Nickfromwales

Let’s go knock at the door of No.10 and straighten this mess out for them? Just needs a couple of months with self-preservation, corruption, greed, elitism, foul imbalance of wealth…….and a few other things set aside…… Oh, wait. That’ll upset too many fukctards who have their fingers (more like both hands) in our till.

Nothing whatsoever. I am only considering an option for not mechanically, purposefully pumping fresh air into a room (ablaze) to promote combustion. In a room / compartment that has the doors and windows shut, a fire becomes involved far less quickly; the MVHR would compromise this delay by ‘fanning the flames’. PS, there are zero fire extinguishing or retarding gasses that wouldn’t kill a person in minutes, or less.

In a world steaming towards an ‘all electric’ future, this is inevitable. I do, however, believe strongly that the grid / government should be subsidising attaching 2-3 panels to the roof of every home in the UK, feeding into the grid, to bolster micro-generation and reverse feed a struggling grid. Look at the volume of area of commercial buildings that are just bare paint?!? No need to attack the greenbelt tbh, other than cost-convenience. People who cry about mandatory PV panels going on to their roofs should talk to their future grand / great grandchildren, who will call them idiots for not doing this sooner. If the entirety of the UK are generating throughout the day, this would make a huge impact; subsidy could be then offset by not needing new substations / such aggressive or major nationwide reinforcement of the grid etc, and it’s blisteringly high cost to implement (which will always come out of the public purse, howsoever). But, what do I know….. 🤷‍♂️

Yup. Lots of clients ask if they need to turn it off for x/y/z reasons, including having doors / windows / sliders all flung wide open all afternoon etc, and the answer is “no”. Turn it on, walk away, adhere STRICTLY to the maintenance schedule; for a new build I say ditch the filters at 90 days in, clean again 90 days on, then clean at 6 month anniversary, then biannually for life. Just a quick flick over with a hoover is all that’s needed, after the building phase crap is gone via ditching of the first set of filters as aforementioned.

Do you plan on 2 EV’s? Both charging simultaneously? I thought the whole point of the CT clamps was that these give the house loads mains priority and the EV charger is told to use the remaining capacity, only until the house has its fill, and thus modulates fully? If they both have such functionality then the mains should be split 3 ways, and the max never exceeded. I can only assume that you would tell the EV charger what the incoming supply fuse is rated at so it can ‘do the maths’?

@Bluebaron, accept this kind offer perhaps, from someone experienced and very knowledgable. There are professionals on here who support other members ‘behind the scenes’, a trusted few that put others before themselves (probably too often ). Reach out!

We digress…..again….. 🙃

Winter solar will give you sub 15% of the installed capacity, if you’re lucky enough to be power-down during a rare sunny spell… Cheap, sizeable battery / hybrid inverter option with a connection point for a generator will work splendidly. Influx of solar energy will add itself in parallel, and the genny (2-3kw) only needs to fire up to charge the batteries for the night, or top up during dark days. If outages are very frequent and problematic then just get an LPG genny set up permanently in an out building or genny shed, so you don’t have to feck about each time, setting up to restore or maintain power.

Ouch. Agreed. People, let’s play the ball and perhaps avoid direct insults, please. If the subject matter induces emotion / provokes / annoys, it’s best to ignore or not comment at all, as per the T&C’s of Buildhub membership. “As you were folks!”

Because you value your testicles.

Yup.

Turning off a mechanical fan that is forcing air into rooms, for the sake of £100, is worth the extra effort imo. All ground floor plaster-in vents have intumescent fire collars on them.

Nope!! B Regs have an aversion to death inducing systems being installed in residential dwellings lol. Waking up to a home being fully filled with Halon would not go well……

The benefit outweighs these ‘odds’, as the MVHR not supplying a fire with a plentiful feed of fresh air (to aid combustion) would be my preference; the significance of this was enough for me to consider it robustly, pros and cons, before suggesting it to my client. Any future electrician would be informed by the owner, before they took any tools out, and would also encounter printed labels on the CU stating the additional measures required. However, if that all failed, the absolute worst case scenario THEN, would be the owner eventually realising that the lMVHR wasn’t on then they’d simply go and reset it. Number of people who test their smoke detectors monthly? . Not so sure but I’d bet that It’s a VERY low percentile….. …..like single digits. Only the relay would wear, not the RCBO🙂, and this will likely be tested and approved for 1000’s of operations. In actuality, it’ll fire maybe 2-5 times per decade.

Not exceptionally high, just 225 vs 178, so 47mm higher. Wall hung WC’s on frames tend to have this a lot higher up.

Any loose material alongside / under the pipes needs removing. Attempting to compact anything in this small void is completely OTT and (IMHO) a waste of time and effort. You’re far better off with the whole void fully filled in one sitting, as a single solid mass. Foot traffic is considered ‘light’, so fully encapsulating the wrapped pipes with 20mm over them will be fine. That compound I linked to is particularly well suited to this exact application because it has fibres in it, so it’s very tolerant of the tiny amount of movement you’ll get here. A wrap with duct tape will offer some more protection and ‘decoupling’, which os best practice vs just pouring onto bare pipes. You can do this in lots of little bits of tape and it doesn’t need to be perfect as every little helps.

Are we agreed thos could only ever be used in deep winter time, in a “passiv-esque” dwelling?

A lot of members here have been looked after by Trevor from Cylinders2go, and he’s also my go-to for cylinders and has been for a long time. Mention my username and the forum and he will ‘quote you happy’, minus the HG tax

Madness I know (IRL) and that was my exact concern. If I can buy one thing to be a maybe, or another that’s a definite, and the price isn’t hundreds apart, then I’ll go definite each and every time.

You just fit a room sealed WBS that sucks air in from outdoors. 👍. Sad fact is, folk spend thousands fitting one, suffer silently in protest whilst roasting to death, and then it’ll eventually become an ornament. The further irony is the several hundreds of thousands spent making an airtight, well insulated home, that requires next to no heat at 0° OAT, and then fitting the most fierce heat source that you can lay your hands on….. The heart and the head are two very different things

Depends on how much time you spend in there? The kitchen / dining / living, open space lifestyle puts folk in that area for socialising quite a lot, whereas at mine I’m either behind my desk or I’m perfecting my ass-imprint on the settee. I have USB’s everywhere, house with 6,7, or 8 occupants at a time, so just leaving wires everywhere (lightning and USB C) seems to be useful here.

No probs https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-d2-pva-adhesive-5ltr/474ek?ref=SFAppShare 👍👍

For a box section of equal dimension, this I assume would be difficult for heat to affect easily, but I beams (UB & UC) with different thickness materials making the one profile, thus reacting differently over time / temp, the focus would be more on those? However, the ‘system’ would just blanket the solution for worst case, methinks, vs giving chapter and verse for each different scenario. Just my uneducated guess…..

Are they heating pipes, or a hot & cold? 20mm doesn’t leave much (any) room to insulate effectively. 15mm pipe with 9mm wall insulation = 33mm diameter, x2. You can buy a thin (3mm) neoprene tape LINK which may suit and give you that little bit of wiggle room.

I have some odd, inbuilt aversion to this needing any kind of constant (continuous / maintained) signal or feed to function, and am favouring something that flip / flops with a single ‘hit’. I may need therapy……but I do also like belts, braces, and for my phone to continue to remain silent each and every night.