Nickfromwales

OK. So, in this instance what you do is make nice pyramids of quite stodgy tile adhesive ( slow set !! ) and have then about 50mm higer than you need the tray to be. Then you slide the tray out on battens, or lower it from the front onto short battens near you ( there so you don't lose your fingertips when the heavy slippy tray gets the better of you ) and just let the adhesive squish out as you rubber mallet the thing into the position you want. Lots and lots of small taps, and never in the same spot more than twice, and gravity will go from your enemy to your friend as the tray heads south to its final resting place. Sort the waste out after its gone off, and plug the missing block with expanding foam. Then you just mix 2-part self leveller and pour it into the void around the blobs of tile adhesive under the tray and let it fill up as much as you can underneath. What could be easier?!?

He's screwed....lets just delete the thread and pretend he never asked

I've never used sand and cement mix to bed a tray down, just couldn't think of any reason not to use a flexible tile adhesive TBH. Remember to clean the underside of the tray as it may have decoupling grease / silicones etc as a residue from the manufacturing process, and tile adhesive won't stick to that. Oh, yes........ in your instance I would stick it down with tile adhesive Get some of the tile adhesive and a sponge / rag and make a paste to use like a cutting compound and scrub all the underside with it like as if it were Ajax. You'll see where it wouldn't stick, and when it then does stick, and then clean the worst of it back off ( unless you time this process with the overall laying of the tray ). Don't use your huge balls, switch to the iddy liddle ones and go with a standard or extended set adhesive so you have hours of 'play time' to get the tray scrubbed, buttered, substrate notched / blobbed, and the tray fitted to suit. Your time starts...........................................................................................NOW!

Pinged this only the other day. Have a read.

Making an energy efficient home shows that they care

Deffo apply to the internal if you stand any chance of getting some integrity there. Forget the attic as that'll be an absolute nightmare to detail successfully. Have you also thought of over-boarding the ceilings joists with 30mm PIR boards, foil faced, and then use foil tape to complete the barrier. Two birds one stone.

More PV???

Light plus waste heat?

That is trapped. Will have a removable ‘flap’ at 45 degrees inside for maintenance.

Galv buys you a few extra nights sleep no? Serious food for thought there. And which one of these are willing to put their balls on the line and offer warranties reflecting what they say? And how long for? This is a significant decision, and one not to be taken without the backing of the company supplying as 'fit for purpose'.

Quote: "The area where the undersoil tube is laid should not be built over so it is guaranteed that seeping rainwater can contribute to the thermal regeneration of the soil".... so anyone thinking 'kill two birds with one stone' on the dig-out for the dwelling, nope, it has to be outside the build envelope. One client I had simply dug extra deep around the periphery where rainwater systems were to go and economised that way.

The one I worked on seemed a robust setup, but will only work as well as it is installed eg buried the correct depth and in suitable ground. I also introduced a PHE and a couple of zone valves to introduce heated water from the heating system into the same BPC duct heater / cooler. Effects were instantly notable in 'heating mode' and I expect it would work well as a passive unit also. At that price, nothing stopping you doubling up and fitting 2 lots of the kit with the duct coolers in parallel for larger properties or higher yield.

Not overly expensive if you have a machine on site

And the only way to find out, is to go and ask Some people will appreciate a binary dialogue, others will run a mile ( ask me how I know ) . Persistence will pay dividends but never struggle to engage, as that should be organic and mutually enjoyable Do not expect anyone to change for you as that is just never going to happen, so make your decision and go ask for a date. If you don't ask, you don't get!

Pack of 3 blades for my Makits 18v cordless circular saw for £20, and just bite the bullet with the dust.

More words of inspiration....

Today could be your LUCKY DAY!!!!!!!!!

Not mine either. I genuinely was shocked at how noisy the internal unit was. That was fitted in a basement and with good reason. There would be no way a customer would have accepted that inside the kitchen, the utility MAYBE.... Mono-block for me every time, and do away with the need for high temp delivery ( eg heat DHW off overnight 5p electric tariff ) and just use the HP for space heating.

Very. Noisy pile of crap that I witnessed. If that was put in my house it would put out just as quickly. ?

Has a catchy tune so can’t be wrong ??

https://les.mitsubishielectric.co.uk/latest-news/ultra-quiet-ecodan-takes-heat-pumps-to-the-next-level

ASHP manufacturers have sat up and listened to this, and now you can get ‘super silent’ ASHP’s to suit. The Daikin split I worked alongside a while back was horrible, and a bit like a washing machine on spin, ?, no ta. Noisy, and vibrations a plenty. A well designed, well thought out installation will not be noisy, and you can direct the sound from the fan at a living barrier to absorb any residual noise from it too. You can make big mistakes about where to site this, from an acoustic nuisance PoV, so for eg avoid siting it at the end of a path between a wall and a building or you’re creating a natural ‘horn’ which will amplify the sound a lot. Put some thought in and you’ll be able to remove any nuisances

https://www.insulationsouthwales.com

Welcome aboard!

If 'she' reads this, it'll be you getting kicked around the floor lol.