Nickfromwales

Timber frame the top half to be 15mm proud of the proudest part of the lower wall, then affix full boards, screwing the upper and dabbing the lower

Hi, and welcome! Lots to discover here with the search engine. Google searches for various topics usually brings you back here, and is reported to be a better mechanism

It's just a poor emitter tbh, vs what other options are normally employed with UFH. Expensive and cumbersome, with a lot of restrictions as to what can be applied directly atop. I'm into my 3rd decade installing various heating types, and this is the type that gets the most amount of comebacks from promises made / not kept.

He may have simply erred on the side of caution, in fairness It's only pioneering people like me, eg those who do trial and error, at my (their ) own expense and then run with what is known that will / did work, that can make these proclamations lol.

The gym ( SF ) shouldn't really need much heat, if any? To save money I'd just install the FF manifold at the SF level, take off an output to, but lay 50% less pipe for the SF, and run the pipes down to the FF as normal. Running 50% less pipe on the SF will reduce the heat output there and allow you to set the flow temp high enough to deal with what's required on the FF. Again, I doubt that will be much either tbh!! @Adsibob, I've gone down 2 floors on my current project, with zero issues whatsoever ( basic Welsh law's of physics applied; "what goes down must come up" ) and I've done this many times to rid a space of manifold(s), works perfectly well. Just keep the runs well below 100m and it'll work like a dream, saving the extra manifold, pump and mixer ( and having to find somewhere to locate it ).

The exhaust fan is typically only used to light a cold appliance, as once up to incineration temps the process of, then efficient, combustion is self-sustaining. Depends then whether you're a single burn hopper for bi-daily burns or track fed for continuous burn. Last one I specified / installed ( via a HETAS reg company ) worked very well, feeding a single 2600L Galu buffer tank ( @Roger440 there's no coils mate, the huge amount of heat energy wouldn't allow it so you just fire it in to the whole tank as fast as you produce it ) but this lot took up half of a single car garage! Also, it chewed through a barrow full of seasoned wood per single 'burn', but each burn took that buffer to 85oC and provided space heating for 24 hours in an old, leaky, listed, stone cottage. Ergo, the exhaust fan was needed every day to get the beast moving ( plus the Ladomat setup of course ).

Every UK home with a modern electrical system has 230v + RCD, which is good enough for all occupants to run / hold corded appliances etc every day for their whole life, not just the short duration of a build. Trades know better too, so should be responsible for their own safety ( not using damaged leads / keeping power and water separate etc ), and 230v will just become more popular on site as the extended range of peoples battery tools keeps getting added to and the line of chargers keeps getting longer. Welcome to 2023 big G

So many self builders just look at this as "something the big boys have to do", but the onus is absolutely on them. Preventing someones death, ( which includes that of a 5 year old child you've never met or ever even seen before, who has found a loose fence panel to wander through and then falls to their death on YOUR private property ) is on YOUR head, and no other. Some scary shit I kid you not. A lot of the self proclaimed self builders I meet seem to think project management is; go to Screwfix, buy hi-vis and hard-hat, job done order skips make phone calls to find folk to do the work stay up late every night trying to beat the prices they gave them, whilst failing to cost / get the correct stuff, and pissing these people off at the same time when they turn up and cant work that day ask pissed off people to go get the right stuff, which now has cost you 160% of what the original cost would have been. choose colours for pretty things celebrate when you bring the job in; on time, on budget, or not......... @Drellingore Hi, and welcome to the forum. Strap yourself in, as you will get straight talking from folk here who have done this, got the T shirt, and who also got things wrong but were selfless enough to document their journeys ( warts and all ) for folk like yourself to benefit from. I think you are nuts starting this company, and you are very unsure of your actual VAT status. FYI, an accountant is not the best font of knowledge in this respect, so maybe defer to the services of "The VAT man", a paid online consultant who will give you the facts. Others may be available, this is the only one I've heard feedback from. 110v or 230v, matters not a single jot If the 230v supplies are from a certified source with a proven ( tested ) earth protected circuit, then you can use either perfectly acceptably and safely. I always install a 110v transformer and 110v festoon lighting for each of my projects, from start to finish, but zero other 110v items are necessary. 230v will always be required, as trades will need several outlets to plug all their chargers into. Hope this helps.

Leave the mixers alone? Just drop the ASHP flow temp down, and the mixers will always, then, be the 'safety' cap on the max input into the floors. Opening the mixers to 6 is unnecessary.

What pitch is the roof? Low enough to mandate standing seam / EDPM?

Only good for a day or so of storage. The unit bench tests well, but add the connective pipework and the losses soon shoot up.

"A few heads better than one"

A crane to lift an immensely heavy weight a very short distance seems a good idea. That stored energy will last until you release the brake. Airbag powered lift under a summer patio via a compressor. Electrical energy into storage, then returned via a HP to multiply x4 on the return. Or; Other such lunacy? Am I a Boffin yet?

Time for a scrap. I was Transit for 3 gens, ending up in a LWB 140 which shot along, until the hugely unreliable bag-of-shit blew up. £0000's spent and ended up scrapping it. Bought a '64 plate Merc Sprinter 316, and I would never change away from it. 210,000 on the clock; no smoke, no noise, and still goes like stink and drives like a car. You're not supposed to be touching up your mascara as you go! ffs

Seems a 'light on' moment has been arrived at here @Thorfun, Did your contractor install clean grade 3 or clean hardcore all around the basement? eg free-flowing / draining material? Just wondering how easy it is for the water to get from higher to lower ground as it surrounds / travels 'through' the area consumed by the basement. I never even though to ask about this tbh! Got way too bogged down looking towards a solution to pump this away reliably.

I use the Illbruck 330 foam to insulate where other materials are impractical / impossible to install effectively.

That's the best part about the kind of members that Buildhub attracts, giving in equal amounts of what's taken away. . There's always someone who's worse off too! Not the end of the world, fortunately.

You can get the Ubink 125x 4x 92mm manifold, convert to multiples of smaller 92mm ducts to get through the pinch-point, and do the same to get back again.

The horse has arrived at water, drinking to commence imminently.....

You don't buy a dog and bark yourself! Speak to Zoeller tech support and throw this on their table? @pocster, did you use this facility / did they offer suport?

So, is this filled with sand / granite ? Apples for apples?

You can lead a horse to water, eh?

There, you said it......

Mercury; https://www.switchelectronics.co.uk/35-mercury-tilt-switch-12-5a-240v-s1116?gclid=Cj0KCQiAnsqdBhCGARIsAAyjYjT9ezoKqt5bEMJbKFcBV5HaeLLDrNzWCMBpD7E8QKxJ41rKRPETkTwaAjYbEALw_wcB Reed; https://www.switchelectronics.co.uk/no-reed-switch-aluminium-body-spst-ctc012

Can you get these which use a reed switch or mercury? Much more reliable.