Nickfromwales
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Everything posted by Nickfromwales
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Yup, a min of 1500mm is what ive read, but best practice 2000mm or more. @James H, can you rotate the grilles so they are at 45o to each other rather than both grilles 'aimed down' ? They are a bit close. What did the manufacturers literature state? -
Isn't Trevor Cylinders2go? Have you tried them @SteamyTea ?
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You won't go wrong with the spectra TBH, and a bit less obtrusive too. I prefer the others as they're a bit more directional but not much in it TBH.
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Yup. I often put a bend on the feed pipe and run a bit of pipe around to the front, somewhere nearer, so when the immersions are accessible so too is the cold inlet ( and more importantly the drain off cock ) so both are easy to get to.
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He's staying old skool dave .
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I thought you had a string of blonde single neighbours where you 'washed' occasionally
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Hi and welcome Looks a nice little addition .
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Do you cook wildebeest?
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Phase 1 : Meter & new supply. Phase 2 : No meter, just a single socket for the washing machine and tumble dryer phase 3 : Spare free feed for any future laundry business Better payback than FiTs Disclaimer : Do not follow my advice.
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No problems then. Is the head currently where you'll want it to stay ?
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Wall Hung Frame / Cistern issues
Nickfromwales replied to newhome's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
A bathroom spanning 2 forums and about 70 pages......and he says "the baths working to be fair" -
Hi. Theyll probavly give each barn its own phase TBH but it depends on the capacity and current location of the supply. Sounds like you'll need the supply cut back and a 3-way split underground with 3x new single phase feeds rising in each 'new' dwelling. Others will add to this shortly. Don't forget to mention PV and ASHP ( if applicable ) when you contact the DNO for the works.
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Ah-ha! Nope! You should be fitting a water softener
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My mistake, was referring to the first schematic. Did they specify the LLH because of the gas boiler ? I fear your spending good money after bad by designing the system with the gas boiler included. Id ditch the gas boiler when fitting the sunamps and heat them with electricity only until your ASHP is commissioned. The ASHP can provide high grade heat for the PCM58's so I really think it's a bad / uneconomical decision to keep the gas boiler, even if it's there already. TBH, feeding the PCM58 units with grid electricity, rather than the ASHP, ( eg in times of no PV generation ), wouldn't be ridiculous, but a lot of the year the energy for the Sunamps will be PV based, so using the ASHP to bridge any gap that removing the boiler creates won't break the bank ( but will save £££'s on the capital installation costs and reduce complexity for controls ).
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ASHP : for cooling. Boiler : Existing ( but 100% completely unnecessary ). Low loss header : Probably way OTT. Sunamps : No brainer, and size / qty perfect IMO. Pv : The more the merrier. Id like to see a final design before this goes to print as you may well be leaking heat which would start to make things uneconomical to run when the PV isn't effective. The 2-port on the ASHP feed is a no-brainer. When the ASHP gets fitted Id completely redesign the installation to suit a no-gas solution ( with the gas boiler going on gumtree ). Utterly pointless having the gas boiler when the ASHP can be ramped up for emergency / boost to the PCM58's. Have a rethink @le-cerveau
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Only if they can't be serviced / replaced from the front.
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The listing shows a technical schematic drawing so just a case of getting the tape measure out tbh. Very few retrospectively upgraded items just 'slot' in so expect to alter a couple of connections maybe. Deffo worth going for the drop loop though.
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It would only be cold in x 1 and hot out x 1. No other connections.
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I take it youve written off considering a Sunamp due to cost?
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The hot outlet needs to be horizontal at the very least, but better to have it slightly uphill so an airlock cannot occur. You could down-turn the pipe if you put a bottle vent at the high point I suppose, but for anti-convection you'll need a drop loop of at least 400-450mm. Whats wrong with your camera btw?
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Almost all are front serviceable. The only thing to watch out for is some have the NRVs in the inlets facing sideways, but mostly on the cheaper valves. If there is an option to remotely mount standard 15mm inline NRVs ( double check valves ) and do away with the manufacturers ones then thats a back-up option, but yours is soft water too iirc so less of a concern.
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Barn floor - does lowering it cost a lot more?
Nickfromwales replied to Roz's topic in Barn Conversions
Just the integrity of the structure would have me panicking tbh. Find out if you could stick build a new, replacment timber framed dwelling if you reclaim and use the available stone to clad the exterior. There would likely be enough there to remanufacture and wrap the current sized building, as well as clad the new extension, so all would look proper and in-keeping. Plus you'd have a comfortable and modern spin with the correct head heights ( subject to ridge height restrictions from the planners ). As mentioned, check what lays beneath before even asking another question, but face facts that you'd either have to dig down enough to get 150mm of insulation in and then a thin wooden floating floor, ( to save on depth and cost of a screed ) or apply to raise the ridge height and build over what youve got, eg if the foundations are not sufficient to excavate. -
One observation here would be the non return valve on the ASHP flow. I think that would need to be a 2-port motorised valve as I think theres a strong chance of the CH flow pump sucking water through the NRV and cycling heated water through the ASHP when its not in use. Or use a 3-port W-plan diverter valve to tee the two pipes together. then its one or the other with the same result as 2 x 2-port.
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WRAS approved cheapy one I went for. The 3 way one here is identical to mine but different seller as I cant find the original in my purchase history, bought about 3 years ago. TBH these are so cheap you could buy a couple for spares as most good quality manufacturers will be charging not far off that for replacements bought outside of the warranty period anyhoo. Plus these come with a 10-year warranty. Only question is will the seller be around in 10+ years time ? For the difference in price, going for the HR is a no-brainer as you're pretty much guaranteed parts availability. Id still consider buying a couple of overhaul kits and a couple of thermostatic cartridges at the outset, so at least 10-15 years of trouble free motoring that way. Most bathrooms get refurbed every 15-20 years anyhoo.
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The only 'early fail' component in the dual port SA units is the electrical immersion heater which they say should be good for 10 years, and iirc is warrantied accordingly. They've actually adopted a better setup IMO and have chosen to fit 3 x 1kw immersions rather than a single 3kw one so triple redundancy. Probably to do with a more even heat transfer characteristic.
