Nickfromwales

About £1.5k for the boiler and about £1-1.2k on the TS depending on spec. With pumps and valves etc you'll buy it all for change of £3k most probably.

Hi Fredd. Speed building to maximise profit, by turning out houses built to current regs ( or usually worse ) isn't really the ethos of this forum. Typically I'd expect someone like yourself to have joined in order to compare performance / build quality and ASK for figures on which to base your arguments for either method. Here folks have designed, built and are now living in their homes, and have been kind enough to give a warts-n-all account of how things did or didn't work out. Best of all though are the performance figures, some of which are incredible. Could you heat any of your builds with a hairdryer ? Folk here could. Not fiction or speculation.....Fact. Chucking up an EPC cert isnt really good enough for your particular argument to be taken seriously TBH. EPCs are based on assumptions. Most 'express' builds don't get properly inspected mid build and often are found to have had poorer quality insulation and airtightness, mostly due to contractors being on, or given, tight budgets. Self builders WANT a thorough inspection, WANT to pay for superior work quality ( and ethics ), rather than maximise profit and focus on turnaround times. For this forum, we're apples and your oranges I'm afraid. Stick around and have a read of a few of the blogs. I'm an old dog that's learned a few new tricks here .

Grant boiler is fine, they're what I recommend. The size needs to be spot on, and 46kw in a system boiler would do a small nursing home. 26kw tops for a regular domestic dwelling, and deffo a TS not an UVC. Heat needs to be pulsed into the house, rather than trickle in as heat is consumed, plus you can then dictate the flow and return temp then too ( to maximise condensing ) when you pulse the heat in. Heating and DHW come direct from the TS, and the boiler goes direct to the TS with the boiler demand controlled via the cylinder stat on the TS.

The boiler is huge. You really need to run a smaller boiler harder with oil. 46kw is WAY big for an oil boiler. Is the house 8 bed 6 bath?

Anyone interested please use the PM service for exchanging particulars. The thread can be kept for general comments. Thanks. Mods.

Not the cheapest, but for example.... This kind of thing or this one

Don't shoot the messenger ?

you can get the trap to do that. Ill add to that later.

@ProDave, you want the flip over type waste. Buy a good quality chrome over brass one and its bombproof. Do NOT fit the click clack type waste as my arse cheek pops mine open. A bad day in the life of a plumber trying to do his work and the work of others, and then choosing between happy wife...or happy customer.... By that stage I would have plugged the hole with an oily rag tbh

Just ring and ask if they do the solvent insert reducer.

TBH, I may be interested in buying it off you after your done with it, if you go the 18v route PM me.

18V will give longer runs between charges and be a more saleable gun afterwards. Downside, a little bit heavier.

How about 6mm MDF ripped into 125mm slices and chamfered to stop the top edge from fraying ? If you break the insulation away you'll have to foam it back and cut it when cured, which will be a pita.

Ive got the 780 XPS shadow line which is the dogs bollocks. The box said "convenient carry handle makes it easily transportable around site". MY ARSE IT DOES!!

Im mostly Makita for my entire collection, but the autofeed gun was not their finest hour at all Mine jams a lot, so much so that I carry a long nose pliers in my pocket all the time im using it. The Hilti one is very basic looking in comparison but seems to just keep going from when ive been on site and seen guys using them.

.....or could read "almost to be expected" when referring to typical mass-builders.

We'll always have Paul Potts !

Did you know we invented the handkerchief

Top advice. The only issue is if the door is being accompanied by the fitters.....to fit it. @j_s What the Bobby Moore with your door?

I just like the ability to yank on the waste pipe all I like after welding it all to the stack. With the rubber bung, you sneeze and out it comes. Theyre ok if it's all timber work and you can clip the pipes, but even then I just can't see any reason to use them when you can buy the all solvent solution just as easily and it's a far far better job IMO. I always worry about them pulling out......no such worry with solvent weld. The only con with solvent weld is you get one shot to get it right as the glue goes off very quickly. The way to avoid distaster is to mock up dry, number and mark the pipe and fitting at each junction and then you can just glue one pipe and one fitting at a time, gluing and twisting until the marker lines line up. Draw two or three lines ( across the fitting and onto the pipe ) as it's easy to get a single line not quite lined up properly, not so easy with multiple lines

That solvent filler works on most stuff, so I'll be suprised if it's not compatible with what you've already got. The issue is the compatibility of the reducer I linked and the fittings you already have. Likelihood is that you can source the matching suitable reducer to correspond ?

No need to rough them up tbh, just use a solvent cleaner first to remove any contaminants. Try to rotate the fittings after you've pushed them home, as that tends to give a good key. Shower tile / trap looks good to me.

Comments to follow after the pics .

Why buy a 40mm pipe and wonder if it'll be ok, when you can just buy a 50mm pipe and KNOW it'll be 100% ? Don't underestimate the effect that soap suds have when filling a 40mm pipe, as when the full bore gets filled you lose the air gap and drainage becomes laboured. 50mm for me every time, and nobody comes after me to fix my problems . Its a big fat NO to using the rubber 50mm bung, instead you want one of these and use this stuff to glue it all together. Once that goes off you can jump all over it and it'll stay rock solid. Only switch back to regular solvent weld when it's the waste pipe and fittings your doing. You may need to match the soil fitting and the 50mm insert / reducer manufacturer to get a proper fit / compatibility. If the shower run goes under the bath, and the bath panel is removable, then fit a sweep tee facing into the flow so it comes up beside the bath with a rodding eye so you can rod from the stack to the shower trap. Some shower traps can be 'opened' and you can easily rod from the trap to the stack, so adjust accordingly for whatever you decide on. Yes, with ease. Either fit an AAV ( air admittance ) valve upstream of the tee point under the bath, or fit an anti-vacuum / siphon trap on the basin, like this to stop any glugs from the basin whilst the bath empties.

I wouldn't take a pay cut for anyone ?