nope

No, TBH. The board needs to be continuous or you'll gets problems. Cant you just rip full lengths of 4 or 6mm ply and fully clad each stud?

Don't get camera shy .

It's giving me a headache just thinking about what a pita this must be. .