Nickfromwales

You block and fill, and then time it for an hour to prove there’s no leaks. You’ll need BCO and warranty inspector out at the same time. You don’t usually have to fill higher than the top of the lowest chamber, as long as water is visible in the highest.

👍

Link? (Please).

It’s a different issue to the rest of the house, as your internal leaf is outside the garage door, ergo it’s permanently cold. As the ambient in the garage isn’t the heated ambient of the house, the delta T between the two will be near inconsequential, plus the windows and doors will bridge their respective cavities, so this is apples/oranges. K rend will have the mesh to sit across the vertical dpc, so that would have the least risk of cracking, whereas s&c render will defo hairline crack there. You can manage that with expanded metal, to bridge the gap.

Indeed. But you’ve got to move the air out of the house, not just the room.

Link That kind of thing, and you get a receiver to give you the feed to a relay to trigger the lights. Good quality PIR’s can be made ‘directional’ by shuttering off sections of the viewing window. Trial and error there so some time needed to set that up.

At least you waited until after lunch….

Quinetic have a key fob, that’ll work. TLC do a decent break beam unit, iirc these can have a hard wired unit at the house and a battery unit diagonally opposite, to save cable runs. You set that higher than foxes / dogs etc and low enough to catch heads and shoulders and the roof of the car.

If the fans move moist air away from an area, they will be of huge benefit for the relative humidity, but would only ‘dry’ the screed if it was pointed at the floor. Then it would dry that one spot. Then you’d move the fan to another spot, and see the previous one become ‘wet’ again. The only way to dry a screed quickly is to have used a fast drying product (like Ardex A35 etc) in the mix. That can have ceramic tiles laid 45 mins after it being laid! Used it on one job where we had a 7 day window to complete a summer room floor, and I was seriously impressed. If you can have windows / doors open to cross ventilate, and fans on in the room, providing the outside relative humidity doesn’t then exceed that of the room, then you’ll aid drying / curing ‘a bit’. Move the box, re-test, be patient

I suggest moving the box to sample a different area each day vs one spot which will ‘stagnate’ the reading…..if that’s the correct word.

All I can add is, that wallpaper can have a clear glaze (a-la a varnish) which is supposed to seal it and make it robust enough to have in a bathroom…….no peely edges. Takes a bit of scrubbing etc, apparently, but 🤷‍♂️. Put the 2 bits of wallpaper where your wife says to put them, and then admit to yourself in secret that it actually looks good just your knee jerk was against it. Such a small issue, imho, but I guess I’d pull the plug on the marriage if the wallpaper is of Ken Dodd in various poses.

By choosing well The correct methodology should be a mist coat (preferably sprayed) on to new plaster which is left to dry completely. Then your chap pole sands where the joints are, plus the general wall area to highlight high spots / dings. The idea being that the paint is removed almost instantly on high points, and gets left in any dings, making spot filling a doddle. The painter I saw on our previous project was doing this very diligently, and I kept watching him. He asked why and I told him there’s only a few good ones out there that won’t just turn up to a private job (therefore nobody looking/watching/checking) and blast the paint on and leave. On a job in Oxford the painter was just horrific. I told him, in these exact words, that a drunk could paint straighter lines than you. He then used a loose WC pan as a hop up, fell off it and smashed it to pieces, then screamed at everyone because that was ‘all their faults’ and stormed off the job. ”Bye”. 👋. If you get a decent painter (decorator) then all the hard work getting to the point of painting will be worth it, because if you put a cheap suit on it doesn’t matter how many days you spent in the gym

Nah. Done too many, and the pipe flow rates can be much higher through a pipe which is not compromised, so when sending water at ~2 lpm in the same size pipe that could deliver 20 lpm, you have headroom. Any pipes ‘seriously’ damaged had a section cut out or were lifted, binned, and replaced. I had a practice of always making sure there was at least 1x 100m coil excess on each install for such an eventuality. Not so much of a problem these days as a lot of places now carry UFH pipe in stock.

I stayed a good few times in the Chapter House in Salisbury, a proper steak house to say the very least. ~13th century building, and the staircase going up to the rooms was like that perpetual staircase where you seem to go down or sideways and not up! Great if you don't want a drink as just walking up the staircase to the room makes you feel like you've had 9 pints If anyone likes steak, and you're passing by there, go get some of the best beef you'll ever eat

Radii.....

I have had 'orangutans' up-end a full wheelbarrow load of screed on a single pipe, and still just a bit of a dent but nothing more. With Pert-al you have to have a vendetta against the pipe to damage it tbh. Unless they're all concrete laying trannies who have turned up in stilettoes you're pretty safe, as most site boots are flat bottomed and the 100+kg is not delivered in a point load. QQ: are we still allowed to say trannies, or is there a new standard? I'm really struggling to keep up with it all tbh. Bending raduis's (just googled it, hold on.....................) radii, are managed by not reversing by 180 degrees, but instead laying serpentine and only turning 90 degrees until two looser radii bends are required in the middle, to turn at 180's. I've been sinking pipes into screeds etc for north of 25 years, and not ONCE has a pert-al pipe let me down, EVER. I imagine the flexible non al stuff may be more forgiving, but prob easier to strong-arm past it's 'point of no return', so that would then be a possible ticking time bomb that the bendee would be blissfully unaware of.

Thanks for the feedback, good to know. So you just fettled with the flow rates and that was suffice? One stat?

https://www.ukdrills.com/tct-core-drills-drill-bit?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=981782100&gbraid=0AAAAAD8ijkek1n6oBt64G-lPT48MKUvMo&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgvnCBhCqARIsADBLZoI0K4MCYSL3UcSclQG1Z-G1Cp8HkHchhEbsZwJ3O_fkmR3HJ0bUwBUaAsOTEALw_wcB One of those Then a 22mm diamond drill arbour to a six-sided chuck adaptor SDS or 'plain' in these kits, but ebay/amazon will sell individual bits I'm sure. https://www.ukdrills.com/diamond-accessory-bits

SSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH...................... He'll ask us to crowd-fund it ffs.

Do you have the same flooring over the same zones of UFH?

How many units/flats are you building? ……..

It'll be quicker and far less painful to just buy a replacement unit and accept defeat. They're not more than a couple of £10's and they can guilt trip you into fitting it for free.

They've simply sent you the wrong document. Ask for the correct one

That's exactly what I just wrote?

@all If the Super wall 32 gets immersed, will it dry back out again quickly, and without degradation? There are other threads on here stating folk tested this in buckets of water/other and the product seemed to just shake it off. If the op has this in the walls already, then getting this swapped out may be a complete nightmare.