Nickfromwales

Adding the upstand does add some additional thermal break, but any decent door threshold will already be reasonably well thermally broken, plus the foam gives immediate separation from the screed and the threshold / frame. Have the yellow foam against the frame, as expansion (should you actually need it) needs to be at the perimeter. You then fit the grey stuff with foam, so it doesn’t move, then trim that to be the exact height of the screed, so the screeders have a target to lay to. After the screed is dry, you then cut the yellow foam to the screed height. You could just double up on the yellow foam, but it looks like you already have the grey stuff so crack on. Stop and start the yellow foam in the internal corners to prevent gaps from forming a continuous radius, just apply duct tape to the back of the foam to create a hinge, then once fitted tight do the same to the front to keep it liquid proof.

I had one couple with a baby move in early, and overnight (minus a working MVHR) they got to around 2000ppm, which was making them feel ill the following morning (headaches / lethargic etc). That was with them ventilating manually through the day. With MVHR on the house became blissful.

Have you just tried turning up the flow temp by a few degrees?

Why make it such a pita to airtightness tape etc by screeding so late in the game? Sooner it’s down the sooner it starts drying too. Also nice to be running UFH if working though the winter. Did this on the last one where we boarded and skimmed the plant room very early on, just to get the ASHP in and running. Much nicer site to work on if you’re not freezing and the house doesn’t then have damp / mildew growing on the fresh plasterboards etc.

Brown envelope city.

Yes, but the fleas come with the dog, lol.

You may be ok, just giving a precaution.

Yes, but you may get a gurgle from the opposite appliance when the other is discharging as these create a seal vs the open pipe I suggest.

That's how @Pocster got parole.

We pity the fools....... I'd not waste much more time on her tbf, and ask if she's going for diamond leadwork in the windows.

Yes, you should have TRAP Y branch (130 degree) One of these in the side of the Y branch 300mm vertical drop is plenty, as the overall drop is to the invert of the 40mm meeting the black connector. Can you not take the black connector out and put a reducer where that goes into the floor?

Can we have even a crap drawing of what you propose please? 2 beers in atm, which is good for me, and I'm still lost.

Nope, it would just throw the breaker that the manufacturer installed to stop you from doing that. Then you reset stuff, after turning off the George Foreman Soufflé maker.

You can do this off the shelf, and as long as you’re not using the induction hob and a 10.5kW electric shower then the inverter will cope whilst you start running around shutting off these big loads. Wouldn’t need the manual changeover then (which is a bit Fred Flintstone nowadays ).

Half or more of resellers in the solar trade don’t know, so it’s defo a growing concern as PV / batts / EV / paid export as a working combo is defo on the rise.

Over reverse current is usually dealt with by a double pole MCB type device. It’s quite a shit diagram tbh, with “breaker” used where I suspect they should be saying (perhaps) isolator or over current device. As there’s no current rating stated I’m assuming they’re just dumb DP isolators. Does the manual state otherwise?

I’m saying what the usual arrangement is for swapping between grid and generator. If the inverter has approval for use in the UK then happy days. The changeover is done electronically in an approved device. The last pic you shared is helpful, and more relevant btw!!

I bought the cheap makita drill sets from SFx just to get the batteries and chargers, same charger to look at, but no fecking fans. £139 for a (crap) drill, 2 5ah batts and a charger in a case on one of their specials, so I bought 2 sets. Just a heads up to make sure you didn’t get gazumped like I did. Gave the chargers to my sons for their makita car hoovers etc, and bought a used makita dual. Handy thing with the dual (but not with all duals btw!) is the USB charger port.

Those AC isolators are physically connected in a changeover switch, so it’s one or the other in a flip/flop arrangement.

Changeover, as it’s referred to, should be exactly that. A switch that breaks all connection from the grid supply and swaps you to the ‘generator’ (whatever source that is), and any electrician should know the fundamentals here; if they don’t, there’s a book in their van that they can go and consult. If they still, then, don’t know, show them the door and give the same money to someone who does. If you don’t know, and you (any member of the public) attempt to DIY, then that’s about as dangerous as it can get. Foreign manufacturers installation guides need proper interpretation by the sparky / installer in the relevant country, so there shouldn’t be any ambiguity if you’ve chosen the installer well. It would need to be the ‘perfect storm’ though, as one dwellings output would be entirely consumed by the neighbouring properties sharing the line, plus the line / local transformer losses etc, so even if you had a huge inverter the chances of zapping a linesman, in the real world, would be rows of noughts after the decimal place. Imagine your microgenerator being asked, in a blackout, to reverse feed all of your neighbours houses. It wouldn’t even get the lights to flicker. A person would have to be working on the severed DNO cable feeding your house to go meet Jesus.

But you’re getting all the answers, however difficult that becomes, lol.

So, 3ph heat pumps, back on topic folks!!!!!

People, in general, would rather have a grossly expensive kitchen, nicer car, at least one holiday per annum, and a high gas bill. Ignorance will remain blissful for a good few more years to come.