Nickfromwales

Hello stranger. 🙂

Not penetrating the internal leaf of the B&B structure, multiples of times, and then not having to be pre-disposed to correcting each of these penetrations, is a no brainer . Pick your battles! Life’s short.

You can get images to download from www.buffwelshplumbers.com

Surge protection would only be installed in the new CU in the house no need for a secondary one in the remote CU.

30m should be fine to export the supplied earth, and I’d defo go with the 16mm2 to stave off voltage drop and give some headroom, but you could probably get away with 10mm2. Catenary is fine, just remember to get duct grade CAT6 (I don’t use CAT5 anymore). That SWA can be protected by a 50a breaker, and should allow use of most things even when the EV charger is in use. I’d only recommend a rod and isolating the earths if this was a metal clad building.

Agreed. Thanks for the added option / clarity 😎👍

They're referred to by my good self as "useless, pretentious, undereducated, out-of-touch, overpaid, lazy, w4nkers". Good for you to have filtered out these 'shooting fish in a barrel'-style pr1cks. I have met sooo many of them that are just staggeringly bad at their job; the only thing they seem outstanding at is spending their clients money and caveating their contracts to protect you from complaining about just how shite they are, or ever getting any money back. LOL. (sorry). PM me and I'll send you a list of the ones to avoid. Also, it doesn't sound to me like you need a PH certified architect, as that isn't your issue?

Yup, just if I give it a fancy name I can get some extra beer dollars..................(only kidding). This can be a Shelly or wifi controlled doo-dah, or the 20a switch mounted in a more convenient place, basically. We aim to please, but don't always hit the target lol.

I wish to stay up and fight 🤺 lol. Same here, and seen it done badly sooooooooo many times by others that I am happy to consider myself an "expert", or at least someone who does these jobs and gets zero complaints! Yup. I just do the islands and peninsulas as I work for clients; these folks change their minds a LOT btw, so I install some insurance (aka protect them from themselves).

There's likely a mix of cold bridging through the dabs, as well as the wall being 'not dry' and the dabs are then wicking that moisture through the PB. A perfect example of where an insulated plasterboard and meticulous use of the dabs plus closed cell foam around the perimeter would have been the way forward. Defo not 'rising' damp etc. From what I can see there is plenty of room to use 25mm insulated PB on that wall.

Yup. Lots of large sections, pre-made to a bespoke design, get delivered to site and connected together to create the superstructure of your home.

That's a lot lower than I've been setting them, so good to hear that. I've not ventured below 14oC, and 16 where there's an engineered wooden floor (bonded). All pipework insulated to feck and the clips do not touch the pipe itself, EVER, instead they grab around the outside of the insulation so they can't become cold enough to cause condensation to form on them.

On sites were now supposed to use M class filtration vacuum cleaners (dust extractors) and avoid sweeping up wherever possible; with good reason tbf. If you're all alone, this rule doesn't really apply as you are not affecting others, so a good mask would suffice (not the shitty paper ones btw).

I don't think so, as the SF's were designed to not suck aerated water (very hot water plus microbubbles) into shower pumps. The dip pipe solution is kosher, as it's mains pressurised water so any air that accumulates just gets pulled through in normal use, plus modern G3 installations all avoid / prevent the extremely high water temps that cause these microbubbles.

Where I meet the run of kitchen units I stop the pipes at 450-500mm away from the walls, but where there is an island or peninsula I just always go under them. The temp is so low it really doesn't do any harm at all, and unless you plan on keeping perishables in those particular units it matters not afaic.

AFAIC as long as the pipework has a slight rise it is A1 to exit via that fitting. There is no rhyme or reason I can think of why that 100mm of pipe makes a single jot of difference tbh. Zero mention of it in the Telford MI's.... "STEP6(all cylinders) Connect hot water draw off to connection labelled “Hot Water Draw Off”. NB: If the secondary circulation system (where used) contains more than 15 litres of water a separate expansion vessel must be provided to compensate for the larger stored volume. We recommend a double check valve should be fitted to the hot water draw off to prevent any back pressure."

I doubt this is a stipulation, as you can have side exit DHW outlet with a 'dip' pipe.

Ok ok. I now wish I hadn’t said “change direction”. My proclamation goes out, throughout my land…”I meant regarding temperature” and I now renounce my throne. The king is dead, long live the king. 🙏

If you’re running a CDM site then M class extraction is requisite, vs sweeping up, to control dust etc that otherwise then becomes airborne. If you’re DIY, then keep the family out and get a decent cartridge filter mask. Do NOT expect contractors to breathe that in (plz), but I’m assuming you’re doing this whilst the site is vacant for practicality.

“The truth is out there, somewhere…”

Assuming they MCS’d it? They just look at full reheat times imo, vs looking at partial reheat for when 50-60% capacity has been used up. 250 is much better than 200/210. 😉 The one I’ve done most recently, I installed a ‘guest’ switch to bring on the immersion for times of duress, so if there was an occasion where you feared (or already knew) that the HP would struggle then the immersion could be used to temporarily bolster DHW production. Bingo.

Entire wet hydraulic arrangement; distribution pipework, manifolds, all that volume of water, buffer if there is one etc etc.

I would make every effort to go for 300L.

You can use an angled 1” x 22mm union to leave the cylinder top immediately horizontally.

Pump it out into 205L barrels and see what volume you get before it needs a breather to recover. An alarm can be generated from a pressure switch on the connection immediately off the accumulator, to give you your low pressure warning. A tank would need to be a break tank, which would then require gravity or a pump to get it to a useful pressure for the residence. More kit / complication / cost / maintenance etc.