Nickfromwales

I saw one of these being fitted in one previous clients projects, but feck knows if the price makes it good............. They have a few offerings here, https://eastcoastkitchens.co.uk/appliances/4020-evoline-backflip-worktop-sockets-uk-c-usb-charger-stainless-steel-4044657042705.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23336478432&gbraid=0AAAAADqGETsxA3zX54fcbWAVZnry0IAGJ&gclid=CjwKCAjwnN3OBhA8EiwAfpTYesH79eF82j1MRNZaKTzFIs7AoOEN777WjgnIFwEDjIRuWAUlGNvQuhoC12QQAvD_BwE

Don't plug anything 'chunky' into this or it'll melt. No toaster / kettles etc, defo not a microwave. Cheap crap, sorry!

MBC have done loads with split-level insulated passive rafts. I'd avoid a cold-ventilated sub floor like the plague, but if cost is the driver then B&B floor will likely be the most affordable / simpler to do. Just be sure to allow for 200mm of PIR insulation over the B&B to get back the loss of the cold underbelly.

Blowing a fuse will have the opposite effect to the one you seek, albeit temporarily satisfying to do. Good luck, and chin up.

There are some half decent ones out there, but most have to be fed from a plug top or from a 13a fused spur, and cannot be connected directly to the ring main. That restricts how much current you can draw through them, with some saying they have to be off a 10a fuse in the spur.

Eh? If that's a radial it will be on a 4.0mm cable. I think you're mixed up and the kitchen is on a ring; they could have spurred off that with a fused spur for the extractor as it's using near zero juice. Are you asking the electrician, or just making assumptions? The Quooker tap could (should) also be off the kitchen ring, via a single 13a socket. 4mm to that is way OTT. Not much of this is making sense tbh.

Up to the point you open it to admire the view, yes. 😆

It’s always down to the cost impact of convenience shopping. I’d be interested to see what the £premium was for all that design and coordination.

On most of my M&E projects we have posi joists, and a huge amount of stuff can be hidden away in the build fabric if you pre-plan (earlier the better obvs). On (another) one, where the architect was as much use as a porthole on a submarine, I was left to retrospectively solve the issue of getting all the MVHR and plant kit etc installed, after the frame had gone into production. We squeezed the manifolds (bespoke) into the posi voids and got a lot of that up and out of the (tiny) plant room. Good outcome, just needed someone with a problem-solving background and attitude, and we got it done. Was bloody tight, see pic of the utility ceiling void:

After 10kL it's got some legs. You need to dial in the sales crap and procure pumps etc yourself.

All I need is a recent photo of them and their last known location.................

The wood of the flooring is actually an insulator, just not a great one. I'd look at laying XPS boards under a glue jointed (but floating) floor. Typically you'd see a batten screwed down the the concrete, laid over a DPC strip, and then the oak flooring would be nailed down to the battens. You could add more insulation in between the battens, subject to you having that 25mm or so of head height to be able to sacrifice.

Plus these individual hobs will modulate with thermostatic control, so will be all switching on / off sporadically and independently. 32a is a boatload of juice to use up in fairness; I say this whilst considering the amount of homes I've serviced over the last 30+ years that have only had a 60a fuse in the supply head, feeding the entire (sometimes sizeable) residence.

Was he not retired? I guess if you're time rich then things run much smoother vs anyone where one or both halves are still in employment.

You need to get materials for the roof and fenestration sequenced, or you'll have the scaffolding up for a heck of a lot longer than you'd want. I'm doing all this on another members MBC build atm, and it's keeping me and the client V busy; largely making sure we've not missed anything and trying to value-engineer / bulk pre-purchasing etc. MBC have torn through the foundation and frame erection like super-hero's, they are just next level in what they do; the caveat is, that you cannot stand in their way / slow them down.

That's why you've got webbed feet mate!

As above, oversized provisional concrete pads up to 95% of the height is a good idea, then just use plates and threaded bar to connect to floating plates. Adjust the bars for height, and when on point drill and fix the plates.

It's usually just a standard hex nut held captive in the nylon / plastic receiver.

Some are factory / moulded fixtures, so check before purchasing

A laser with 2 beams will give you a perfect x & y, so you’ll need to set out from one straight line (with that as your x) and then you can reliably cast the 90° perps (y) off that. Then it’s just down to measuring everything twice. Do you have a grid plan you can post up?

Most of these are quick release as above. If you can identify the size of nut / thread then usually these are stainless steel (so a magnet won’t work) so don’t replace with mild steel.

Maybe they thought the same as I would, like “maybe I’ll say feck all and hide in there out of sight / mind”…. 🤐

A back-elbow sent my £400 Bosch down a flight of metal stairs. That provoked the purchase of my Milwaukee unit. Went from red to green line, green being MUCH better imho. I said the word (expletive deleted) a few times as I watched the Bosch going down the stairs and bouncing off a concrete floor like someone playing pinball….

I’d use something 2-part, but in honesty I’ve not done much exterior filling. Scarfing new wood in is the no.1 best way to do wood repairs though.

Ah, sorry, read it as if the riser was outside. A is fine, and if you run the bath waste in 50mm and branch off in 40mm for the basin (reducing to 32mm at the trap) then you want even need an AAV at the bath; as per @Russell griffiths comment, if there’s room to fit an upstand and regular AAV behind the bath panel then it’s cheap insurance.