Nickfromwales

Copies of the PARTS invoices. ? £300 for a half day isn't bad either. Time to move to the other side of the Severn bridge I think.

£140 including the VAT. £300 for an hours work is very nice going. +1. Over gassing at low setting ( CH mode ) would throw readings off from the MI's, but leaking CO? Leaking from where ? I wonder if he fitted the fan properly. Its part of the combustion pathway so its definitely a contender for causing issues with CO if its not fitted properly ( new seals / overhaul kit bought and fitted ). Sounds like this guys in for a good £7-800 for a couple of hours work total. I'd ask for copies of the invoices for 'warranty purposes in case he goes bust' That'll squeeze a turd out of him.

Grrr. Now I'm thinking that would be nice to have as a 'night-time' option so the bathroom doesn't have to be floodlit to go for a 'midnight pee'. ? Think I'll go for 2 of the 2G switches and 1 of the 16a receivers. Can help but think the 16a models will have better longevity even with a low load. Same price so hopefully they're not noisy. Prob mount the receiver in an IP box in the bathroom attic. I'll pick up some cable tomorrow for the low-level lights. Nice treat for the customers as they've been very patient with all the extras that have needed doing, ( old house / wonky walls and floors etc ). Makes a nice change from the usual ungrateful pricks I seem to find in abundance.

I want for them to switch the spots on at the wall switch as they walk in / out, and if in the bath just to be able to flick a single switch over to change from spots to low-level lights. That will be smart. When done in the bath they simply switch back to the spots as they exit the bath. Im thinking a SS relay which changes from L1 to L2 upon being energised with L2 being the 230v feed to the tranny? Any 2-way SS relays about? Got to be quiet and reliable. Cheers fore the links, I'll get some of those for my girls room. TLC to the rescue again, which is great as they're about 3 mins from my front door

Exactly what makes it fun In my mates 19' x 5' above ground pool, we used to do the washing machine. 6 or so of us would all walk, then jog around the outside until it was up to the edge and then just fall over ( all of us half pissed on very low-quality wine I hasten to add ) and there would be body parts everywhere. I don't think anyone really realises just how much fun a pool is, and I bet your kids are thinking themselves very lucky. Good on you for spoiling them. Forget about running costs, its not about that. Oh, and damn you for having such a bloody nice house.

Not good in the shower wet area . Tiles need to be set in, stay water tight and stay there. Making gaps for LED strips in the tiles is not a great idea. You've got the spots in the pockets so don't go OTT .

Doing that in the current customers airing cupboard, down each side, switch set into the frame, so the lights come on automatically. Toying with putting one of those Kinetic switches onto the offside of the roll top freestanding bath ( with some 3m double sided tape, up high where it cant be seen ) to switch between some under vanity lighting so they can chill in the bath. The PVC windowsill has a 15mm overhang and I'm thinking to put some led strip under there so there's light from behind where they're sat in the bath, plus the under vanity LEDs at the front of the bath, but you won't be able to see where the lights coming from. Cool. Need to work out how to get the switch to flip-flop between spots in the ceiling and low level lights. Any idea on a solid state relay that will changeover ?

You set them up......

So you have to die in it to get your blue peter badge ? Id rather concentrate on beer an happiness.

Get back on it. Your lucky, in the one I did I volunteered to put chrome pinstripes up each vertical. Not my best idea.

If you don't squint at this pic it looks like the tile is short each side. It is, upon further inspection, one tile wide. I retract my earlier "dog shit" emoji based response. ??

You doing mosaic strips there ?

You mean a full tile in the middle and then two "I've never looked so out of place in my entire life" skinny rips up either side ? ? ? ?

The mitred wall is not for the feint-hearted so that's the way I did the one you shamelessly stole. . Id have no beer that day. .

On the mitred section I'd have a groutline up the middle and do that out of two part tiles. Lay the two walls to the left / right and leave to dry. Then tackle the mitres wall cutting the tiles to suit each course and pushing them corner by corner, filing as required, to get the lines and gaps perfect. If you do it the way your proposing you'll end up causing issues with the main wall grout lines as you try and steal from those and snug them over. Tiles don't stretch and groutlines don't move. Get the two walls up first and make sure 1000% that you stay plumb as you ascend. ?

Close the stopcock fully, and then count the number of turns to fully open. If it's a good many then your stopcock is open and you don't want to be forcing it past the fully open position. Is hot pressure / flow reduced at all the outlets in the whole house or just the kitchen sink ?

Whoa now folks. @recoveringacademic, Ian have you had an UVC fitted? You say converted to sealed and pressurised but that might just mean the primary circuit. More info please boyo. .

Sorry. Typing whilst working. A decent timber yard will just slice up and deliver what you need when you give them the length and fall ?

They'd be 8m long ( when you join two bits end to end ).

Ok lol. So the slope is down the 8m run ? If so, the firring pieces will be fixed down on top of the joists starting from 2" and tapering to nothing.

Just draw another sets of 4" timbets over the top of the ones you already have, running perpendicular. Then those run from 4" to 2" over the 6m to create the pitch for the flat roof sarking boards. ?

The terminology is important. Vent = open to atmosphere AAV = sealed to atmosphere but opens to allow air IN if a vacuum occurs within the stack. ?

What's there not to like ? I surrender. ?

If your at 400 centres with the joists and you use a firring piece that is 2" at its thinnest then you'll only have to noggin the last couple on each piece. Once it's sarked you'll be rock solid. Screw the sark boards, not nails .

Perpendicular over noggins .