Nickfromwales

In a new electrical installation, but no policeman is going to put cuffs on to anyone with gas fries with no alarms in an existing dwelling / install. However, if a GSR'd engineer attends site, they really shouldn't undertake any works unless they've at least included this addition / upgrade in their fees. There are some things you just do NOT step around because "you can". On a previous major renovation I insisted that the client accepted my costs for replacing every existing smoke / heat detector in the house, even though they appeared to be working, as they just looked dusty and tired. When I explained why and the minimal costs they agreed and thanked me for my diligence. Some things are just a good idea, regardless of regs etc

+1. They're 'beefed up' to just be inserted as is. All good .

Run the basin waste in 40mm until it rises vertically at the basin. That's longer than I'd ever run with 32mm tbh. I always take 40mm as close to the basins as is practicable. Pennies of cost for much better performance / longevity. 32mm starts to 'furr' up sooner than you'd think. As there's a long horizontal run you'll have a natural air break, so pointless fitting and anti-vacuum trap on the basin. Other than that, happy days. Identical to what I've done on my clients build, just the W/M is a water softener and MVHR waste.

The barrier is placed there to preserve it . I have always put a sacrificial layer of EPS down, and then the DPM / barrier atop that, then the remainder of the insulation down after that. Stops the membrane getting punctured by errant sharps etc. In a nutshell, but no more accuracy than everything else needs! You can fit them flush, but it's really not necessary to be able to power float over them as the floor at these locations isn't usually "on show" anyways. A quick trowel by the slab guys is all that's required there, so I usually leave them through and exposed. Wrap them in cling film or other thin membrane and circle with expanding foam from insulation > FFL, but only for anywhere where you may need some wiggle room. Areas for the showers etc get heavily shuttered out as it's 15 mins to back-fill or a day of back-breaking work to machine out. I know which one I prefer

Defo. That's all I ever do. I've never taken a small bore waste out through a raft, and never will.

You do NOT want to have small bore waste pipes going down and exiting the slab. You need to bring 110mm runs in, in the subbase, and then have 110mm pipe rising vertically, then reducing down in the upper portion of the slab. PVC waste pipe and UG 110mm pipe are two very different materials / beasts, so an absolute "NO" to bringing these out of the foundation, if subterranean.

Spot on All gas-burning appliances need to be lit simultaneously, with all internal and external doors shut and all windows closed. Then each open flue appliance needs to have a smoke match lit and then the spillage viewed in each room / space. ONLY then, and after the written side has been also been complied with, can you state anything other than "I don't know" ( because you don't know ). Why not change these fires to room sealed / balanced flues? Are they all on outside walls?

You simply drop blocks of 100mm EPS into the slab, prior to the pour, as shuttering. If it's too complex an area to do that, then I just fill the area with sharp sand and get the concrete poured up to / against that. Then use Henry to suck the sand out after the pour, sort the trays / wastes etc, and then back-fill with cementitious SLC or a sloppy concrete mix, whichever works. Tie down any EPS shuttering blocks VERY well as they'll really want to rise during the pour.

You only need foul ( solids / food waste ) having line of sight of the inspection chamber, and having clear running ( other bathing / waste ) water branching in ( with Y branches ) is perfectly acceptable.

Yup. Relegated to the "cock-womble" shelf. I would say a "moron", but don't wish to fall onto my own sword lol. At least I can't hang myself......as I've just been to the rope shop and it's just all recently been snapped up by someone.

I can’t remember who does the one I was discussing, but I can find out 👍. I discuss a LOT of stuff each week, and just the one brain lol, sorry 😵‍💫

Congrats!! Most of the help, support and advice you'll need is either already written here, or can be discussed as and when. Please do not worry about adding to older threads, as it's good to blow the dust off things. All the best of luck for the journey ahead. Ask first, then jump , but, so far, so good.

There are 3ph diversion controllers available. I looked at one for my current 2 projects, where there is / is going to be 3ph on site with sizeable PV systems installed.

I dealt with Ryan at their head office, after some installer issues, and he was exceptional in his actions / support / resolve. I cannot speak highly enough of them.

That is Dovista?

You self built ( in the truest meaning though ). Doubtful that it would be the same for anyone who can’t physically build it themselves or are in the trade with good contacts / knowledge etc.

The perfect solution to the OP's issue? The job's yours . Let me show you to your office.

Good lad. We will not, of course, accept your word for it. Please post photos here for "authentication". We will make allowances for it being cold when we score you. Don't forget to insulate them. You never know when you'll need to add "air con" ( not cooling ) from an A2W HP

Yup. It's quite a simple process to test, just a little tedious when you're balancing as you need to keep going around, and back on yourself, as altering one valve then affects the others. I just looked for a ventilation ( strategic ) partner who was PH certified, as some of the others are not, and for good reason.

Google 'delta T', and get a reality check on where the dew-point would be. I'm not sure what books you've been reading and researching from, but I'd avoid the fiction section from now on.

As you have technically not yet broken any of the rules of this forum, we can't really ban you. Plus, have you ever heard the phrase "give them enough rope"? Also, this is just pure gold, keep them coming. 😆 I've not laughed this much since Auntie Mabel caught her left tit in the mangle. @Kelvin Could I please refer you to the T's & C's, section 69, item 69, subsection 6-9, where it clearly states "thou shalthst ( spelt correctly, I checked ) not engage-eth in the medieval act of the browning of the nose". This is a grandfather clause, often overlooked, so if you wish to avoid a permanent ban from Buildhub I urge to to take all of today, and 37.4592% of Sunday ( not this Sunday, but the one after next, and I'll be checking ) to properly familiarise yourself with our policies. I expected better of you tbh. 🙄

Not that I care to waste any of my valuable personal time responding to such a nonsense response, but what exactly do you consider "rude". I asked you two very simple questions, and, if you want help, maybe you should read between the lines and answer them so you can receive said help. Folk on here reply to help people for free, on a forum which is free to join, so, IF you wish to jump down, momentarily, off the highest horse I've seen for quite some time, I would be happy to answer you questions. For definition; A "moron" would install a system which was not properly designed and installed as fit for purpose, so if I was the kind of person to make any assumptions or be "rude" to you, my question in my first reply would have read "What MORON designed this system where they didn't define the parameters or install it fit for purpose?", and then, referring to someone as a moron would be fine and appropriate. 👍 For further clarity, I am NOT referring to you as the moron, yet, as I do not know if you were said moron or not. Once I have ascertained who the moron actually is, then I will engage, with all of my many years of dealing with morons, my retort. Usage of Moron The terms idiot, imbecile, moron, and their derivatives were formerly used as technical descriptors in medical, educational, and regulatory contexts. These uses were broadly rejected by the close of the 20th century and are now considered offensive. As we like to offer comprehensive replies here at Buildhub, please be aware that, rather embarrassingly, your attempt to insult me is actually about a century out of date. You may need to go to another forum to get some up to date material. OK, so lets assume you did come here fore free help, I will rephrase my questions to you as follows. Should have read; Please could you tell me if the already installed ductwork has been insulated? Are you aware that there is a huge difference between air con and cooling? There you go, and hopefully this makes up for me upsetting you so much by trying to help you, for free, in my spare time. Please also be aware, that If you can't get a reasonably speedy and satisfactory answer here, then please go and employ a system designer, who will take money from you in return for the answers you seek. Kind regards, Nick.

To read the above replies, lol. You won’t get answers that carry any weight on any forum, and if someone does answer you then you can’t use what they say anyways, so you’re just wasting your time, sorry. Go ask your BCO or employ a drainage engineer. Simples. You will need to part with some money to get what you need, that’s not going to change.

I know when I’ve drunk enough beer, sir, as my shirt gets warm ( from me dribbling onto myself in my sleep ) 👍

This is a wheel which does not need to be re-invented! is present in a badly designed and executed installation. Zero or near-zero audibility on my installs is a No.1 priority.