Nickfromwales

Was the smallest one he could buy, and installed at wall > ceiling junction height.

Nope, just a friend who put one up and used it whilst in his home office. Decided it was 'terrible' and swapped back to his oil-filled convector radiator, iirc. Would be good to get feedback from people who have fitted these throughout for 'central heating' on the advice of "experts"..

You should have 22mm pipe from the cold stopcock, all the way to the last cold water T-off before the combi, and only reduce to a 15mm cold feed from there > combi. That will give the combi "cold mains priority".

For 7m 10mm would suffice, but won't give the welly that 15mm would. The issue with manifold systems is the large bore pipework upstream, so folk / other plumbers may not factor in getting that additional volume of dead leg out and thorough the small bore pipe, also. As for the above drawing, why do you have a manifold tap feeding the 2 downstream manifolds separately? Why not just use a 4-port for the hot and put the DOC ( drain off cock ) on the end of the manifold; with a 3/4" x 1/2" bush and a 1/2" threaded DOC. The 2 outlets "front" and "rear" will be restricted to the output of "garden" so is not the best layout IMHO.

My work colleague had one at his station ( mini-home office ) and had to bin it as his eye-lids were drying out and his skin was breaking up. Horrible things IMO. The rep's are just pre-programmed commission seekers in most instances, but there are a few on the shows where they are impartial and open / honest and I have passed / received work with these accordingly, with great results. There is snake oil everywhere, and will be for the rest of time.

They will likely use trading names to disjoint the company names from the name of the company(s) people will see / connect with. Quite telling interesting that 2 companies have needed to have been formed....

After the meter it's yours. Before the meter it's the DNO's. Simple.

Yup. I've seen the tape systems, but if you are tiling then you either need these applied to the rear surface of the item that is to be sealed and then to offer that back to the wall ( or often walls ) which is a PITA. I've been fitting bathrooms for over 25 years, prob a bit more tbh, and good old sealant and tanking wins every time for me. A lot of stuff on YT is promotional / sponsored / non-impartial. I get quite fed up with some of the vid's, so rarely go on it tbh.

@Big Jimbo to tag a member ( as I've done and you see it in a blue bubble ) just type an @ sign and then ( no spaces ) the first couple of letters of their username. Select from the drop down box as it appears. The member will get a notification that you have "mentioned them" in a post too. .

You........did.........WHAT!? 😱

My clients found a no win no fee agent who got their £11k quote down to £6k. His fee was 10 or 20% ( cant recall ) of the saved sum.

Everything before the meter is DNO responsibility, so you won't ask anything of the fitters other than "would you like a cup of tea?" Do not start off by saying "please fault my sub-standard home!". Just leave them to it.

The exact reason why I have a digger arriving anytime now, so I can 'sink' the room a bit / have less visual impact for the neighbours etc. I'm going to stay 1m away from the boundary and build at or just under the 30m2 rule, as 15m2 just isn't going to give me the space I need. I'll make the roof overhang though, and I'll have a decent maintenance path around the sides and rear, with cover, so it'll be less of a loss tbh. I need to be able to get around for maintenance anyhoo, but at least I'll be drip-dry during the rain.

Yes to that. Every single PV install my chap has done ( for my private clients and a bunch of members on here ) have all met or exceeded the stated expectations, so there is "definitely something in the MCS water" . You can, but you'll spend 20 years paying them off. There's a company that takes full panels and cuts them down / reinstates the circuitry / re-frames them to suit. The price is £OUCH

What?!? There was a thread on here with more than 1 page? Give over

SBR retains a better 'tack' than PVA, and you're only supposed to skim over 'tacky' primer, and defo not dry / cured PVA.

I've never heard this being an issue, but @nod is the master of plaster so wait until he chips in My spreads just add a little more water to the first set and crack on tbh.

In a nutshell, exactly what I was thinking, just it's the kind of thing that will require skill, engineering and determination. Otherwise it's pointless adding crap on crap at cost. Oh, and a lifetime supply of baby-wipes to get the CT1 off everything, including yourself!!

Need multiple inputs for2 strings of panels, batteries, generator and mains. Working out configurations in the background with some solar buddies, in my ‘spare’ time.

I’ve not purchased yet. I’m just about to do a slab for the garden studio / office where most of my panels will reside. The one I’m fancying is; https://www.sunsynk.org/8kw-hybrid-inverter

I always use Hepworth. These isolators ( the manifold ones ) are great, and never need servicing. You cannot use them to attenuate / restrict flow by opening them partially. It’s either on or off though, otherwise they’re noisy. When open 100% they’re virtually silent.

Nope. Sorry. The opening needs to be reduced eg so the bath is touching against the untiled wall, sitting on battens which are smothered in CT1, and then the bath gets set into that, filled with water, then whilst everything is still wet you apply more CT1 down into the remainder of the gap and finish it flush with the topside of the bath. Leave for 24hrs, empty the bath, tile, wait 24hrs, fill the bath and grout. Leave 24hrs. Empty bath and silicone seal for cosmetics. CT1 does the fundamental sealing / leak proofing. Can you strip the tiles off the part side wall and leave the tap end and long side alone? Is the room tiled throughout? Or just around bath?

Kudos to @Rob99

Twice the fecking price, that’s why lol!! I’ll be north of 12.5kWp but as it’s fragmented I can push the 8.8kW inverter to 140% without issue. Doubt very much I’ll ever see as much as 10kW at the inverter at any one given time.

I have to, as there will be 4 separate 'arrays', with a fragmented mix of SE / SW / SSE and E to give me as long a solar day as possible. I'll look at that blog, thanks, appreciated.