Nickfromwales

Happy days ?

Ah, a guaranteed leak free system ? They don't make one I'm afraid as it's not down to the system it's mostly down to installer error. Yes, components do fail, sometimes catastrophically, but more often than not leaks are caused by poor installation or incorrect fittings being used. When you go on holidays, turn the water off at the stopcock, simples . If your water pressure / flow rate is good, then IMO your about to unnecessarily increase your risks by adding components that you don't need. A 'tank' will give some redundant water storage, but an open tank won't be ideal for potable ( drinking quality ) water provision as I certainly wouldn't want to be drinking from a break tank when I've got cold mains available. Even more so if it's outside and the squirrels ( or worse ) start using it to give the kids swimming lessons . FYI, a "mains water tank" to me is a sealed accumulator, not and "open" aka "break tank". If you NEED an accumulator then it would be best off outside so it stays cold, rather than attain house ( ambient ) temp, and fitted in an outhouse or other frost protected location. The added benefit here is that if it ever fails the house stays dry, but, you can fit them in attics onto a drip tray to manage any drips etc. A stone resin shower tray would suffice for eg with the trap made off to an overflow pipe to outside. If there's a problem, simply engineer a solution. My old boss used to say "If you're coming to me with a problem you should have waited a bit longer and be telling me the solution instead". In fairness we were usually in the middle of one ocean or another, so running to the merchants wasn't an option Best to first decide exactly WHY you want a tank before deciding what type and where it'll go.

Hypothetically....... DO NOT USE BLUE GRIT !

Bingo bango

Party over. Bye bye mark

I can't bring myself to watch. ?

Read the thread !? I'm in the office today ? Just skimmed the op, so my bad. Ill add something of value later

Ah, so little / no insulation either ?

Are the areas that are suspended going to be concreted? Or spreader plates?

This is only ok as it's Friday and the mods have had a few .

Probably a threaded barrel coupler used to join the two pieces of pipe together.

This makes my blood boil. Give me £25 and 8 Ace, mark all the trees you don't like / want with fluorescent paint, go out for the afternoon and I promise you they'll be gone by the time you get back. Next.... When arse-face next door next throws a ball into your garden for his 4-legged shitting machine, bolt out of the door the same time and simply throw a succulent pork chop directiy in front of it, whilst smiling and waving. An hour later when said 4-legged item is tucked up back indoors wait for the fun to start, as they then realise the pork chop was injected full of max strength doggy laxative A neighbours bull terrier thing used to trample through an OAPs well kept garden and come into my neighbours garden. It would then start growling at my kids, and me, when I went out to see what was upsetting my kids. After shouting at it, it stood its ground and stared me out. Ok, no problem. I got the water-filled jack ball from my kids bowling set and it found the dogs snout like it was laser guided. All I have to do now is look at the dog and it legs it, so, FYI, your neighbours dog can be trained. Im not endorsing animal cruelty, but mine and my family's life will never be compromised by an animal, especially if I didn't own it Growl at my kids.....prepare to die. Simples. If you want some help cutting the trees give me a shout. . Oh, and yes to a real-time video and audio camera. And yes to calling the police. They get very pissed off when they have to attend the same imbeciles time after time. Any time you feel threatened or intimidated you just walk away and ring them. Do not retaliate as you must keep the higher ground. Unfortunately I prefer the direct route, ( recently had a similar issue ), but as this was a she not a he, the pen had to be mightier than the sword. Bloody effective too I might add, with the situation going from stark raving lunatic to silent in less than 48 hours. Not a peep since .

Are you sure that's not for taking the cat to the vets?

What, ready for his BiL ? ?

Hi, and welcome. . A few dwellers here from that neck of the woods.

100%. If it's been on a while and is bone dry and dusty then it'll be very high suction. A very weak PVA mix will be necessary ( but only in the most 'adverse' cases ).

PVA goes on with a roller, not a brush. That needs applying so your skimming onto it before it dries. If you skim over dry PVA it's goodnight Irene.

Sounds like a baptism of fire lol. Welcome aboard . Have you built airtight and chased the low energy dragon ?

What about if you adhere to their requirements and fit the 2-port that creates the high limit failsafe? Why do the regs never seem to just state the simple facts. Makes a 45 min call to telfords tech guys a bit of a wasted exercise if that's right. Maybe they've challenged it and got it overturned by submitting a risk assessment / other get out of jail card

The conversation I had with Telford raised that. They're adamant. They say it relates to potable and not primary ( heating ) water, and as this came from Telford I'd have thought they would be a reliable source of information ?

You want to go sealed and pressurised 100%. Also @PeterW, no need for G3 as it's not stored potable aka high pressure potential. Clarified this with Telford the other day. Different ( lower ) T&PRV rating on a TS compared to an UVC.

Iirc the video shows tile adhesive being used to set the membrane ? Dampen the slab with a wet sponge first.

Your floor wet or dry? ?✌️️?

Croeso I Gymru boyo. And welcome to the forum ?