Nickfromwales

😆 some wee just came out.

3mm is 2 credit cards. "Step away from the industrial belt sander............with both hands raised..........and walk towards my voice"

It won't need altering later, just may become an ornament that's the catch. Way too much Russian roulette here without it tbh.

Yup, defo. Use Marmox or other no-name XPS boards which will give you an excellent thermal break, and you can plaster straight onto them too. Use the ones with the gritted dark surface vs raw XPS. Same for window/door reveals 👍

If there’s a single ASHP then you can do away with it as suggested, whilst the oil remains you should have a cap on the max permitted flow temp into the UFH. That means, as of now, you should have one. (afaic).

£85, nasty shock?! Don’t have kids whatever you do, that’s a left shoe these days.

It’s what I do lol.

Just consider the number of times you’ll ACTUALLY look at it ever again, after moving in. This kind of thing is the blight of self building, too many options / choices / and over-focussing on every micro detail. It would probably take me 30 years to build my dream home how I wanted it, just in time to have my wake there. lol. Fit the Cedral, move on to the next problem, complete home, live in bliss; (apply downstream ignorance to any faux pas). 😎🫡👍

Durable and low maintenance = Cedral….. Maybe you need to try to fall in love with that, as wood(s) do not tick this box of yours squire

It’s as good as it’s going to get I’d say. Let’s see how he responds.

Yup. Leave that bit to me 👍👍👍👍

Isn't that essentially, talking to yourself? You finally lost it buddy?

Also try and keep it as full as possible, as part-filled freezers perform worst. A few bags of frozen chips as ballast etc lol.

Are there any recommendations from the manufacturer that came with the tray? If it's only 3mm you actually need, that's more like 5mm at the problem area if you allow for ~2mm of CT1 where your just bonding it down. If you use a lot of CT1 you could just use that and leave it to set, as that would be within the tolerance of what I've done previously without issue; you do have to use a LOT of it and cover every rib / point of lowest contact to pull this off successfully. As a note, CT1 is not a silicone, and I would never use silicone for this type of application. Silicone is the final cosmetic seal, only. Use CT1 along the back of the tray as well, to mechanical fix this to the adjoining walls, masking the top of the tray to leave 3-4mm of tray exposed so you can dress the CT1 in and then remove the masking. Use baby wipes, lots of them, to remove the excess sealant. I would possibly use 1mm - 2mm packers to take up the part which requires the most amount of sealant to level the tray, but you shouldn't have the tray resting on a packer and the packer being sat on the floor, as there is a possibility of the tray moving when you're in there, under your weight, and this should be all resting on the CT1 vs direct mechanical fix.

44kw...!! Yikes. Anyhoo, as you plan to reuse that elsewhere (which one will you remove btw?) pointless going over that. On the proposed I saw the 2 HP's tee'd together to do DHW, but I assume that will no longer be the case; only 1x HP can do the DHW cycle obvs.

Is it a cheap freezer? Sorry for the lack of touchy/feely, but mine is 24 years old and is steaming on like a demon still (Hotpoint frost free).

Clean the heat exchanger on the back of it with a vacuum. Any amount of dust/crud on there will make it impossible for the unit to dissipate the heat it needs to shift away to be functioning optimally.

It's a bit like leaving a fecking window open...... utter shite. All these sorts run for the hills when you ask them to turn up the dial on GAF. Shocking tbh.

1) I'm not lucky enough to be self-building yet...... 2) I often don't see the woods for the trees.....

Do you have a schematic you can share?

Lol. Not in this instance, so afaic you DEFO need a mixing valve here to cap the max flow temp into the floor.

I doubt this will move that much, so CT1 would do the job. If insects are getting in, then maybe look external as well, and see if you can get some insect mesh installed to stop the majority of the problem at source. Mask the concrete with something that won't leave a residue (frog tape etc) and apply the CT1 after that's applied properly. Then use baby wipes to remove the excess CT1 as using a finger etc is not going to work as it does with silicone. Maybe buy one of the cheap silicone application tools off amazon/other, so you can smooth/shape the CT1 before you remove the masking and leave to cure.

It looks like Edward Scissorhands did this after his Parkinsons was fully developed...... That's shocking 'carpentry' and the leadwork is 'not great'. Some more pics, but not so close up, would be good.

......😑 "oops!". Get it all masked people, it's in their remit/costs and saves a boatload of time. They (AB) ask that you complete all 1st fix work, plumbing/electrical/ventilation etc, including any penetrations you need to make in the build fabric, ahead of their arrival. Getting plasterboard on, on the inside face of the external walls, would prob be a good position to be in before getting 'sprayed' possibly with back boxes in if these are getting drilled and fixed vs fast fix boxes etc. They say that you only need to foam around doors and windows, and that you don't need to apply AT tape there, and their product will do the job of sealing up without issue. I asked about longevity there, and apparently not a problem. So, you can factor in the cost of time/tape for all doors and windows, and apply that to their price tag, making it cheaper again. They are in and out in a day too, which is pretty damn good.

I would try water and a dish scrubby pad doodah first, as it is a water-based product iirc?