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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. I think he's very, very close to fitting it.
  2. The things people suffering with sunstroke come out with can make you laugh !
  3. @readiescards 9kW IVT was iirc £700. Cheaper than shoplifting.
  4. What if some idiots went up with an eBay special and did the job for a 1/3 of that? You know, REAL idiots.
  5. You can have a vented TS with a DHW instantaneous coil inside it, commonly referred to as a combination tank. The telford Tri-store for one eg.
  6. No 'problem' other than the much higher standing losses from the tank, and the vent pipework to the CWS tank above it. Fwiw I would never spec an open pipe gravity hot water setup as your then quite restricted to what mixer outlets you can have as they'll need to deal with gravity hot and mains cold on basins for eg. Baths and showers can be balanced cold fed off the CWS if you double its capacity.
  7. Id put the kettle on if I were you Firstly, the least amount of kit. Secondly, the least amount of service / maintenance. Thats a simple system. @Stones has an ASHP direct to UFH and to an UVC which is reporting good numbers. Downside is the physical size and location of the equipment if you go ASHP > UVC so not great in a smaller or urban setting. Sometimes declined by planning. UVC requires annual G3 service and inspection. @TerryE Has a willis heater direct to UFH and ( gulp ) 2x SAPV's for DHW. Almost zero footprint as the stuff would all fit in a large suitcase. To be honest the two SAPV's would now be replaced by a single eHw 9/58, removing all the pumps / flow switches etc so in essence they'd just be dumb boxes full of goo with no moving parts / valves etc at all. No G3 required so zero annual service, but inspection ( easily DIY ) still required. Nowt lasts forever without a bit of attention @JSHarris has an ASHP to a buffer > UFH, and that buffer offers uplift for the incoming cold mains. That feeds into a SAPV, same as above, could be further simplified by upgrading to an eHW SA unit. If you want to add renewables it becomes a little more complicated, the maintenance becomes a bit more intense, and upwards of there tbh. As each instance is almost unique, its a very big question. You should really say "this is what I want to use, whats the easiest / simplest way of achieving it?" The simplest system imo is grid gas > combi boiler > rads, or, combi > buffer > UFH. Both instances with instant constant DHW from the combi.
  8. Which fortifies the original question about the ASHP. 1kW in and 2kW out is half price heat, and anything above that is a bonus so, given you can show the reduction in bills, its deffo a good marketing initiative. That coupled with a working ( lol ) ST system makes it attractive. If I saw a big ( and it is big ) house with a 3-phase electric boiler id pop out a snickers bar.
  9. It takes a very long time for things to 'rot'. It should dry out, and a good spray with a bleach solution should take care of the smells. They won't go by themselves. Will be a week of forced ventilation and a week of deodorising at the very least. Shit happens though, and given the size and complexity of your build, I'd not get too hung up on it. . "Adapt, and overcome".
  10. Remove a small section and run a small fan through the void. Its stagnation that's the issue, so ventilate it and shift the moisture content out. Otherwise not even MVHR will help.
  11. It'll be of no real detriment at 150mm centres but it would probably mean more loops and a bigger manifold eg more expense. Pennies in the grand scheme TBH.
  12. Yes, as you cannot have an UFH manifold without a pump or blending valve. To FO so would be unsafe and unwise asvyou have no way of mitigating against the hysteresis of the HP output and more importantly no protection against the stat failing and driving high temp water through the loops.
  13. Comfort is an individuals perception of, so I work on generalisation when commenting here, or specifics if I'm designing for someone . Modelling heat migration through the upper floors where bedrooms typically reside shows that with MVHR, but without local auxiliary heating in those rooms, temp drops of the rooms ( as opposed to the buildings fabric as a whole ) are notable. That is the reason people want UTH or towel warmers in bathrooms, as they want that additional comfort heat introduction albeit not lots, but some at least. In one example I'm consulting for someone who is having a Beatie PH built. The selected MVHR supplier has stated that 2 of the 4 bedrooms will never achieve the target temp of 20.5, and therefore require auxiliary heating. Accepting that daytime solar gain may well give a little uplift, it's safe to say the nighttime will have a deficit which needs consideration for anyone who wishes to raise individual rooms temps rather than the overall temp as dictated by the downstairs room stat. Some people boil, and some freeze. My comment about heat / night etc should have been more specific but when the sun goes down the solar gain through glazing goes with it. Also, if reinforcement IS ever required them to not have stored solar energy in the daytime to provide it, by whatever means, is not a very good idea. That brings us back to chooses of how to store it. Clearly the SA unit withit lower losses and dramatically smaller physical size per kW ( a factor of >3 iirc ) equivalent is a serious contender. When the suns are done, unless it's a large dwelling with very high demand DHW, an all electric solution is IMO preferable to a HP. Whether its a la @TerryE ( Willis heaters on E10 and no PV ) or the likes of @Barney12 & @vivienz eg ( plenty of PV and no desire to have a HP, instead favouring just pressing a button and getting on with their lives ) then SA becomes the winner by far. The more complex you make things the more you become a slave to it so at some stage you remove the sieving of the pennies and choose what suits your lifestyle. The house should work for you, not vice versa. PCM58 is bench tested with staggeringly good statistics. @AndyT may well garnish this thread with the current stats, so if your middle-aged it's likely the still working SA will attend your funeral. Your ASHP will have been long buried and have cost you a good few quid in the process with its purchase, maintenance, and antifreeze changes. Even if it cost slightly more to run than PV > ASHP, I'd still go for the all electric option as it's just so simplistic, and has the least amount of impact on the dwelling. Not buying the HP, insulated pipework, controls and looking after it buys a lot of E10 electricity. The PCM34 is nearly twice the price of the PCM58 so systems with an ASHP will either need to employ a HT ASHP or a hybrid ( LPG / gas fortified ) ASHP. Further argument to fit a cylinder if your short of capital but not that much of an argument if your stating at the property long-term which is where longevity and low / zero maintenance costs become paramount.
  14. Youve missed out the whole point of the SA integration Solar PV. Yes go for a heat pump if youve E10 and no PV, but if youve Pv then the sums shift. Heat energy is the largest consumer of energy in even the best performing dwellings, so offsetting that with 'free' PV is where storage ( and capacitance ) is attractive. If heating is typically required at night ( comfort ) then you'll be 180o out of phase with solar generation, so you'd ideally want to store whats available during the day for use through the night, as space heating uplift, and in the morning as DHW. Direct drive off a HP will still just chew through grid electricity, the cost of which is only set to rise. Good points, but missing that critical factor. PV through a HP however is very attractive for much larger dwellings, so horses for courses. As we've said before, no two cases are identical. Bit of a contradiction there, as reducing energy costs will increase comfort. eg pay for you to be on the beach abroad more
  15. Same on my mates house. EWI going on and scaffolding everywhere and too long / close etc.
  16. Considered using one to make a new hole in that former. ?
  17. Your not alone. Chased out a concrete slab for a wetroom former. Set in the new 110mm waste and 50mm spur. Mixed rapid concrete with 6mm aggregate. Buttered everything with rapid setting tile adhesive and plonked it into place. It was an offset waste hole in the tray and I measured it whilst not concentrating. F@CK. All the mix back in the bucket, 15 mins of crazy chipping of concrete and sweat pouring off me, refit, and then late for the pub. Beer made me forget. Tray paid for the beer so go figure. .
  18. Living the dream ?
  19. That's it....I'm putting a fence up.
  20. Bloody foreigners ?
  21. Another day at the office . Have a glass of red ....medicinal oil for the cogs .
  22. And space heating ?
  23. And use what to heat it ?
  24. Yes, im currently getting a headache from it. Time to summarise on the Genevex / SA arrangement and get the hammer down. Ho-Hum.
  25. The dust has now settled ( I hope ) on the range of SA products. They will add to it ive no doubt, but the core PCM34 and PCM58 units are now at least marketed and 'fixed' so sizing and quoting can now be reasonably definitive. For the benefit of this thread, I am currently in very close contact with AndyT of Sunamp so I am a little further ahead of the curve than others may be. The info about the SA's is slowly filtering down to me, still a brain-frying amount to learn and digest, so I'll answer as many of the enquires here as I can to the best of my current knowledge. Firstly the range has now settled and the most important bit of info for the immediate is probably on sizing. The units have been referred to as 3kW / 6kW / 9kW etc etc, but they are now "sizing numbers". The reason for that has been that the units have been found to out-perform their rating, eg a 9kW PCM58 when fully recharged actually holds closer to 10.5kW and so on. It is also relative to the PCM, as in the PCM34 is temp / performance relative. For eg a PCM34 run off an ASHP that is delivering 36oC will see less stored energy accumulate in the PCM, whereas a PCM34 heated by an ASHP at higher temps would see more storage and better kW yield. Hopefully I will be getting my promised training and accreditation soon so I will then hopefully be privy to the calculators that are needed to work that ? out. For now I remain blissfully ignorant and factor for the worst case Ill add any other fundamentals as I become aware of them.
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