Nickfromwales

The quick fix here is to grab the screw and put it back in. Slows the flow, or if you’re gentle can actually nearly stop it altogether. Just looking for a chicken emoji lol.

Downside is by the time the pillar is built there won’t be the width left to install 2x 2.4m (OP is 50mm shy on that before adding the pillar width). @New to this A pillar will be fragile unless tied in by design, so would need to be a decent offering. The first time you bumped into a single brick wide pillar it would fall apart. You could fit a 100x100mm box section steel post, or even 150x150mm, and then dress it and fit brick slips to it so you’re less than 150/200mm wide but strong as feck. This wouldn’t affect your existing plans / designs, and means you could revert back to original. Steel would just have some tabs top and bottom for fixing it in robustly. FWIW, I’d need a very good reason to fit 2 smaller doors vs one useful larger one, but I’d also have a side or rear door for occasional visits. Standard size garage doors are pretty pants, but I guess moot if you’re not putting a vehicle, or maybe only one vehicle in there? Pointless unless you can comfortably open the doors on the car.

Hi, and welcome aboard There are building regs conditions which kick in after a building is about 30m2, so yours would provoke a b regs submission too. Or, you could do 2 adjoins buildings and then link them together ‘quietly’. You’ll need to build 1000mm from the boundary to avoid a whole world of pain with fire related criteria, so read lots here and consider how you approach planners (well in advance of actually doing so) to avoid getting tangled up in expensive, unnecessary grief. Can you build it narrower and longer, for example. Also consider use, as you ‘shouldn’t’ run a business from there obvs.

As above. All the best for another year of staring at one tiny problem for waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too long. And then realising it didn't REALLY matter that much after all. Adios 2025, here we go for 2026. Get your house built asap, or it'll be 2027 and I'll be telling you off again

You don’t need local, it’s a desktop job . If you need someone just PM me.

All seems kosher to me. Why the overlay UFH? You can just put the UFH pipes onto the insulation, adding 20(?)mm more slab insulation to boot. Then just pour the screed / concrete as your finished slab. Flooring then goes directly on to the heated slab. Cheaper and better, just takes a little longer to warm up but a good setback timer will deal with that.

Seeing that pic from inside with the bay floating, I think you’re right. Most likely they put a steel in there when it was converted to 2-storey tbh.

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/forum/79-mechanical-ventilation-with-heat-recovery-mvhr/

Maybe a good opportunity to poke an inspection camera in one of the bigger gaps, to look down to check that there’s no masonry that has become lodged in the cavity and is bridging the damp.

Managing ventilation heat loss and recovering the heat that is otherwise lost, are 2 factors that come together here. Airtight + MVHR is the base layer, and imho insulation levels are something to improve where you practically can, as the cherry on the cake. Airtight with a good quality, high recovery MVHR brings down the heat loads, so that boosts longevity of the ASHP. It’s all of this brought together that needs to be considered as “the answer”. Ones no good without the other.

The entire brick facade (either side of the bay and above) are as one. That’s how the upstairs brickwork is defying gravity. The first floor joist probably carry on and protrude out through gaps in the brickwork, like fingers, which forms the structure that makes the canopy. Other option is that there’s just a timber framework fixed to the brickwork, like a tent frame, and the downstairs bay forms some of the structural strength. A lot of these types of arrangements often used hardwood window frames to bear loads, and then they got cut out and replaced with uPVC, and then these show signs of failure associated with weight bearing on them (which they can’t cope with).

To wrap this up……. ”No” 👎

Have you got some pics of the ‘affected’ areas? Lapping it up may harbour water so we need context for some better answers

Percy-verance. Lol. Gotcha. 😉.

Driving rain is pissing in through all the missing pointing. Leave until after April and then sort it. Is the down pipe blocked or do you have any leaking joints? If so fix that immediately.

Percy time.

Managing draughts is the biggest issue here, so get that right and the lesser insulation will be of far less consequence. . If it’s blowing a hoolie through there, it won’t matter if you’ve got 400mm of insulation; it’ll still be cold because of ventilation heat losses.

This just needs a decent clean down, and a rebuild. Unless there’s a crack in the plastic, or the flush pipe was originally cut too short. If it leaks whilst flushing it’s either from the connection under the cistern, or at the conical washer that pushes into the small hole in the pan. I sometimes put a block of packaging type polystyrene behind the flush elbow, grid in place with some tape, so that when the pans offered back into the flush pipe it can’t move backwards.

You don’t need to change the cistern. Just get some good old CT1 and fit this one back in properly. Those big rubber washers get put in dry by most, and go the distance, but if they’re not put in right first time obvs they leak. Clean all components and dry everything off. Then rebuild with CT1 as the saviour, either side of that washer, on all joining faces, and do not over tighten it when reassembling.

The combi is full of weak components and no cylinder, ergo something would just go pop if it ever super-heated the water. Loads of failsafe avenues there. If you heat a sealed cylinder, it becomes a bomb.

You won't have a choice, if you put an immersion heater into a sealed system.

If you give these a decent flogging over the years they start to give up. I only use these for condensate or D2 these days, unless there's no other option, so they only see clear water and very low volumes or none at all (D2 in normal use is dry).

What he said.

One is indiscriminate, the other is a targeted and sensible insurance. A drain (singular) vs drains

Please mark on the calendar, each year from now until the next house, just how many times you needed the floor drains. Then realise why nobody in the UK fits them. . FWIW I am specifying a plant room with all plumbing in, with a new insulated raft, and I am going to recess the slab by 25mm in there and add a drain (sump), plus I am going to spec Fermacel and then tank it and the slab. In the event of anything 'wet' giving up in the plant room, the water will just disappear 'down the plughole'. The issue is, keeping these drain populated with water so the stink doesn't rise from the sewer, or worse (vermin etc). I'll install a gulley with throughput, so the constant use of the washing machine or utility sink replenishes the body of water in the trap.