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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    Ok, admittedly don't use osb so can't vouch for how it 'feels', so thanks for the nudge. . I just don't like the way screws behave when driving them into osb so I've never considered it a contender for tiled floors as the screw purchase is of paramount importance afaic. Others have stated that builders have just laid the boards on glue, but how can they stop them lifting as the glue foams and cures ? The difference between 22mm and 18mm is immensely apparent when waking around a room with 600mm centres, so my advice is go for 22mm and sleep well. ? Edited to add : "Not lost a patient yet", but been to loads of others where I've had to rip it all out, beef up the floors and redo it all .
  2. Nickfromwales
    What about the thermistor that's in with my multimeter for the temp range? Can I nick that and use it just to save any delays? If I can that would be the jam in my jelly roll .
  3. Nickfromwales
    Really helpful. Cheers. So the film one, given its a 22mm SPEEDFIT pipe, could be literally wound on with a gallon of pvc tape. ?
  4. Nickfromwales
    All I can say is it's cheaper to buy thicker wood now than lift a floor later . It's not a place to economise imo, but I do go overboard TBH as it's my business on the line.
  5. Nickfromwales
    Oh, and the holes in the tray get covered by the Impey membrane supplied in the matching tanking kit.
  6. Nickfromwales
    Current job has existing 22mm P5. As it's got ( rather poorly fitted ) I-beams at 600mm centre I've decided to use 22mm P5 plus 9mm ply as the binder. Pic of former sat on the floor so I could mark the plywood support sections to cut out the linear waste footprint. Pic of the local support plywood. The 40x40mm battens were used to fit engineered, full depth noggins out of 18mm ply ( made by me bespoke to suit ) as the original builders thought that noggins were unnecessary Pic of the PU glue which I smothered everything with prior to fitting a tray sized piece of 9mm ply down and screwing on 100mm centres. Then the tray went down with Sikaflex EBT and screwed through the pre marked fixing locations on the tray. Zoom in and you'll see the circles where you drill through the grp to create screw holes. A pic of the tray 9mm proud of the new P5 floor, which will be ply'd next to create a flush floor. The screws hold the tray down whilst the SFlex goes off, then one at a time I'll remove each screw, countersink it, pump the hole full of SFlex and send the screw back in snug, not too tight.
  7. Nickfromwales
    Only if the joists are at 400mm centres . If they're 600mm centres then you need 22mm deck min.
  8. Nickfromwales
    Oh, as I need to mount the thermistor like yesterday, can anyone tell me the specifics of the supplied thermistor so I can go grab one now from Napkin ( @Temp PMSL lol. ) aka Maplin ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    Thanks all. . For the price, you can't go wrong. Its a bit over complicated for what I need but if it's only set it up once and forget then happy days. Questions... @Onoff. The one you linked is the most simple and 'fit for purpose', just 3 times the price of the one @dpmiller linked. Does anyone know how these two items will respond to a power cut? My fear is the cheaper eBay one may need buttons pressing for it to go back into temp sensing 'mode' which will be a right pita. Anyone able to confirm / deny with either unit please? This will be in an enclosure in kick space in the walk in wardrobe, so not something I want the customer to have to do anything with ( ideally ). Cheers.
  10. Nickfromwales
    I think it would also have been inadequate ventilation and water leaking in, trickle charging the moisture content ? Modern tanking scenarios are not very dissimilar TBH just you wouldn't penetrate the barrier and you'd avoid wood.
  11. Nickfromwales
    Yup. Looks like a manufacturing defect. . Go get a new one ?
  12. Nickfromwales
    Stunning ??
  13. Nickfromwales
    Near passive standards then .
  14. Nickfromwales
    Ok. I tried a pipe stat on the 22mm hot water supply to the current bathroom job. Idea being it was a quick and basic means of detecting heat ( eg someone running the bath / shower / basin ) so that would bring on the large mirror demister pad. Crap hysteresis and pretty unreliable. Question.... How much additional electronics are involved to just make the cable off to a thermistor instead and have that operate a solid state relay / similar to control the demister ? Can I get a 230v thermistor to save going low voltage DC control and the associated electronics etc as this needs to be left behind for the customer and not rocket science to repair / maintain ? Thanks in advance.
  15. Nickfromwales
    Oi! I ask the stupid questions around here, OK ✊
  16. Nickfromwales
    Not unless you want them to fall off . You can tile onto ply, but I use cheapo silicone NOT tile adhesive. Why chipboard? ??
  17. Nickfromwales
    Buying tools is the one thing I can allays justify as they'll make me money. Also, having the right, and good quality tools, makes me work quicker, so a no brainer. Ive used my mates £200 chopsaw and its dire, compared to my £630 beast. Double compound means I'm not having to feed the wood in in any particular orientation too, so speeds up the cutting process. Same applies across the board, even down to the humble hammer . Go buy it ?
  18. Nickfromwales
    Unless there's an environment where unsupervised children, infirm or elderly folk use the outlets, there is no real requirement for thermostatically controlled outlets. Rentals should have a thermostatic shower if there is an instantaneous water heater ( like a combi for eg ). I have a 3-way thermostatic valve that does my bath filler / shower rose / shower handset, so they're covered, and I fitted a separate TMV under my combi to supply temp controlled hot water to the basins ( x2 ). Even though they are mixer basin taps it's just so much safer, and easier to control. Simply flick the tap to the hot position and turn on full to get the same flow & temp every time. No faffing with hot and cold taps to get a decent temp as that would just bug me, plus my TMV was less than £20 delivered off eBay. ? With an UVC you typically run direct with no 'front of house' TMV at the cylinder, but a TS needs one as the stored ( set ) temp is way higher than with an UVC.
  19. Nickfromwales
    Yes. It's part of the anti-scald mechanism that a TMV provides. Flow may speed up / slow down etc but the temp will remain virtually the same until the supplies go beyond the operating requirements, at which point some will stop or run cold ( but never got beyond the set temp ).
  20. Nickfromwales
    Im on it like a tramp on a kebab. .
  21. Nickfromwales
    Nope. It uses the existing pressure, rather than 'sucks' like a thirsty kid on a milkshake as a pump does. . Link That's free if you think what you were going to chuck down the drain with the pumped option . It's also a fantastic performing shower which will have spares available for the next 15-20 years as Mira have great after sales ?
  22. Nickfromwales
    T-ing out off the existing pipe will cause negative pressure in the household pipework, so when the pump kicks in, and water taking the path of least resistance, anyone opening a tap nearby will hear air getting sucked into the tap instead of water coming out Id just buy a very good quality Mira Exel or similar, which will operate well on very low pressure but with ADEQUATE flow, for the interim. That shower then migrates to the new bathroom as it'll cope with both low and the new high pressure system. Spend on the expensive shower and get the pump idea out of your mind, and wallet ?
  23. Nickfromwales
    Looks like trapped moisture in the wall or unsuitable paint. Do you know if the plaster was allowed to fully dry prior to painting, and what paint was used?
  24. Nickfromwales
  25. Nickfromwales
    What I said above ? The tray stays down, For clarity, the trap body is the part that is bonded to the underside of the tray, so cannot be removed from above as it's physically bigger than the waste hole in the tray . The trap 'bucket' is the removable part ( see images above ) which gives access to the trap body and outlet for deep cleaning . If you see the MIs they state that the trap must be mechanically supported / fixed, so as to be load bearing should anyone put their entire body weight on one foot whilst standing directly onto the trap. If you fit the tray according to the MIs then your latter proposal won't work. Also, backfilling with foam is actually stated in the MIs as a big no-no . Vermin love to nibble through foam and make snug little homes in it . Keeps them nice and warm
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