Nickfromwales

40mm is fine as 2 machines still don’t dump much water out at the same time; unless you run two identical programs on two identical machines at exactly the same time.

Get yourself to any decent paint seller and they’ll mix (colour match) some water based Matt for you. Defo same colour afaic.

The size of the droplets of water depends entirely upon whether we finished plumbing on a Friday afternoon or a Saturday morning lol.

Yup. Whenever we test a whole of house plumbing system in front of clients I shout “OK……switch on the sprinkler system” lol. Gets mixed reactions 🤣

Yup. 100% solid. Are there joints underground? Or a single pipe run? This stuff is crazy hardy, so I’d be shocked if you’ve managed to damage to pipe. Are you testing wet or dry? Best to just connect it to the mains and let the leak show itself.

Ah. Ok. Sorry, I thought it was part of your plan eg to be installed.

Needs an appliance trap / washing machine upstand for the waste outlet.

22mm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My work here is done lol 🥳

You will have an e-account at Screwfix which they will pull up with your postcode usually. They would take them back without a receipt iirc, my mates a serial ‘returner’ there……. Worst case you’ll get a credit note.

Yup. Quiet afaic, but defo need a good clean before each winter so they run as quietly and efficiently as possible.

Then the circulation pump ramps up / down, so flow through the loops follows suite? Long in-fill house with east (front) / west ends, so I wanted heat from each area (zone) to be in constant equilibrium; to steal heat from one place and distribute it to another. I remain sceptical about how well that would happen with reduced pump potential on the UFH loops at the manifold.

@marshian "Speak now, or forever hold my piece"

Easy tiger, I fitted a LLH to an ASHP (doing UFH only in a passive raft) so the manifold pump was constant flow, to promote a steady rate of circulation through the loops 24/7, which then allowed the modulating pump in the heat pump to be hydraulically separated so that could yo-yo up and down without any issues. Worked a charm. 3rd party service agent visited site last week to service it, and reported that the defrost immersion had never once come on (since commissioned in late 2022). Things can be installed with thought, vs just plonked in to tick a box

Whack away, Jim. The only thing I can fault you on is that the tops of the timbers should have been 'chopped' before installing, so the airflow could be at the top and minimal material was interfering with the membrane. Drill a few holes around 30mm down from the membrane, and 150mm or so wide, and then a couple up each side as close to the membrane (felt?) as you can get WITHOUT damaging it. Then a few careful minutes of chopping out with a nice sharp chisel. IMO it's best here to have an open top to the timbers vs holes in the midrift, so I would cut 'letterboxes' out and have as little against the membrane as is possible.

That’s one of many threads here There’s no way it’s going to be 50% cheaper to run…..

@craig?

Get rid of the electric shower, it’s a choice you’ll live to regret. UVC will have an electric immersion for fail-safe hot water. Thermoststic mixer showers will speed up or slow down, when other outlets are opened when showering, but the cartridges will balance the flow to keep the temp stable. In the same circumstances, an electric shower will just slow down, go red hot, and then abruptly shut off and deliver cold water (unless it’s a 7.5kw one which I can piss faster then).

The max you can draw is 100a, before the supply head fuse would ‘blow’ (it’ll take a lot more than 100a before it blows though). Your 100a fuse protects the meter / DNO equipment, plus also limits your max possible draw on the network (grid). Each individual switch fuse after the Henley’s de-rates the 100a that would otherwise be available to each of the 4 legs. Because you have 4 satellite fuse boards (CU) that are >3m away from the supply fuse you must limit the liability of each of the cables feeding each of the CU’s, eg in the event that a cable becomes mechanically damaged, or if any CU takes too much juice and would risk blowing the 100a fuse. You cannot have such a huge amount of power (current capacity) in a cable traversing a domestic dwelling. Just too risky. This is why the head / 100a fuse / meter are always on an outside / external wall or fed from a cable riding from the ground immediately under them. None of that has true earth protection, so can only ‘blow’ with over current or a catastrophic short circuit (mechanical damage directly linking live to neutral). Anything less than a direct short results in a spectacular and worryingly long lasting fireworks display as the fault arcs itself into infinity, literally. In that event you soon realise just how much raw power is available from that 100a fuse !! De-rating allows each of the 4 legs to all be managed in terms of the max current carrying capacity vs the distance of the cable going from each switch fuse to each CU, and caps the max amount of current each can draw in the event of a failure. If one CU was drawing 80a and the other three say 40a a piece then the main fuse would blow (rupture), and then you’d go blame the designer as it then should not have got past initial feasibility. Each leg must have its own isolation and lower rated fuse, as you are not allowed to consider the DNO fuse as your primary means of protection.

PICS PEOPLE!!!!! Let's see the goodies!!

You defo don't need a slip coupler, just a regular push fit (double socket) straight coupler. When you start gluing stuff it becomes very unforgiving, very quickly. The pipe coming up isn't perfectly plumb you say, so the double socket coupler will also give some wiggle room. Just cut that existing pipe about 50mm above FFL and chamfer the end, and then fit the coupler to it (use some lubricant, Fairy liquid is fine, (other washing up liquids are available)) and then insert the Geberit reducer. Reinstall the frame at the height you want, and then measure the amount to cut off the angled pan connector. Then remove the frame again. Chamfer the cut end and make sure to de-burr it; it's a much softer plastic so leaves a horrible burr internally from being cut. Cut about 15mm more than is needed so the pan connector can be pushed down, out of the way of the frame clip when reinstalling the frame for the final time, and then you just lift it up into the frame clip and push on the retaining clip and away to go.

May be an issue if the DHW cylinder coil cannot cope with the amount of heat / flow from the T-Rex of a heat pump that is installed here. It may need the buffer for DHW too?

with a plinth or without? With gaps at the rear or without? Most don't like to install heated floors under the plinth space where foodstuff is stored, generally frowned upon in anything other than a Passiv Haus where the slab temps are 'almost cool' anyway.

Feck. If it’s a kitchen then you’ll have far less heated floor area so far less output. Have you looked at hydronic plinth heaters? These bolster smaller radiators when you need a bit more oomph. Also, consider electric under tile heating for a bit of comfort, but NOT for use 24/7. I assume you say HUGE rads because it’s a heat pump? Is the heat pump already installed?