Nickfromwales

Wankers. Tell them to say something constructive or to keep their mouth shut. £50k in the hands of a wise woman will go a long way. .

NOTE : Just asked the question, and any size Uniq Sunamp unit will have 22mm inlets and outlets.

As long as the tips of the cuts dont snap off then yea. TBH the wet cut and diamond clean up should be less wasteful and be spot on.

Yup, after making a 2.5m feature fireplace a tea light may look out of place . After the balanced flue exists, cant this be closed off so all your space heat doesn't just bugger off up to the clouds every hour of every day for the rest of your life? Cap and closure and external vents for convection for the remainder of the stack? Might as well have fitted a fridge there otherwise.

I never mix batches. Just open the nearest box and whack it down, then go grab the next one and keep going. Just thinking, if these are ceramic then you could easily re-finish the edges with a diamond whetstone.

That will typically require a 22mm water circuit and a 22mm inlet / outlet off whichever type of water heater you go for. Correct. The only issue is diverting the DHW output from the 15mm outlet to say the ensuite shower for low use, and then the other bathroom/s need to be from a cylinder / Sunamp / other which is mothballed. The lack of practicality and complexity of such a setup really make that a non-starter tbh. The last exact same job I did where they had a brand new 40kW Baxi Duotec fitted by a tool a few months prior to us sorting things out ( 8 bedroom, 4 bathroom, 3 cloakroom, and laundry annex, plus granny annex in the garage roof! ) we re-used the combi and relocated it from the house to the laundry annex, piped via a trench. We used DHW off the combi for the laundry annex utility sink and cloakroom wash basin, and nowt else, via the 15mm outlet. The bulk DHW needs were then met from a TS set up on a W-plan ( DHW priority ) arrangement from the heating side of the boiler. That also did space heating via port 3 of the 3-port W-plan zone valve. When heating was required and the TS was depleted, the cylinder stat was allowed to take full priority off the boiler and reheat very quickly. Once hot, the boiler would revert back to space heating. The TS, coupled with a cold mains accumulator, would run 3 showers flat out simultaneously. The SA range start with the eHw which is iirc a 15mm piped unit up to 6kW, but at 9kW and upwards I would need to check if they go to 22mm. If not then your onto the eDual for space heating and DHW if the remit is for high flow DHW. First work out why you've considered SA. Do you have PV? They're typically for storage so with gas you'll only really be looking at volume for DHW storage if you want to keep the combi. Space heating should be via a buffer ( minimal volume required ) so either a TS or the SA eDual would be typical for this scenario. Options; An UVC for DHW via 22mm tappings, plus small buffer tank to input boiler heat and glean differing value space heating as required. A TS with multiple tappings for DHW ( via a 22mm instantaneous coil ) and boiler / space heating as required. Made bespoke to suit the install. A SA unit. The eDual has 1x non-potable 22mm heat exchanger ( heat energy in or out ) and 1x potable WRAS approved heat exchanger for DHW. The only one above thats energy efficient and does not require annual inspection / maintenance is the SA unit. Its also around a 1/3rd of the equivalent physical size for the same UVC volume. You could daisy chain 2x SA eDuals and mothball the first for low DHW demand, and then fire up the first when you need much more. Cheapest way would be good old UVC, lower capital cost, but then you have the G3 to pay for every year. As you have gas maybe just a small uplift in cost, ( if you choose a gas agent who has their G3 and can do 2 birds 1 stone at each gas service interval ). Theres no easy or cheap way to select between high / low DHW demand, and as you have gas and mixed temp space heating thats not straightforward either. With a TS you can choose dual cylinder stats and just heat the top 1/3 for low DHW and then the whole TS for high DHW demand, and when requiring space heating it'll be fully heated regardless, a setup that we refer to as summer / winter normally but a slightly different spin where you can heat the full TS ( high DHW ) but not draw heating from it ( heating zone valves remain closed ). Standing losses from the TS will be much higher than the SA unit, but probably less than the UVC + Buffer option ( UVC is all or nothing and must be sized for the high DHW needs ) so decide what your criteria actually is and consider the options from there. It can be made to work either way, by design, and each have pros and cons. Cons with the SA is they're not cheap to buy but pros are its lifespan and no cost to service / no moving parts / no pressure reducing valves / prv / G3 etc etc. Manifolds necessary for UFH and RADS. You'll need a low loss header at the very least, if not fitting a TS or other form of buffer, to create a common rail for those to feed from, otherwise the pumps will be able to 'see' each other and be fighting one another all the time. Why make the stats so complex? @JSHarris fitted a bog-standard room stat with 0.1oC hysteresis which is more than ample. Ive also never heard of modulating room stats and they must be manufacturer specific OEM units, like vaillants weather compensation kit, which just was nigh-on impossible to get to work properly. Even their tech guys got fed up in the end and sent a service agent out. He blamed me for the outside unit being in the wrong place after the pricks told me where to put it over the phone! Then they said the units weren't communicating because I has fitted the receiver in the boiler chassis ( where the bastard thing is MEANT TO GO ), again blaming me and stating to the customer that they never fit them there as the boiler acts as a Faraday cage and blocks the wireless signal. FFS!!!! Your making unnecessary work for yourself there, just dont overthink things and save a few £. If its a holiday let ( as I dont know exactly what it is you want to do yet so that doesn't make it any easier ! ) then I'd go TS or SA. TS gives nigh-on constant, instant, high flow DHW. Remember you can have a 1000L hot water cylinder that can run 10 showers, but if your incoming cold main will only support one then your only ever going to get one shower Many questions to answer first and we need to know the mains pressure and flow rates too. Make your mind up as to what its to be and design for that, otherwise its "how long is a piece of string"

Nothing stopping you fitting a closure plate in the breast and just running a flue liner to the chimney pot ? Say that bit again. Your stack isn't tied into the structure? Is it off a hip so no structure parallel to tie to ? 4m ! There's a gap between the two ? Who designed the chimney ?

Were not looking for bloody harmonics ? Cut more tiles, then stick the buggers down ?

Has the BCO accepted that ?

What you should notice is the new blade will have a square edge to it, and the one youve got has gone rounded edge. The square edge cuts a heck of a lot better so you should see a big improvement. Cut the floor tiles first so you get the best part of the blade life spent on the most important cuts.

Table saw has a lot more skew over a longer tile but should be a cleaner cut over a short tile.

Pay with CC and go from there ? Nice looking bath tbh, and not a £million

Was going to ask about the lack of spreader plates. Neat job

NO.

Speak to your SE about the loads. And tell your architect to FO. Your paying the bills, not the other way around. On the job with that cylinder I got told I would be answering to the architect. I said ta-ta. Wasn't long before it was the other way around. Architect got back-charged for specifying the wrong windows after the wrong ones were bought and fitted. I subbed out the brickwork, TF, roof and windows so got paid twice to fit them and got some nice free windows to boot.

They told me I wouldn't get it to fit. They didn't know me very well.

Get the boiler and the cylinder up the attic The only person to see that ever again is your service agent. Earn some brownie points with the extra storage of not having the plant in valuable living space.

Its fair to say youve punched a gut to get there. Congrats mate. Nowt better than winding the amp up and getting the speakers working up a sweat. When SWMBO goes off to the shop the kids leg it downstairs and shout "chuck the beats on dad!" and my Yamaha / KEF gear gets the dust knocked off it. Sweet.

He's taking his Labrador for a walk.

"feeding" aka "steering".

Yup. Grabbing hold of the tile and feeding it into the blade 'manually' is the kiddy. Leaving it down to the fence when its a vibrating tile chewing machine is a bit open to skew, but as I said, the proof is in the pudding. Your test tiles were ceramic yea? Are the floor tiles same or porcelain?

To most people it doesn't wander, but its us were talking about. A bit of wander will show after the test cuts. Either that or your freeby cutter pisses over my £350 Rubi.

Draw a line, eat the bastard nuts and chuck two more down your kegs. You'll need to steer the blade as you cut, as the radial saw still wanders.

The reason one side cuts better than the other is the back of the blade cuts on the upstroke. You'll typically be pulling or pushing so will reflect which side has the upcutting edge against it. Whichever that is gets shelled, not by the initial down cut but by the resulting upcut off the arse end of the blade. Gets on my wick TBH but you soon learn to engineer how you lean on the machine during use to change the rough edge from the 'keeper' to the offcut.