Nickfromwales

Time is expensive, and has a specific value to the right self builder. Quick build = less rental costs.

Was the overheat recognised in the PHPP analysis? If so, what % did they give this, and was it a general analysis or room by room? I’m managing a 5% “risk” with air handling units on the MVHR for a current (certified) PH clients build. The idea being that prevention neutralises the need for the cure. This one doesn’t have a huge amount of glazing though to be fair. Yours therefore may be north of 7%which would likely mandate A/C, but as PH gives with one hand, it takes with the other. As always, there’s nothing for nothing and a compromise often needs to be struck. Was your MVHR ductwork insulated for the fresh air supplies to rooms? If you do go A/C, I doubt 10kW is massively oversized tbh, and it may be beneficial to have that headroom for cooling, with the added benefit that these will give a smudge of heating too. Most rooms / spaces which need cooling “could do with a little bit of auxiliary heat” in the depths of winter. PH is a bit of a merry dance, with the perfect balance often just out of reach.

Random internet grab = https://springvale.com/ecobead/ Ask on here for possible recommendations for installation companies.

🤦‍♂️ If elevated above the known (historic information) flood levels, then anything can be built as it will never see flood waster. Neither has to be "expensive". EPS - based ICF would seem to fit the bill, but vermin protection would be an issue, so would fire-proofing the EPS. Block undercarriage would defo be the best option here, as the flood defence/ platform, then build whatever you like on top

150mm of blown, bonded beads?

Yup. You won’t notice it in the length, only IF you walked side to side. Lay off the pop and you’ll be alright.

These would need to be hinged "flappers"

Yup. And the "slope" is sub 20mm over 900mm which only a spirit level will notice. If you fit an 1100mm tray you'd better tank the room underneath too! That is a VERY small room to not have a shower screen, even a flapper panel (or 2). Is this the kids room or yours? Doing this in the kids room would be suicide.

In that case, the shorter tray is a BIG mistake.

Poor design of the running gear if it can’t retain the chuffing lubricant! 6 months for a full window MOT is a real PITA. I could understand with big sliders, but not with windows / regular doors etc.

Did you intend putting a shower door on here?

Problem here is that the block & beam floor will need to be SLC'd before the floor is anywhere near uniform enough to do away with a screed.

Concrete or "dry" screed? If you get stuck, you can try my guy. You'll just need to be ringing sooner than later with ANY contractor atm as the norm is 8-12 weeks minimum lead time with anyone decent at their job. Defo 2 wagons with that quantity if dry screed, especially if it turns out to be a warm / hot day.

Biggest culprit is the generation meter having been cabled arse-backwards. If your confident, turn off all isolators (after sundown) and take the cover off the meter. Send some pics and tell us which cables are from solar and which are from the CU.

It's 2023 mate. £5 P&P and I could be eating that after my lunch tomorrow.

You have manual levers on the valves so you can manually operate them for filling and draining, but for them to be used (with just a 13a plug if you want) that's fine, just you MUST energise these so they open 100%. The manual levers only open them around 10-15% ergo you'll have shit flow through them. You're going with the valves. Don't make me come down there 💪.

Not a sensible choice, as you’ll be paying more than the price of the valves in another visit. Plus, it may as well only be drained down once. Go without food, buy the valves. Simples!

I just quickly amended the link, as I first linked a 3 wire unit and you need a 5 wire unit(s). That link is sound if you want to order these. Cheaper than the PlumbingSuperstore (AKA JTM Plumbing) too!!

https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-v4043h1106-u-2-port-motorised-valve-28mm-28mm-compression/40705?tc=ET2&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQjwj_ajBhCqARIsAA37s0yvv53xnxJzJUITu9KDNeych3N2aLa6BFjubSNJxYbxeE5-ZmBygvUaAsP7EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I think your pipework is 28mm, just check to see if it reduces after the first manifold and goes down to 22mm. If so, adjust to the second ZV being 22mm not 28mm. You can put the both where the 28's T off so all your wiring is local to the first pump / first manifold, eg the second ZV doesn't need to be at the second manifold (so no running of more cables for no reason) Tell your guys about the planned inclusion of the ZV's, as it will provoke a little tweak of the wiring, plus the inclusion of 2x wireless stats (if you want to get them fitted now it would probably be more economical for them to nut this in one sitting vs multiple visits / retrospectively adding them).

Just insist on a 2-port motorised zone valve being fitted to each manifold, as they can be connected to room stats and you can at least turn one off whilst the other still runs etc, but not without zone valves on each manifold.

In a nutshell.

Yup. I never design like this, especially if it’s over different floors in the same heated envelope. Your guys are relying solely on the ASHP to maintain the global flow temp which is the temp that each floor then receives. Hopefully they won’t act too differently,

Nope. That blending set isn’t suitable for flow temps sub 30°C. Do not install that. The one I linked goes accurately down to 20°C.

I’m just unsure how the different sections of the house will each behave, if they are sent one flow temp. You’d typically be running much cooler temps in upstairs (GF) vs the basement which may require higher flow temps to meet the same ambient. Just seems a bit indiscriminate to me, but could all work perfectly by ‘accident’ or design.