Nickfromwales

We fitted sprinklers in one large job, but tbh I could have got away with not fitting them. As the egress routes were quite convoluted it was mutually agreed that they were a good idea. BCO was happy to see them go in, but indicated that they were not mandatory in that specific instance. Confusion reigns still. Piss-takers still take advantage. Loopholes offer such opportunities

Not too shabby Bruce. ??

Cold feeds for outside taps should be off the rising main, before the domestic stopcock, rather than fed from the internal plumbing setup As for the rest of the runs, stick to your guns and don’t worry about the number of runs. It’s a far better setup than series plumbing, and bums do twitch when the numbers start getting to what some would see as ‘silly’. Are you doing hot returns to basins / sinks?

https://www.walesonline.co.uk/news/wales-news/thousands-new-homes-wont-sprinklers-13684910

£6k installation fee. ?

Then I’d say the mat may be omitted over that then. Is the plywood top layer glued and screwed well?

Were all the layers bonded to the sips / between layers? Eg no movement when you walk on the floor?

Ah, yes. Apologies. In bathroom mode atm. Still disagree with trying to glue ANYTHING into a cut hole in PB. It’s only the paper face, and the paper face alone that you can get any tiny bit of purchase with, so no, and no again. If it’s a true stud wall and there is a cavity, then the collapsable “toggle” fixings reign supreme.

Nothing sticks to cut gypsum in the core of PB It’s like trying to glue something to talcum powder. No sale.

Absolutely not. They work themselves loose, and the mirror will be moved a bit during each wipe down / polish. It’s a bathroom, not a corridor, so cleaning will be much more frequent / vigorous

Do NOT use those scabby corkscrew ones. Great back in the day when nothing else was available, but now pretty shit tbh. Edit to add; I’d fortify this with two big blobs of clear CT1 100mm in from each of the bottom corners to stop this flapping about when wiping down. Fear is of it lifting off those and crash-landing on the basin / tiled floor.

Click and collect today. https://www.screwfix.com/p/gripit-plasterboard-fixing-25-x-14mm-8-pack/682GK?tc=ET2&ds_kid=92700048793290424&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=CjwKCAiAirb_BRBNEiwALHlnD8I-BBfC7hs_wBI21bKybD1MPEd4UTd3C-6aaCs3zAID7D1cfg6CQRoC5zwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I’d be worried about tiling straight onto the Egger boards over the overlay UFH system as that’ll usually be running a higher flow temperature. I would either use a mat or overboard with a 4mm marine grade plywood glued ( PVA ) and screwed with screws on 120mm centre X & Y minimum. If the Superflex is 2-part then you may get away with it directly onto the deck boards. Are they 18mm or 22mm ?

The link from manifold to manifold needs to be removed and dropped lower on the diagram eg so it is directly after the WH pump and returns straight back to the WH’s. That setup as shown would ‘boil’ the Willis heaters. You have also omitted the cold ( return ) connection to the mixing valve.

Eyyyyyyy-uppppp!?! Where the piss-stain coloured grout gone? ?. Ive just uploaded them pics to me “How ( not ) to” YT channel. MUCH better. ???

None of it gives any consideration to thermal convection, eg if a window is cracked open on night latch to allow “purge ventilation”, then the likelihood is that cold air + ‘au du shat’ will be pulled into and through the dwelling. Disgusting. Fit a fan ffs. ?

Yup, but the thermal time constant will be conducive to heating once a day during Octopus Go’s 5p/kWh / 4hrs plus maybe one more midday nudge in the Baltic times. ? Tres bien, Rodney.

Should add to the thermal ma........

Yes, but that’s only permissible up to a certain weight / load.

Different if it’s just a stud wall above, but clearly a lot more going on here.

Because the pozi joists don’t ( can’t ) take the load They stop and start at the beam on purpose as they have no compressive / load bearing qualities at the tail ends. The above loads need to be transferred directly to the load bearing stud wall, and that can happen if the header is a broken mix of overlapped joust rails and noggin in-fills.

To lay and grout that, including logistics, would be in triple digits for me. Cracking job on the grouting btw, and yup, a labour of love that is.

Once racked with OSB, a 98mm stud wall, with double header and footer, becomes incredibly strong. I’ve only ever seen 150mm used on walls which are excessively high eg divider between two rooms that share the same vaulted ceiling each side. The glulam is used here for plug n play construction IMO as two bits of C24 would likely need to be packed and trained into position due to natural timbers instability. Glulam beams are inherently flat, straight and uniform, when pre-cut and sent as part of a TF kit. They’re usually oversized in length and trimmed during installation in this type of instance.

Yup, cheers. A glulam is often used here as it’s more stable / quicker to install to get the full width cover at the top of the stud frame. Other options are 2x 44mm wide C24 solid timber joists which is a far less uniform end result ( and therefore non sympathetic to affixing pre-cut pozi joists to ) so that’s prob why it’s been chosen vs the requirement to take the kind of weight that it’s capable of taking. As @PeterW says, check twice drill once, as this is a new structure and you’ll need to preserve the frame supports warranties. The beam is not only supported by the double header of the stud frame, but also by the fact that the stud wall is racked with OSB for a huge uplift in structural integrity. Plating this between the pozi joists will do little to nothing, and I’m sure the SE will give you a green light to strategically penetrate that beam. I doubt they’d have any issue with you taking a 150mm section out completely, at one point midway, so you can then take cables through the gap there also. Smaller homes for MVHR and small bore plumbing can be made according to the SE’s advisories.