Nickfromwales

I had a run of bathrooms to fit from a major showroom down here, with an open riven face to the tile. Had to start adding hundreds of £’s to my quotes as to get the grout managed we had to grout each m2 at a time. Still have nightmares over it, and it NEVER all came off.

Lose the external blocks that run under the threshold and replace with Marmox blocks, if worried. You can do this in a day with the bifolds fully retracted as there will be no weight on the threshold then. Adding the XPS to the outside of an already cold block is just some nonsense solution to get you signed off and out of their hair imho.

You’re outnumbered mate. 💪 Now, back to business! 😘

What of this have they immortalised?

Have you not taken your meds yet? Chill Winston or I’ll open a can of Welsh ninja kick-ass, 🥷and whoop you good, boy. If your tiling was bad, I’m sure I’d have already commented historically……but tbf the only thing I could find was us ripping into your piss coloured grout 😂😂. “We good”, lol 😊.

Mediation via other not via CC claim. Sorry. Did you / they immortalise this discussion?

Maybe better if you check out ‘the paving expert’ forum too? If you go cheap and mortar these joints, expect them to fail with repeat wet / dry / sun / freeze. The reason it’s expensive is because it’s very good and extremely hardy and durable. Work out costs of the lifetime of ownership, not the cost of the stuff in the tub, as grouting / pointing these every time they become shabby would be a royal PITA.

Offer to split the scaff costs to break bread? Tbh you should have said it needs to go and asked if it was going ‘on the bill’, because if the contract says you’re responsible for the hire for the duration then you’re fecked.

Maybe ask for mediation first, so you can clear the air via an impartial 3rd party(s)? Arguing takes a lot of effort, talking can smooth this both ways, but they’re on thin ice and would be stuffed if this got in front of a judge. If they did make a claim, you’d just respond via a counter-claim and get it set aside, but tbh you really want to avoid court action either way wherever possible. Can go either way, it’s not a given. Whoever damaged the tiles, how can you evidence that you or a family member / visitor did not do this? For eg. Have they admitted damaging them? CCTV footage?

That’s BIPV, so please, if you get a quote, can you upload here so we can compare? Doesn’t look at all bad tbh, better than the half length panels for sure.

People buy with the eye, lol.

Maybe start a new thread in the doors and windows forum to wake the gods, vs hoping someone finds this in the foundations thread 👌. Prob get more responses that way, specific to the windows 👍👍

I think for Georgian style the glazed units just come pre fitted with the bars?

That’s going to be for you to find out tbh. That’s one for lots of googling and ringing and emailing of specs. Maybe someone on here has bought some like this and can provide a link to the supplier?

Kind of what is was building up to, just I was going to break it to them gently 🤣🤣🤣. Yea……..sliding sash are horrible. @lizzieuk1, you can get regular openers that look like sash from outside. These just have the horns added to the opening upper 50% of the window.

Lol. I’d often lose a full day drawing the grout lines out in pencil, over and over again, until I liked the layout. And that was on clients jobs not my own house! Time well spent imo, when I saw just how poorly other local tilers workmanship was, as only a few have OCD. But more surprising is the lack of eye for quality that a lot of clients have, and they only really notice these things when someone points it out lol.

These are all in one hi-limit plus regular stats combined. You just slide the whole thing out with some types, and leave the chassis in situ (dry replacement) or the lots got to be changed with cheaper units (wet replacement). It’s just a duff unit most likely, but direct cylinders do have a tendency to go through lower immersions sooner as that’s the one doing the heavy lifting. Just not this much sooner

Pointless going with a great fabric AT test and then filling the house with poorly sealed, leaky doors and windows..... Cold air infiltration trumps U values all day, every day. "Far better" will still be "poor" vs a proper AT rated unit, unfortunately. Ask the manufacturers for the statistics of the units you are considering, and compare those to say a Rational entry level AT unit to see how much difference there is.

There are few people out there who would integrate an in-roof PV array with a standing seam roof covering. Only true solution is BIPV, which is OK to look at and I guess a reasonable solution. No idea how long these things last though, but I imagine if one snuffs it you'd just stick the replacement one on top of the dead one, if you couldn't get the thing to come off without causing damage / voiding roof warranty. Ground mount is a good option IMHO, but you do need a fairly open plot and a lot of clear landscape around you to make that work. Also, regarding PP, there is a BIG difference between ground mount (the panels laying on the ground) vs putting these on the roof of an outbuilding, so each is a different subject for a different scenario. Outbuildings could be 1.5 storeys and have in/on roof solar on them, without much annoyance to the PP dept for eg, but they may poop the bed over a ground mount?!?

Could just be a “Friday unit”. That simple. Why lose any sleep? Just ask for a free replacement, fit, forget, go to pub. 👌.

This kind of thing, random internet grab, no affiliation / recommendation. https://www.heatflowinstallations.co.uk/floor-milling.html

Running your particular floor / slab ‘ling & low’ means you’ll be fine at prob 25°C max UFH flow temp. These types of homes don’t really know if it’s winter outside, with the only real negative impact being from the MVHR sucking in ice cold air. You’ll be fine, chalk n cheese to what’s being discussed here. @Barry1965 have you tried lifting 1m2 of floor area in the corner of a random room, to see if this is a 50mm topping layer over a rough cast sub slab? That’s what I found in a 60’/70’s bungalow, giving opportunity to put 40mm XPS boards down in tile adhesive and then the overlay could go onto those. If not then I’m with @JohnMo in that you should just nail clip it to the slab and run 24/7 with a much lower flow temp. This is one where there was 180mm or 200mm hollow core concrete deck, then I installed the UFH, and the around 65mm of screed went over the entire area. Then engineered wooden flooring over that (bonded down NOT floating!). You’d have to accept that if you REALLY want UFH then you’ll just have to live with around 25p in the £1 going to Mother Earth. Theres a company who can router out the existing slab and lay the pipe straight into that, which is what I’d do to offset a lot of expensive carpentry and fixtures alterations, perhaps, but you 1000% want to go for tiles not wood or carpet, and have one floor type for the entire area so you get same results per m2 which will make controlling it a bucketload easier. I’d have the UDH tbh, as the heating system is prob high temp rads and costing a fair bit to run anyways, so switching to a good quality heat pump will help (but I’d prob advise you stayed on gas unless you have polar PV and a big battery (to chip in to the overall annual electrical running costs). The heart wants what the heart wants, and sometimes the head will come second place.

Hi. They will be under the 1st year manufacturer warranty, so contact the cylinder supplier and ask for a free replacement. When it arrives, swap them over and job done. Monitor the performance of the replacement, and hopefully there will be no issues moving forward. 👍

I think it will become an ornamental item. lol.

750mm usually, but 900mm is the deepest i have seen requested. Your electrician should be stipulating this......