Nickfromwales

The bends ( sets) would be quite long so I reckon you'd be better off with fittings instead. Either will do, just make sure the old stuff is cleaned well before soldering.

If tight for room, have the M&F go into your vertically rising bend, and use a second M&F to rectify ( instead of the equal M&F ). Rotating from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock should take you from zero offset to a full pipe dia worth of offset.

From the outlet of the boiler union, use a bit of pipe, then a 45o equal bend with an M&F 45o bend directly into that, and have them ascending ( twist them ) until it's minted lamb. Then head across to the bend and up and away.

"If you don't ask, you don't get" Triton are a good company, hence the excellent after sales ( very after in your case ) service. What we call "a result". Now go have a wash please ...........

Taking the O/S taps off straight after the stopcock and before the primary PRedV will preserve the premium flow rates and will then make that available mains potential divisible between the house and the O/S taps. Best practice is to have them off the rising cold mains, BEFORE it even enters the house. Stealing that further downstream would have a much bigger impact on the flow available at the nearest outlets to where you’ve T’d off. Damn good idea. I’ve seen some folks mains peaking out at over 11 bar and things blowing up / off with catastrophic consequences. Set that to 4 bar, and then make sure the secondary one is STILL fitted at the UVC. The difference between them, the UVC one ( aka control group ) will be factory set at 3 bar, will need to be mitigated. You’ll need a single check NRV on the 22mm hot outlet of the UVC to stop back pressurisation of the UVC from the mixer taps / shower mixers etc. That is your cross to bear I’m afraid. I can only advise as to what you ‘should’ be doing, you can achieve what you can Are you trying to do as little disturbing of the property as possible? Tough nut to crack if so. You’re welcome !

I thought they might Happy days. My work here is done ✅ Bonjour!

My grandmother didn’t die in vein. I still have that hat boyo ? and you can’t go betting with it ok. ?✌️

Looks good ?

OK. Why is there a bathroom on hard and a bathroom / other stuff on soft? Why the pressure valve? I assume you mean PRedV ( pressure reducing valve ). One will come with, and need to be fitted to the UVC. That valve ( serviced by soft water ) will have a balanced cold outlet for soft feeds to all mixer taps, so would need to go to a soft cold manifold fed from the 'control group' at the UVC. The UVC must NOT be serviced after all the other cold feeds. It must have "cold mains priority" which means 22mm pipe feed from the cold mains direct to the UVC WITHOUT anything drawing off in between ( in an ideal world ). If this is being done from scratch then I would observe this discipline religiously. Outside taps should be outside off the rising cold mains, but if they have to be T'd off internally and taken through external walls then they need to be T'd in AFTER the stopcock, but BEFOFRE the 1st PRedV without exception. The above drawing needs to be scrapped sorry, loads of faux pas there. Ask questions, we'll answer them

Doesn't look 'novice' to me. Are you Tommy Walsh? C'mon.....fess up !!

Is it the Wedi stuff you've used? I've done a lot with that and never had a single failure. Good system with a whole family of complimenting products, but don't miss one out or you'll lose the warranty. ( Same with Impey ).

OK, so you've gone belt and 3 braces then Nice job ! Just lay an inch or so of clear CT1 where the shower screen wall profile hits the junction, and wipe any excess away with cheap baby wipes. Stops the water that lingers there becoming problematic, but in your instance is a mere insurance addition to the water-proofing that you've already observed. Pics would be nice if/when possible please.

Have you grouted the gap between the wall tile and the floor / tray etc? Silicone should reinforce that, not replace it. Also, have you siliconed the tray to the wall BEFORE fitting the shower screen, just where the screen profile sits?

Crackers?

Good point. You need to specify "non slip" or you may end up with a decorative tray not a functional one.

Were you very time-constrained? I've had textured trays in as little as 5-7 working days.

What do you have on the floors? Tiles? My bet is @Vijay will go for a good quality LVT for non-slip and ease of maintenance. 1000mm gets a lot of splash from the rainfall heads, done enough to know that if you 'throw some shapes' in the shower then it's going to be worse again. FYI I've done lots where the client has asked for a 1000mm screen, with the caveat that they are made aware by me, up front, of what to expect.... plus I would then insist on tiles and tanking throughout for longevity.

Errrrr, don't use a solvent I never have in over a 1/4 century of doing high end bathrooms and wet rooms. Wet clean sponge to remove dry grout residue, then a cotton towel to scrub it dry. Leave to air dry thoroughly and then seal away. If you fear any other contamination, the CT1 MultiSolve is a good product to prepare areas for siliconing, but do you really need this extra process?

Then you have to tank the floors as well as the walls. 1000mm of glass doesn't cut it for an open enclosure IMO, 1200-1400mm minimum. Bit heavy on the wallet, but this is nice...Link

Just tell SWMBO that you noticed her sister seems to have lost weight recently......

That shower is knackered. Do not repair and reinstate it !!! Water will get into the top and when it does it'll have a nice 40amp supply with which to fry you......... Seriously? I'd send that pic to Triton UK sales, and on their Twitter feed too, and ask what they suggest you do with the failed unit, giving how dangerous this is, and what could have come from it. Do NOT think about salvaging this unit, please. It's Donald Ducked.

aka F&E ( feed and expansion ) tank.

Raised WC's are commonplace. You can get some nice ones which are fully back-to-wall, which hides the waste / plumbing connections and makes cleaning a doddle. Example. No need to get complicated with frames / wall hung shenanigans Super low profile tray can be bought as low as 25mm, and a nice slider with a low / no threshold will compliment that 1600mm gap perfectly. Example

Looks a great plan, what are you waiting for lol?

Assume the soil stack is external so no issue moving the WC?