Nickfromwales

My points in a nutshell.... ?

Exactly what I suggested via PM , categorically avoiding making any high points any higher.

I started off at 17, but it wasn't aggressive enough, so went to 16. I thought the hysteresis would be a problem if i went to 15, with the stat cutting out at 14, and back in again at 16. Trial and error atm. Also very difficult to manipulate this in the recent spate of uber hot weather. The UK is not "cooling friendly", that's the biggest issue. Add in a passive raft and extended decrement delay / very long thermal time constants etc and it's is ( IMHO ) near impossible to remove the 'human' element for ultimate control ( via prediction and reaction ).

Same issue I'm having hitting a sweet spot with a clients build...... Slab and house temps have such a slow response vs what the system "expects". Prevention vs cure is paramount criteria.

I’m installing Hager for one client, and have installed CPN, Contactum, MK and Wylex. Hager is good kit but expensive, and the Contactum seemed very good quality and plenty good enough quality / robustness etc so will go with one of those again. I’ve been installing Contactum for 20+ years, and I cannot recall a single issue. I’ve recently put the Defender CU in my shed / man-cave and have the previous one was their 3ph offering ( converted to 1ph ) which also impressed fore the money. Can’t recall where I heard it, but apparently MK are getting out of the domestic CU market, so maybe support will dwindle too. Defo all RCBO, that’s a no-brainier. Dual RCD boards should be removed from the market imo just on reliability / redundancy alone. Why we still accept losing all or half of the house for one failed device is beyond me. A cheap ( £25 ) emergency light in the same room as the CU / in the CU cupboard is a help if the ‘lights go out’. On a current domestic 4-storey project I am installing strategic emergency light fittings ( annoying green status LED hidden or located remotely btw ) so the client can get up / down stairs and main thoroughfares in a blackout plus another in the CU room.

It's a roof! Do you worry whilst it's pi55ing down with torrential rain for 24 hours? Nope. You turn the TV on and have a nice cup of tea. Time for a day off people!

You will always have a standing seam there, regardless of which layer is down first / second etc. The OSB is the base layer, then one section of membrane one level, and the outlet fold another.....and they must overlay each other which creates the 'dam'. When a roof is virtually flat there's zero you can do to make this immaculate.

Leave well alone, you’ll make it worse not better. A disaster it is not, and all it requires is your absence Get down off your roof and go to the pub. That’s an order!!

Bonjour! Plenty of info on here, you’ll just need to dig through a bit to get to the gold

No, it’s was 100mm ‘out’, not thick

Why not mount the pump at the source of the 22mm flow and return pipes instead of in the wall? It’ll be virtually silent then.

Yup. They’re basically good enough to be nigh-on constantly submerged, as is the case on a lot of flat roofs after rainfall. 👍

Duravit do their easy-clean coating called ‘wundagliss’ ( check spelling ).

Nothing to worry about. These joints are pretty much bombproof when sealed as per the manufacturer’s installation instructions. There are instances where skylights etc have external corners / up-stands etc, and we install PV with plates which have the welded edges 4 sides around. Upstands also occur at the bottom of flat roof areas, so all the water hits that uphill-facing edge too with zero detriment. It’s all good.

Have you spoken to the tiler about sequencing? The decoupling membrane certainly does get laid with tile adhesive, so how do you think it doesn’t? Is there a laitance on top of the liquid screed that needs to be mechanically scrubbed off? Do you know if it was a cementitious screed ( Flocrete ) or a Gypsum based screed?

I’m doing all my client installs with Hep2O and hot returns. Zero issues when installed robustly and deployed correctly. I did one install where just the HRC was in copper, but not done one in copper since…..just no need to in a domestic setting tbh. Continuous operation doesn’t occur as they’re typically timed or ‘pulsed’ on/off with suitable means of control ( eg a system designed specifically which provides the required mitigation ).

Ah, yes. Forgot about our secret in-house window-weapon. Thanks, much appreciated.

I’ll get on the phone Monday. Hopefully ex-stock and I can get it quickly. Thanks.

Most plumbers can’t wire up an S plan, so they come up with all sorts of incentive ways to dodge those mystical 5 wires of the zone valve….. For G3 you need fail safe on the controls. That is via the cylinder stat. An UVC is a potentially explosive device, and relying on just the boiler stat is a defo no-go. He’s not only careless, but he’s dangerous, and clearly doesn’t know the requirements of G3. Get him gone and get the system made safe plz!!

Yup, but surely outside in the meter box would be the safest / most sensible option for checks / visual confirmation vs being indoors and boxed in or with 16 coats of gloss over it?!?

Hi all. I'm trying to source 20mm Compacfoam ( or an equivalent product ) to be used for the installation of a 5m all glass slider. Need to create a thermal break at the threshold, as well as vertically up both sides of the slider for 5.4m rising ( long story, picking up a not-so-ideal-install off A.N.Other.... ). Deepest section would be 150mm - 180mm so looking ideally at buying an 8x4 sheet s cut into the sizes I need. The Green Build Store only sell Twix sized pieces so am looking at other options if anyone can help? TIA.

What's on the inside wall at that point? Anyone's guess tbh.

Incoming gas is a galv pipe above ground by the looks of it, and the supply to the house looks like copper. The requisite is to have the gas earth bond within the first 600mm of the outgoing gas pipe from the meter. For aesthetics, you could put this just inside the meter box to not have it 'on display'. If you are living in the house and have damaged the earth rod, this is a matter of immediate concern and should be fixed and checked asap.

Complete and total bollocks.

No certs for water or gas!?!?! You won't get signed off until your gas install is registered online with the GSR ( Gas Safe Register ). Have you finished paying the plumber? But of less use, it appears....