Nickfromwales

They only float if it is a liquid screed that's seeped under. Dry screeds or Flowcrete won't be anywhere near as problematic.

Ouch. 4 years is a bloody short lifespan!! I'd review what you ask this to do, and reconsider some auxiliary space heating, maybe from A2A so you have some A/C too? At least you'll still have the benefits of a heat pump, but something is either wrong with the design and execution or the equipment was crap. I take it this is a passive house and there is no wet UFH?

We do these things because we can.

Yup. I'll end up with a few fragmented arrays feeding into 2 strings, so I will defo be going wither 2 panels 1 Tigo, or if I can get a trade deal 1 for 1. I don't have much tech in my life tbh, so this will "please me", and I am happy to pay for that, regardless. Prob add less than a grand all up, including monitoring. Less if I can go dual.

LOL

It's the brick-layer that keeps the cavity clean Plus the batts do not fully fil the void so crap will still fall down it if there's poor house-keeping on site. Most decent builders don't let too many snots / debris get into the bottom of the cavity, but the cavity often goes substantially lower than DPC to allow for some crap to go down and collect.

Your time will come.

You can buy a dual Tigo which does 2 panels with one device.

Cheap isn't free is it You're also missing a trick here. I'd do nothing until V2G comes to life, and dump all this money and effort into an EV. You'll then have nigh-on 100% self-consumption and the house then plugs into the car. For your situation, and the amount of PV you have, an EV with V2G and no domestic battery is the money shot (subject to you being able to afford one of the smaller bi-directional EV's when the time comes). Or you install batteries now, use them for the decade or so you'll get before they snuff it, and THEN go EV on V2G and not replace the domestic batteries. Can't you swap the car to a used hybrid? That would make bucket-loads of sense right now.

Sounds sensible, all good! The flood risk survey will likely be required for insurances also, so 2 birds with 1 stone there.

ToughButterCup Members 10.3k Location: Junction 33 M6 Posted February 2, 2021 · IP Yes, @FM2015, woodcrete ( the generic name for Durisol I take it?) is leaky and does allow water into it, unless covered up properly In terms of water tightness, Durisol - on its own - is a bit like a Land Rover 90 : water leaks out of it as fast as it leaked in in the first place. If you don't control ingress - water is on its way in. I have a small Piggery (now used as a wash-house and store) which has no cladding or water ingress control at all. It shows some evidence of damp having been there, but for a utility room its fine. Cover it with Cloeber Permo Forte Quattro and some nice open cladding and the problem will disappear. Well, it has in the main house. In terms of air tightness, I think I have slipped up: better said, not had the bandwidth to focus on that issue as closely as I would have liked. Time will tell. My office (where I am now) is in part of the house where there is no outside or inside parging or plastering. I can actually feel the draft when the wind is in the right direction. No water ever gets to the office wall because it's under a large canopy (5m by 3m) . But the wind does whistle in. Leave the room, shut the door, and the rest of the house (fully parged and plastered) is stiller, warmer, quieter. Sucking my teeth about the air test......?

Hi. You can lose at least 30mm of concrete (assuming a steel reinforcing mesh will be utilised) but the PIR is on the limit. How much thickness have you allowed for type 1 and sand?

Hi. How long had the system been in and running for, before it gave up the ghost? I think it would be prudent to rule out poor system design (overworking the unit(s)) before suggesting you replace like for like with a modern / alternate product.

As stated by others, there's a fair amount of recoverable energy from air (or water) at 0oC, so 6oC is defo worth further exploration afaic. If the water is fast flowing then even more reason to go for that. I have to tell you to make sure that you apply for an abstraction license, or at least ask if you need one, or i'll risk getting pulled over failing to do so.

Yup. The AV guy on one site was looking at me in disbelief when I suggested using 2-core flex for the speakers. The fact that I'd wired up many night-clubs / colleges etc previously, whilst working for established sound installation companies who used nothing other than that type of cable for decades, wasn't something/I felt he would appreciate. The cable he got the OP to buy was £tear-inducing. Doubt you'd actually hear the difference over short runs tbf.

All I need is dumb, proportional output. I'll have a look to see if it's a single or dual 'channel' as per the Eddi.

Thanks. I'll have a look at those for my house if the price is better.

Straight in with these my friend. For showers with a 3/4" entry you just wind a brass reducing bush in first, then these 1/2" fittings wind into those.

Also look at what difference V2G will bring about, as this will likely make a lot of domestic batteries nigh-on redundant eg for anyone who works from home / is retired etc. You would be plugging the house into the car then and not the other way around!

What a kerfuffle! I'm not a big fan of these re-invented wheels.

You'd need to do the maths meticulously to be honest. Tariffs seem to be starting to favour the consumer these days, and I expect that to continue to improve. If you install any cylinder you'll benefit immediately from excess diversion to DHW, so the question then is how much bigger do you go to get maybe 24hrs of DHW from an cheap nights (or days) grid juice. If you're able to track agile and use that to your advantage, then a dual immersion setup will allow you to rapidly heat the cylinder from much shorter windows of low rate availability. I'm assuming you'd need to buy the diversion controller too, so you'll be happy to know that the My Energy Eddi will give proportional power out to 2 loads, consecutively. So you could heat the upper immersion first, and then the lower one after that has been satisfied. They only do 1x 3kW throughput over 2 outputs, but not simultaneously. A relay card can be added but that is 100% on or 100% off, vs the proportional output from the factory offering.

500 will tent. Use thinner. Could you explain, please?

Yup. They literally 'suck'. In more ways than one. Folk who have used / are using them, please feel free to ask how I/"we" got some bloody good results for airtightness and made the best of the product. It just took a lot of time, effort and ultimately money. I will offer up help as much as I offer up the above highlighting of these very real issues.

Is the pipework down already? If so, you'll need a much lighter membrane (1200 or so) otherwise the membrane will tent over the pipes and not envelop them. This will lead to poor heat transfer from pipe > screed / other. You lay that in lots of sections rather than one large area and tape after it's been tucked in as best as possible.

The woodcrete is like a non branded breakfast cereal for sure. The rain hitting the building up high heads south, that starts to saturate the "air pockets" which then fill with water and occupy that pore. Then as this carries on south over 1 or 2 stories the water then finds itself wanting a way out. That's gravity and a bit of capillary action at its best. The blocks which have woodcrete bridges from leaf to leaf (not so with Velox) are terrible at stopping conveyance of this rainwater to the interior layer. By the time it has been soaked, saturated, and has dropped down a few metres of height, the interior woodcrete starts to take on the moisture / damp / water via those bridges. That's a fact. They act like a wick. Just don't do it people, and I haven't even started on how awful they are to get airtight too. I'm simply sharing my experiences; from working directly, hands on with these products, on real live projects, and I post this information for free in my 'spare' time.