Nickfromwales

Aye. It’s time for a new one! 😑

Probably OSB trays with pipes laid in a pug ( biscuit ) mix screed @ProDave may have detailed this on his blog(?). If too intrusive, you could use aluminium spreader plates. The focus on detailing here needs to be about making the void 'warmer' and less drafty, so fully filling the width with PIR and foaming the gaps will be a good place to start. I fear this system is currently wasting a LOT of the available heat energy keeping these layers of wood warm, with little then left to rise upwards as space heating. The installer hasn't looked into this properly, and therefore hasn't mitigated against these associated ( accumulative ) losses when working out what's needed. You could go back to rads upstairs, but they'd need to be huge.

A 1/4 turn valve or a proper mains stopcock? Pic please.

Is this one hole for a single ~50mm service, or do you need a transit for multiple cables / small bore pipes?

If you have a means of cooking, eg an oven, then no.

I doubt they are in a rush..... Constant remote-controlled grid charge / discharge beats the crap out of your battery. You get to replace it at your cost, they walk away the better in the end. IIRC Tesla have the gateway, a costly item and a very slow changeover from grid down to UPS on. Much better hybrid stuff out there for a LOT less money.

I doubt they are in a rush..... Constant remote-controlled grid charge / discharge beats the crap out of your battery. You get to replace it at your cost, they walk away the better in the end. IIRC Tesla have the gateway, a costly item and a very slow changeover from grid down to UPS on. Much better hybrid stuff out there for a LOT less money.

I doubt they are in a rush..... Constant remote-controlled grid charge / discharge beats the crap out of your battery. You get to replace it at your cost, they walk away the better in the end. IIRC Tesla have the gateway, a costly item and a very slow changeover from grid down to UPS on. Much better hybrid stuff out there for a LOT less money.

I doubt they are in a rush..... Constant remote-controlled grid charge / discharge beats the crap out of your battery. You get to replace it at your cost, they walk away the better in the end. IIRC Tesla have the gateway, a costly item and a very slow changeover from grid down to UPS on. Much better hybrid stuff out there for a LOT less money.

Does the white GRP enclosure reside within? If so, I can't see a problem. I've seen much worse!

That UFH system is “less than suitable”. There…..I didn’t say “bag of shit”. Gold star for Nick

This will be leaking behind the base of the chrome wall channel also. The installer of the bath and wall panels should have left you with a continuous bead of sealant right along and across the bath / wall junction, with it visible at the outside edge of the chrome wall channel. Issue is, water runs down the inside of the chrome wall channel, and capillary action pulls the water inside that ‘box’ section. That then flows down to the bottom of the inside of the box, and the only way out is to drain into the gap between the bath and wall ( under the base of screen wall channel and completely out of sight ). The number creator of almost 100% of the insurance work I used to get given.

Not a chance sorry.

In this type of dwelling, the 1st floor joist voids will be notorious for ventilation heat loss aka drafts. I’m afraid all the heat is likely getting literally sucked out of there by the joists bring cut into the internal leaf of the block wall. This may have been refurbished with a not-so-good eye in terms of accepting UFH as the only heat emitters. The carpets are your enemy also, could you accept a bonded, engineered wooden floor up there, at least in the worst affected rooms? ( eg leave the landing carpeted ). Exactly which product was used and exactly how was it installed for the 1st floor?

That means a attaining a very ( very ) good AT score? That would be sub 0.6ACH with 1.0 being quite admirable.

If it’s an RS ( room sealed ) appliance, yes. Look to see if it’s a coaxial flue ( pipe in pipe ).

Pausing is relatively cheap and bloody effective! Feel free to come back and stir the embers

Typical architects stab lol. Shading will be a huge issue if they end up mounted that way...

I was expecting rows of digits etc. Ground averagely permeable, not 'water-logged'. So EPS box and pipes inside good as anything? Pre-insulated pipe would be north of £5k, was thinking home-made would halve the cost ( assuming trench dug either way, just dug a wee bit more to allow for the EPS is chicken-feed once there and at it ).

OK. So, for a potential project I am considering what could be a good idea, or it could also be the 'other kind' of idea.... @SteamyTea / others, sharpen your best pencils please. I would like to install ~50m of 4x 25mm 'cores' pre-insulated pipe EXAMPLE in a trench of X depth ( assuming 750mm-1000mm atm ) carrying central heating flow and return and DHW + DHW/HRC. This would be to supply services to an single residential annex from a centralised, remote plant room. Assume bags of available heated water from a remote but local ~1000L buffer tank fed from a large oil boiler. No room in the annex for any kind of cylinder / tank etc, so ideally I wanted to pipe the ( already available ) significantly sized services via an umbilical aka district type arrangement as that seems the obvious route atm. I've ruled out a PHE due to the much higher flow temps that would be required to go a-la 'full district' setup; eg via a 2-pipe umbilical pipe arrangement + PHE for DHW, and the fact that the buffer would need to be heated all year round just to give the annex DHW. Summer ideally wants to see the oil boiler and its buffer tank hibernating, ergo the full district setup seems unsuitable / non-cost-effective. The large plant UVC will be kept hot 24/7/365 from an oil boiler + strategic electrical injection via immersion(s) on TOU + Solar PV excess being used to offset DHW running costs; standing losses of UVC plus losses from umbilical. ( 4kWp of existing solar, likely to be upscaled to 8 or 12 if 3ph becomes available ). Annex ( relatively small ) will be lived in all year round ( retired occupants ). Crappy retrofit UFH to GF and brand new convector rads FF. Old stone cottage with OK 2G doors / windows, it is what it is. Will be improved over time, I'm told. I will need to convey; CH flow and return - flow temp assume 65oC . DHW + HRC - 'flow' temp assume 55oC ( will be a fair bit higher in summer I expect, with the source UVC boosted by PV divert ). 30 year proposal / running costs to meet. Q; I am specifically after a bit of help understanding the expected heat losses from the umbilical insulated pipe, please. Options would be; stick with the pre-insulated pipe, burying it in the ground in a 300mm wrap of sharp sand, as is. stick with the pre-insulated pipe, boxing it ( 4 sides around ) inside an EPS 'trunking' ( 100mm thickness or more ) with subsequent air gaps foamed, eg to further reduce losses as best practicable. ditch the uber expensive pipe, do these runs in Hepworth aka Hep2o, insulate them manually with 25mm wall Armaflex, and box them inside 200mm thick EPS trunking + foam open to other better / more cost-effective methods etc lend of a scientific calculator plus simplified instructions for use........ Silence in the room please, the exam has now started.

.......soaking up valuable pasty-munching time........ You like maths, so; You'll see me tag you elsewhere shortly .

Cheers, not noticed / considered that tbh. Another good idea to add to the arsenal Give yourself the rest of the day off, with full pay.

Why? Spend the money on beer or whatever other happiness-inducing activity puts a smile on your face!!!

Not while I've got a hole in my you-know-what......🤢🤮 They are horrible things, block open with lint / dust etc, and flap back and forth on windy days sounding like you've got bobby-knockers in your bathroom. They also do not stop warm air being 'pulsed' out of the room every time there's positive air being blown into the house. "That kind of money" will save you £££ in heating costs. Just ask if you can pay a pound a week Stop quibbling, get yourself down to TLC / other, and go make the magic happen. Don't forget the timer module is a separate item so you'll need that too ( when you go and buy one.... )