Nickfromwales

If its already in a metal conduit, then it will be fine 'boxed in'. I'd just box it in in the corner of the room, so say a 125x125mm boxing in finished, and that will mark its location and make it a little safer imo. The metal conduit may need to be earthed, and bonded back to the CU when boxed in, but I'm not 100% sure. Others will comment soon enough. Either that or pay for a service alteration and drill through the wall at its base, ( core drill down at an angle from inside the garage to outside, excavating first so you don't daage the cable whilst drilling ), and have the cable puled in and run up the inside the garage on show instead.

We can talk you through it tbh. Have you tools and previous plumbing experience?

Plus the fact that humans tend to close trickle vents in the cold windy depths of winter......PPM levels of CO2 subsequently go through the roof, plus humidity, and then comes damp. It's a double-edged sword, where you build either to our dogshit British building regs and fit trickle vents, or go better and provoke a requirement for mechanical ventilation. All of my M&E clients who have MVHR all state that it is a very pleasant environment to live in. We engineer systems to be near silent also, but at £1500 you'd have a very cheap and nasty setup with a unit made from Chinesium. I pay more than that for just the bare units to be delivered, without any ducts etc. Budget for the £5k minimum for supply and fit for a 3 storey house, for a radial system. I'm not a fan of series run ducting because of the higher primary airflow rates and the noise from the attenuated valves closet to the unit. Also some have raised issues over cross-talk, the sounds transmitted from room to room via the interconnecting ducts.

Recovered heat energy, not the electrical energy to run it If you would have been discharging huge volumes of heated air to atmosphere with regular extractor fans, you would be sucking in cold air to replace it. The HR element of MVHR would be preheating the incoming air with the otherwise wasted heat carried 'out'. Some systems can recovery up to 18oC of the 21oC that is 'leaving'. It's a significant energy saver basically.

Unless you know what value that PRedV was commissioned / factory supplied at, I cannot comment on where the red pointer should reside. Pretty much what I said above so yes.

imist should be connecting to their own stopcock rising off the main, eg you should have the mains cold coming in and going to everything you have there atm, plus you should then also have a tee connection immediately PRIOR TO the existing stopcock feeding a lockable isolation tap, that then becomes the dedicated non-interruptible supply the mist system. No. It should be set to represent the pressure that the PRV restricts at, so basically it is a visual indicator that shows if the PRV has started 'passing' and needs servicing. If, for eg, it's a 3 bar PRV then move the red pointer to 3 bar and leave there. If the black pointer ever goes past the red, there is a problem.

Erm, no. The taped and filled joints are the only sensible option for this, with the tapes preventing the cracks coming through, and then filled to better blend one board into the next. As the boards are usually purchased in the smaller format to make them easier to handle ( good luck with 43kg's!! if you go 8x4 @12mm ) you'll have way more joints to manage, and a LOT of expensive waste product where you cut off and end up with square edges again. Butting these together and gluing will not be sympathetic to your type of walls, and trying to use FST and sand that out to an acceptable finish is just mind-blowing in terms of labour, repetition, and the astronomical amounts of dust that is created. From what I've seen, I strongly doubt you will be able install FC cheaper than PB and skim, unless you can live with a terrible looking painted and finished wall. PB and skim will give you a flawless finish with zero sanding and filling if the chosen 'spread' is a good 'un. We install strategic timber pattresses in walls where TVs / kitchen unis etc are being installed, and often plywood / OSB before PB in bathrooms so the shower and wall mounted items ( shower door etc ) plus accessories ( towel rails / loo roll holders etc ) can be retrospectively installed wherever you like. Other than that, there are plenty of good off-the-shelf solutions for affixing item to PB. Save the money on the FC and additional labour and finishing products and invest it into the labour for a plasterer. If your bill for labour only for plastering is £10k, how big is the house?!? The above info is from 1st hand experience where these were fitted to a service battened TF dwelling and 4" internal stud walls. The option for one individual was to abandon and revert to PB and skim, another stuck with FC and the FST and the job took forever, created a gargantuan amount of dust, and was not, after all that process, time, cost, a flawless finish at all.

Yup. Very handy when fitting in awkward spaces as the plumbing can be 'all front'. Remember to have sufficient space to get an immersion box spanner in and to be able to draw the full length of the immersion out for replacement. A 1hr job start to finish with an UVC, but a de-plumb / de-wire and palletised return-to-base for the entire unit with SA / thermino if their immersion fails.

The My Energy Eddi was specifically re-designed to work around the SA cold-start feature, where the heater element would initially pulse heat until it was up to a certain temp threshold to avoid damaging the PCM immediately surrounding the element, ( or nuisance tripping the manual overheat stat which was a popular repeat issue ). Once up to a certain temp the heating element would then latch for full uninterrupted charging. If a regular diversion controller was used, it just kept on switching off every time the heater stopped for each pulse as it assumed the heater was up to temp and no longer required input. I do not know if the cold start "feature" is still employed. SA always recommended the Eddi and it is a very good bit of kit. Nice comprehensive display, and once set up it's quite user-friendly. Recommended by many on here afaik. If you go for an UVC you could opt for a cheaper, dumber diversion controller, but some don't have the display / don't give much feedback. Choose which is best suited to how much feedback you'd like. I would deffo go dual immersion, with one set to max and receiving excess / diverted energy and the other on a basic timer so you have the option to 'over-charge' the UVC. Set the timer to heat ( selectively ) from the grid, storing only the minimum acceptable amount of DHW you need each day, and leave the deficit to be treated as a thermal battery accepting any excess. As stated, without seeing numbers, it's difficult to say if that would work immaculately, but you can get very close to 100% self-consumption with some thought ( and better understanding of your options ), but you don't want to end up like a steam locomotive driver, constantly twisting knobs and pulling levers to keep things in check. Keep asking questions!

@lakelandfolk Semd me a pm when you’re ready to purchase the UVC and I’ll make a call

Not at all. The benefit of dual immersion is that you can use one at 60oC to preheat at the 4/5 hours of octopus cheap rate, on a simple timer, and then have the second ( lower ) immersion set to 85oC and fed from PV excess. Any excess ( after the battery has topped up ) will just further ‘inflate’ the UVC, thus reducing the amount of grid power it consumes during the following overnight top up ( seasonal swings will affect how you manipulate this control ). During the depths of winter you could flip / flop between the two immersions to get more DHW per 4/5 hour charge and that will leave any solar free to help charge the batteries. Without your generation / consumption / export figures it is quite difficult to offer concrete solid answers / suggestions.

One such CEO is VERY active on a particular social media platform.........

A veritable jungle, very much in need of a total and in-depth read, re-read, and digestion. Regardless of fault, ( eg if the fault cannot be resolved by a call-out engineer ), the owner is responsible for the removal of ( DE-COMMISSION OF ALL PLUMBING AND ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS AND REMOVAL FROM THE RESIDENCE ), and the costs of transportation ( palletised ) to / from SA, and the re-installation of the unit. If this is your only source of DHW, then you will have a home which is inhabitable for that duration. "or ask you to return the product"....Deliciously shy on detail in that instance........ If you purchase outside of an approved installer, you will be subject to the terms and definitions, as set out by SA, and would likely be quoted "a non-standard installation" when refused your claim. For context, I went out to a property with a Telford UVC, some 5 years after its installation. It had failed and the owner asked me to come and replace it. I petitioned Telford and they DELIVERED FOC a replacement unit the following day, delivered by a courier they paid for, with the only condition given that they wanted the same delivery driver to be able to collect the failed unit at that same time. For further context, in 15+ years of being heavily involved in the heating and hot water industry, encompassing the installation and service of both unvented hot water cylinders and Sunamp units, I've only been back to the 2 aforementioned UVC's where the manufacturer paid up for one. Sadly, the number of failed SA units I was asked to attend to ( by both SA and the clients they refused to service ) is 'substantially' more. The message here is about the correct design and informed implementation of whatever your chosen DHW device is to be.

One where they did = 0.88 ACH One where they didn’t = 3.02 ACH The internal face of the entirety of the house interior is your AT junction. Each to their own tbh, as results are results, and if you get the result then the method you chose is the one to be happy with. Parge for DIY or when using plasterers for the first time, even more so when it’s their first time on an AT project. Much easier to explain and execute afaic, plus you can check / polish off any areas of doubt before the boards go on. 100% dot and dab with woodcrete ICF.

Anywhere you like 👍

MCS would have insisted on maintaining margins all around the perimeter, that's how I knew it wasn't an MCS install

And the ends of the strings which need the MC4's crimping? PROPERLY? And the risk of death when they try to do all this during the daytime with zero prior experience. BAD idea.....

Chill Winston.......your time will be coming soon. Then I will gladly kick the shit out of your idea! Oh, and never beg ok

Not an MCS installation? That's crammed in tighter than Brintey's postman!!

Minimum of £11k for a 4kWp system........

How did you get a price of £6k for 28kWh sized system?

Can you upload your plans? Not quite. Its the number of connected cells that dictates the discharge rate, which is then further 'choked' by the limit of the throughput of the BMS. It's the batteries that are the thing that slows down rates of charge and discharge. As above, no. Not very long! This will go up again after your initial 12 month contract with Octopus runs out. They will likely ask you to adopt a fixed rate tariff first, and then migrate you to the ToU tariff. The fixed will be >40p/kWh from the get-go. Correct. You would also be hammering the guts out the system every single day, so its lifespan would be reflected in that usage pattern. You would need to choose equipment that had a warranty based on unlimited throughput. Not even in the ball-park for a system such as the OP's requested capacity. Triple that, unless going for the cheapest of Chinese. @SBMS If AC coupled, have you yet done a DNO application? You would likely need a 3-ph solution, further increasing costs / complexity.

Deffo parge afaic, regardless of which woodcrete system. Just achieved 0.88 on one such build so "it can be done" Bolster that with Passive Purple / similar blower proof painted / brushed on ( liquid ) membrane for the tricky areas and junctions where timber meets ICF and you'll have great results. What stage are you in the build?

If you can convince yourself that you will self-consume at least the lions share of what you generate, then do as @ProDave @canalsiderenovation and others have done and DIY for as cheap as you possibly can. Any decent electrician should be able to do this from start to finish. Installing the trays / mountings etc couldn't be easier, but a roofer cannot run DC cabling and make off MC4's so I would not pursue that advice tbh.

For anyone not well versed in this, and for pretty much guaranteed results, this is a good option. Fast, good airtightness, and walls can be made arrow straight. Fortify this with tapes / membranes and you'll achieve great results.