Nickfromwales

Deliciously simple, but this has to always be the absolute last resort. I don't make the man-rules, but I do wish I made headache tablets.

£35 if you buy my welsh crude, and can accept the smell of cod coming from it...........

Wise words, a lot of people forget.

Extend the trough into a deeper sump, and whack some pumps in!?! We've been self-building for a long time people........ You need a rocket firing up the back end Get stuck in and crack on; there's no free lunches, and the sooner you're not sat in the wings 'considering things' the sooner you'll be living in it

They’re more likely to run out of things to fire at ‘the enemy’, at the rate that they’re going through munitions.

I hope nobody goes and buys up all the loo rolls again……

@Nestor fyi I’ve asked, and the aeration is defo 34/7/365, and the IPS pumps out effluent based on the levels in the tank. So the question is, does the PCB control the effluent pumping to keep the levels properly managed. If so, this can’t be bypassed and needs fixing asap. If it’s been full of snow which then melted then I assume the PCB is a write off. Time to fit a new PCB and screw the cover on properly / provide better cover from the weather, and let it do its thing.

Why not run for 15 mins every hour or 30 mins every other hour etc?

You and these valves need to get a room pal !

That particular one is a KORE raft foundation system, so yes, it's a big 'L'-shaped profile so cannot 'float' or detach. Your detail is perfectly 'doable' with the correct fixings and methodology to keep the insulation in place. Looking again at your detail, why the 300mm slab design with UFH in screed over just 50mm of insulation? Who's design is this, and what is the rationale for the spec?

“Malleability”. Got this drummed into me as an apprentice electrician.

I’d always put the volumiser on the flow with a heat pump, but if this can be chopped to minimise work and needs to stay on the return I doubt it’s a huge issue.

People look at me daft when I say “yes I can do a cheaper job for cash, which bits would you like me to omit?”. They say “none!”, and I say here’s my invoice. Cough up.

It’s down to geotechnical surveys and input from an SE. Trying to short cut and ask questions like this here are (sorry) a total waste of your time, and nothing typed here will be of any value or use whatsoever as none relate to your site You can bite the bullet now, and do the geotechnical and grounds conditions surveying, test pits and percolation testing etc done, as you’ll need these to decide on what type of foundation is required regardless, as "feasibility". Also, this will discount the possibility of having to do a piled foundation, in the worst case. With a good engineer anything’s possible, but more info would be needed about where the 4m deep manhole gets its input, from the new house, as you may need to alter this to become a proper backdrop chamber (with such huge inverts).

There’s a piezo buzzer / sounder on the PCB, the white circular gadget, so it’s defo got alarm indication for some sort of warning when something goes wrong, the manufacturers literature will tell you what this is and then you decide your appetite for risk if you delete it. I doubt if it being on constant makes any sense whatsoever, and personally I think that would decrease longevity. @Russell griffiths, how often does yours go on / off and how long is the pump running each time? Do you know what the alarm indicates?

Looks like you’re going to need a new PCB (the main control board). You could try removing it and putting it over a small heater for 24hrs to see if it drives the moisture out. If the pump is 230v you can hook it up to a standard plug in timer for now and just run it manually, whilst trying to dry the PCB out.

It’s about supporting statements, and yes it’s the BCO who decides, but if you approach them with nothing then you’ll just get the knee-jerk FO. Phone calls and emails cost nothing, but hopefully sense will now prevail for the current client with so much positive supporting feedback, from both the council and the fire brigade. Just wondering what the odds are, of the bins catching fire on bin day lol.

The entire 2 storey outer leaf of the MBC TF twin wall system sits on it (the EPS upstand), and it's rated to also take the feck knows how many kg/m2 of cement board + adhesive + 30mm thick stone slips that hang of that outer leaf.

Will the EPS that's holding the whole house up compress? Erm, "no". Once the weight of the static (not dynamic) load of the window / door is spread out over the 3/4/5m lengths, and is sat onto ridiculously strong CF200, then you can literally park a car (or a window) on it. Bear in mind it is higher load capacity EPS too, not the stuff that stops your new washing machine getting damaged in the delivery truck. If both Norrsken and MBC are doing this routinely, I think the pill of chill can be taken. As principal consultant I have to go to actual peoples actual builds, and actually do these things. I sleep well, and my phone stays quiet at night, which comes from nearly a decade of working with high-end fenestration and all types of foundations and insulation systems. Nobody's rung me up to say they've had an issue.........yet. I am quite meticulous in the execution and methodology of these installs, (batshit crazy levels of OCD actually), so it is accepted that a crap fitter using the same materials would have a poor outcome with reduced longevity. Do the job right, do it once.

Can't get a labourer for less than £140-£160 in the land of the English. Last time I QS'd a job (very) near London, some were advising to allow £600 a day (landed) for a sparky!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Got to pay to sharpen their tools and all sorts

As long as its anti-tear, yes. This is better stuff, and can be delivered. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG10T.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=&placement=&kw=&network=x&matchtype=&ad_type=pla&product_id=BG10T&product_partition_id=&campaign=shopping_excluded&version=finalurl_v3&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17412537060&gbraid=0AAAAAD-6GhlJa-VEmBUZA3QiMsZIdbAub&gclid=Cj0KCQiAk6rNBhCxARIsAN5mQLsb5uQjxT58j8lVt6RN3m5ce5vT9k99qOyPwbiZavHMyGxo9IJ4eRsaAiHjEALw_wcB

Sensible deviations should be allowed, per case, with the applicant paying the admin fees to review and resolve each case. Wheelie bins in a nice store at the head of the access to a property should be acceptable, vs ugly rows of bins being left permanently on display (to the detriment of the area). Homeowner can then transport refuse to the bin store at their inconvenience. On bin days you pull the bins out of the store to the kerbside. Simples. "Nick for president!!!!" I suggested a used golf buggy to my current client, with a trailer, for doing the 200m 'refuse runs'. Fleas come with the dog, with adverse sites, but the owner can decide if they are happy to accept the compromise and inconvenience (or build somewhere else!).

For a current new build I'm consulting on, 200m driveway, the fire brigade said that they would simply lay down hoses to go up the drive, and reach the nearest hydrant in the lane. They are willing to provide a supporting statement, agreeing that the presence of an "Automatic Fire Suppression System" (Mist or sprinklers, mist in this case) mitigates the majority of their concerns. The client suggested a 45,000L holding pond, or even paying to extend the hydrant feed in the street onto their property (at cost) and the fire brigade remained pragmatic and agreed that simply laying out hoses would be 'the norm'; plus they'd likely dispatch a water bowser to arrive as a failsafe anyways. Start talking to these people and you may be pleasantly surprised.

Go for a mist system. Speak to the council and they're usually amenable, and will provide a solution for the bins.

100mm is fine, as long as what it's on is not crumbling etc.