Nickfromwales

Post the manufacturers sectional detail, please, before we comment further. I fix into cylinders like this routinely.

Zero chance.

You'd need a better plumber to make this a reality!

I believe the saying is "as bent as a £9 note".

You are instructing trades to do the opposite of what most do, ergo shit is hitting fans at a rate of knots here. I haven't put a washing machine tap or mains plug behind one for over 20 years. Ditto fridge, ditto freezer, ditto oven, ditto list goes on. You just ask them to migrate these supply's to the nearest adjacent cabinet and then put the hoses / cables to that location....... Why do you think it's so fecking long?!?

@Roger440 may already be suffering from this type of expansion, as he moved to deepest, darkest, but still picturesque Wales, and then the pylons started dropping.......

I'm just about to start a new build for a new client and the site was a bit of an odd-ball, with the rear left quarter needing 'attention' according to the geotechnical report, before we could build a raft and a new ICF structure atop. I made the call to drop grade by 500mm, with the added benefit of slightly higher internal ceiling heights but no affect on ridge height, which cured a problem with some beneficial side effects. Sometimes you can turn issues into advantages, so a sloping site doesn't always mean a headache!

Lol. On site is the only place I command . Has a certain ring to it though There are a significant few who are too dense or preoccupied to GAF here, surviving day to day on a diet of short-sightedness, ignorance, and selfishness. If the nations children were given a choice on a Monday, go to school to get an education to bolster the next 50-60 years of your working life, or stay home an stare at fecking TicTok all day.............we'd be fecked, and schools would be 20% full at best. Dehydrated horses clinging to life sometimes need to be carried to water, and even if they can't swim, need be be tossed in the deep end and given no choice. You can't educate pork.

If you go for a block and beam foundation then you'll need a clear perimeter all around the slab, to get the required cross ventilation. This may then provoke a retaining wall £££.

I'm a big fan of extracting or supplying as far diagonally opposite the door as is practicable. Airflow across the whole room will (should always) steer my design / execution; not lost a patient yet.

Apparently not, but I am as bemused as you are. Men in white coats holding clipboards say differently, so who am I to contest...... Disclaimer: I contest EVERYTHING!

Better late than never lol! 1. Either is fine, but typically a 92.5 is obtuse so the better choice for a smooth fall; the socket gives the extra bit of wiggle room if you need to increase the fall slightly. 2. The socket has to go into the wall, or the stack is way too far off the wall. I core out at 117, and then just chip away gingerly until the knuckle of the fitting will find its forever home. Sand and cement mix to patch back in, foam for the internal gap. 3. OCD is the killer here, and I'll always try and have flow going into a socket, from a spigot, but in actuality it doesn't matter a single jot, so just do whatever is easiest or what is convenient on materials on site. The golden rule is to cut the pipe square, and chamfer properly, silicone lube both before mating, and life will be wonderful for a very long time.

All good, afaic, but most designers will favour it (having the extract location) being placed outside the shower area. No idea why, but in small rooms I guess it’s completely moot.

Oh lordy……

“Clean your panels in spring, folks!!!”

110w improvement after cleaning?

If it’s already installed, not a great deal you can do now, other than drop the cavity insulation down into it. The biggest issue here will be where the internal tongue of steel protrudes into the internal block leaf, so best practice here would be to use an insulated plasterboard to finish the block wall, making 1000% sure that nothing like dot & dab (board adhesive) etc is in contact with the steel. Covering it externally will be of benefit, with perhaps Compacfoam or PIR, but without seeing a section drawing of where the head of the window ends up it’s a bit difficult to say much more. Can you pencil up a sketch? Architect drawing for this detail? PS, I have hidden your duplicate thread to keep the replies in one place

You think manufacturers would simply omit 20-30mm sections of frame in all 4 corners, leaving the metal sides flush with the top of the glass to allow this runoff, but I suppose the glass edge is then too vulnerable.

PV panels laid flat (sub 12°) won’t ‘self-clean’.

Beautiful words, softly spoken.

I thought you'd never ask...............

I very much doubt that will be an issue here at all, and I'd say go with the green option and stay off your neighbours property / asset. Perfectly simple and a 'good' solution, so KISS.

Does the manufacturer say these can talk to each other, and go 'master' and 'slave'? Eg your car for work at 06:30 MUST be charged, but SWMBO's can be at 50% and that'll do for 08:00 for any run to the shop (kinda thing).

What have they done here, and can you follow as original?

Quite a few on here have done basements by a 3rd party, and then plonked a TF atop, as most TF companies won't touch a basement (or anything sub / semi-subterranean) with a shitty stick. May be a lot simpler for you to go with ICF all the way, but with timber for posi joists / internal walls etc. One point of contact for responsibility / coordination / liability, reducing risk massively (and avoiding errors and the blame game).