Nickfromwales

Ah, sorry, I thought they were walk in wardrobes I can see the grey lines denote the walls now, “D’oh!” Good to hear attic is ‘within’ which saves a lot of insulating/faffing about. It’s not a huge property so the unit being central isn’t really necessary, just ‘nice’. Make sure you’ve allowed for box attenuators (silencers) on the supply and extract to manage audibility; these make a good job great. Assuming you’re going out the roof for fresh and exhaust, so just make sure both roof terminals are on the same elevation. If you go for the WiFi connectivity option(s), (done this previously with Brink), then you can boost from home assistant, eg just as you start cooking you can tell Alexa to boost to manage cooking smells etc.

Prob best to add, that if you’re relying on the studs to hang this item off, then also make sure to add a few more screws (construction type) to make sure the bit of stud you attach to is going nowhere too

That’s odd, as I’d defo say the dining area was a living space so would need fresh. Would be put in a design to pass b-regs afaic.

Extracts in the wardrobes would prob need dialling down, to stop the air in the room just going a-b and missing the area at the door, and the fresh in the pantry may push the smells from stored food items into the open living area. Consider a transfer grille in the wall between the plant/utility and pantry, possibly, with the support and extract valves fitted as far apart as possible vs back to back as shown (if you go for the transfer grille). Is that attic space outside the heated and airtight envelope, or do you have a full warm roof?

Should be fine tbh..........they've retained a full 20mm of the joist for structural integrity

CVC (Oxford) sell 180mm EPS insulated duct and fittings, and that's what I would use to go through the cold aspect of the wall. Single wall PVC is not great for this tbh, and I would avoid having anything other than the insulated (insulation) type duct from atmosphere all the way to the MVHR unit. The only use of steel here was to connect/adapt for the metal box attenuators (silencers), the rest was "foam" insulation ductwork. Is your unit in the heated / airtight envelope, or in a cold space?

#captainabruptinthehouse Relax, time for a spa day?

Assuming that’s a corridor that comes past the room next door, not so easy to do? Just depends on how much of the adjoining room you have to give up to allow the dog-leg required at the end of the corridor. Would require an L shaped corridor to get a full door.

…… but technically not actually UG then and should revert back to domestic / above ground. Bottom line is, it should be buried, or boxed in, and out of sight / UV, which is why you typically revert back to standard pipe as soon as you are out of the ground. Stuff is still bombproof afaic, if fitted by someone who is competent / conscientious in their work. I’ve installed miles of this stuff in domestic and commercial settings, just trying to think of a time where we had an issue with a seal, and tbh I can only recollect the seal ever pushing out completely because it was a Friday fitting; 2 mins to lube and push back in, and on to the next. Silicone gel / spray lube is a must, plus chamfering the ends of cut pipe, then make sure the pipe runs are clipped properly, with particular attention paid where there are changes in direction (where the flush water etc drops one or two storeys and then turns horizontal, you need to control that ‘thump’), so observe that and you really will struggle to fail here. Loads on here have DIY’d their foul and waste who have never done it before, just relying on lots of advice taken from here / other resources, and away to go.

I mean, if someone pays my company to do a job, and I take a profit and hand the change to a 3rd party contractor, I am still 100% responsible for that job being kosher. OSO is the company that is responsible here, as they took the clients money. What they did with that money afterwards is neither here nor there as far as a warranty claim is concerned.

Yup. Defo do not push your luck here, as the anode stops the cylinder corroding at the unions. Ariston used to sell a lot of glass lined UVC’s back in the day, and I went to a lot which looked A1 but we’re leaking into the insulation jacket via what you couldn’t see. They rot from the inside out btw.

Do you have an MVHR extract in the plant room? I always fit one for customers where there’s a lot of kit in the same space, and that goes towards efficiency during the winter. Not so sure I’d be punching holes in an airtight PH spec build as that will be pulling a lot of air from the room and dumping it to atmosphere, which needs to get back into the building by knocking your MVHR airflow / balance way off. You’d need a small “split” AC system, which seems massively overkill here.

That’s quite shit. Didn’t spot this reply, so ignore my last. The bottom line is, you paid OSO so your contract/agreement is with them. They decided to feck you over by giving the job to a 3rd party contractor so they need to fix this. Reply to apologise regarding the timeframe, and say “you’ve got 7 days to respond with a plan to rectify before I look to seek losses via the courts. There’s your timeframe, you bellends”. Shocking way to treat you to be honest, and you’d probably have been better off using a good local plumber and probably would have been cheaper and better. Ffs.

lol. Yea, done projects near Melton Mobrey and Lutterworth, one coming up possibly in Northants, so I do get around 🙃. See if OSO offer to put it all right, and explore options to make the plinth big/strong enough to take that plus an acc’r . If you get proper stuck let me know.

@Nickfromwales may be able to help. He fits Telford cylinders. AAV on the flow and another on the return, no issues from any I’ve fitted.

Wrong thread?

Not ideal but entirely doable. Just needs the chase to be deep / wide enough for it to be taped with pvc electrical tape and then the whole thing mummified in expanding foam to insulate it. Soak the chase with water and allow to partially dry before applying the foam, as the moisture will help it cure a lot better with less honeycomb / voids.

Bronze too by the look of it.

"Tot ziens" Ventilation Land lol. God bless Google . I think it would be fair to show your appreciation by getting the next round in......only 21k+ members; probably arranging this to happen in a Weatherspoon's would be best for you

I always suggest to (tell) my customers to sit down with the builder, before they do anything, and set out your station. The builder will otherwise decide, if you appear to be a walk-over on day 1. They will assume fast=good; you can say "reasonable pace with a better eye of the quality and finish may cost another 5-10%, but I ACCEPT". Tell them that you're going to ask to have a framing level placed on the walls after they've been laid on, so they know that shite won't fly. Assume they'll do a good job, and you'll quickly find why folk say "assumption is the mother of all feck ups". Speak to the builders, they're human at the end of the day . Let the builder know that you're approachable, eg if more work needs doing to deliver a better end result. Employing a general builder, because their quote was the favoured one, isn't any means of a measure or guarantee as to what will be delivered, this needs to be managed (expectations from both sides) by you; if you wish to stand any chance of getting what you expect (want), then say this at the outset, not complain afterwards if you didn't ask what the quality / workmanship would be like. FYI, cement and skim are finishers not fillers, so a wall that's seriously out of plumb should probably have been dot & dabbed vs scratched and skimmed.

Use it well, for we are the chosen messengers.

@GNB88, We could be neighbours, if England wasn't in the bloody way...... Welcome aboard.

Most modern UVC's have very low standing losses, and we are advocates here of a bit of oversizing so the stored temp can be around 50-550C, further reducing losses. Good advice if it's a thermal store for DHW though.

One that has a whacking great duct that has to go to atmosphere? 180mm on the one in my sons attic room, but it's so cold up there atm that you could keep meat; whilst the rest of us squelch about in the ridiculous heatwave..... No wonder my other kids go and kip up there when the sun finally shows its face.

If the house is open plan and 400m2 or above, I will retract 50% of that