Nickfromwales

Yup. Leave that bit to me 👍👍👍👍

Isn't that essentially, talking to yourself? You finally lost it buddy?

Also try and keep it as full as possible, as part-filled freezers perform worst. A few bags of frozen chips as ballast etc lol.

Are there any recommendations from the manufacturer that came with the tray? If it's only 3mm you actually need, that's more like 5mm at the problem area if you allow for ~2mm of CT1 where your just bonding it down. If you use a lot of CT1 you could just use that and leave it to set, as that would be within the tolerance of what I've done previously without issue; you do have to use a LOT of it and cover every rib / point of lowest contact to pull this off successfully. As a note, CT1 is not a silicone, and I would never use silicone for this type of application. Silicone is the final cosmetic seal, only. Use CT1 along the back of the tray as well, to mechanical fix this to the adjoining walls, masking the top of the tray to leave 3-4mm of tray exposed so you can dress the CT1 in and then remove the masking. Use baby wipes, lots of them, to remove the excess sealant. I would possibly use 1mm - 2mm packers to take up the part which requires the most amount of sealant to level the tray, but you shouldn't have the tray resting on a packer and the packer being sat on the floor, as there is a possibility of the tray moving when you're in there, under your weight, and this should be all resting on the CT1 vs direct mechanical fix.

44kw...!! Yikes. Anyhoo, as you plan to reuse that elsewhere (which one will you remove btw?) pointless going over that. On the proposed I saw the 2 HP's tee'd together to do DHW, but I assume that will no longer be the case; only 1x HP can do the DHW cycle obvs.

Is it a cheap freezer? Sorry for the lack of touchy/feely, but mine is 24 years old and is steaming on like a demon still (Hotpoint frost free).

Clean the heat exchanger on the back of it with a vacuum. Any amount of dust/crud on there will make it impossible for the unit to dissipate the heat it needs to shift away to be functioning optimally.

It's a bit like leaving a fecking window open...... utter shite. All these sorts run for the hills when you ask them to turn up the dial on GAF. Shocking tbh.

1) I'm not lucky enough to be self-building yet...... 2) I often don't see the woods for the trees.....

Do you have a schematic you can share?

Lol. Not in this instance, so afaic you DEFO need a mixing valve here to cap the max flow temp into the floor.

I doubt this will move that much, so CT1 would do the job. If insects are getting in, then maybe look external as well, and see if you can get some insect mesh installed to stop the majority of the problem at source. Mask the concrete with something that won't leave a residue (frog tape etc) and apply the CT1 after that's applied properly. Then use baby wipes to remove the excess CT1 as using a finger etc is not going to work as it does with silicone. Maybe buy one of the cheap silicone application tools off amazon/other, so you can smooth/shape the CT1 before you remove the masking and leave to cure.

It looks like Edward Scissorhands did this after his Parkinsons was fully developed...... That's shocking 'carpentry' and the leadwork is 'not great'. Some more pics, but not so close up, would be good.

......😑 "oops!". Get it all masked people, it's in their remit/costs and saves a boatload of time. They (AB) ask that you complete all 1st fix work, plumbing/electrical/ventilation etc, including any penetrations you need to make in the build fabric, ahead of their arrival. Getting plasterboard on, on the inside face of the external walls, would prob be a good position to be in before getting 'sprayed' possibly with back boxes in if these are getting drilled and fixed vs fast fix boxes etc. They say that you only need to foam around doors and windows, and that you don't need to apply AT tape there, and their product will do the job of sealing up without issue. I asked about longevity there, and apparently not a problem. So, you can factor in the cost of time/tape for all doors and windows, and apply that to their price tag, making it cheaper again. They are in and out in a day too, which is pretty damn good.

I would try water and a dish scrubby pad doodah first, as it is a water-based product iirc?

I have spoken with AB at length, so I could better understand their processes and procedures, and the lions share of their installed cost is for time spent with site prep and hunting down any obvious faux pas; costs include masking off of all doors/windows and anything precious etc, with then a couple of hours spent for actually 'treating' the dwelling. @Post and beam, does that ring true? The more I look into this the more it makes sense to do it on every project, to make a good home "great" as they say. 63% is a hell of an improvement, and as an advocate of "airtightness, airtightness, and more airtightness", to squeeze every drop of HR out of the MVHR, this seems like a great product/service to me.

It's borderline dangerous for me to not do it, eg when I am the contractor and the one underwriting the promises I make, but self-builders who are building a home on their own information/merits can roll whatever dice they like; caveat is, then, that it'll be too late to do anything 'elegant' about it. UFH is an 'elegant' solution that leaves furniture layouts mostly unaffected, but obvs there's the ones who will install a panel heater/other auxiliary heater to mitigate in case of the need for any additional (sporadic) heat input. For me, UFH is cheap enough to install in the grand scheme, heats without intervention, and is absolutely the most 'elegant' solution for sure. There's also the resale element where it would be difficult, perhaps, to convince a buyer that it isn't needed/that no heating upstairs is a universally acceptable situation, whereas they may be 'freezers' and want the rooms at 21 overnight. Bedroom doors do not get left open, typically, so the heat doesn't/won't migrate from the GF to the rooms above. For completeness I shall be recommending the installation of UFH in all habitable 1st floor spaces from here on in, for all my new clients builds, but with a compromise as you say. I shall not be fully populating the room with UFH, instead only installing it in the central 2/3's of the room; truth is, if it IS needed then it'll only be for a few 100's of watts, defo <1000w, so a 5mx5m room would give out just shy of 1kw of heat at 60w/m2 at ~66% coverage, which would be plenty (or even overkill as I am sure I am about to be told....). North facing rooms defo don't get to the same ambient as the other 3 sides, from what I have experienced directly on many differing sites/projects, first hand, so that'll be my benchmark moving forward. If there's a PH certified designer in the wings then they can underwrite NOT installing FF UFH, but then I can use that as a parachute if the shit ever hits the fan and the homeowner complains that one or more rooms doesn't climb above 18oC in the arse of winter.

I'm sure it would be easier to say you're on gas, and omit the HP from the form. Let them install, and then fit it later with a retro-application. The issue here is that they just don't realise that a high performance dwelling that is ultra low energy use has a load for the HP lesser than clicking the kettle and the toaster on at the same time. Modern inverter HP's ramp up softly, so there's very little to worry about there, just the DNO assume huge motor loads and start up currents (from shunt resistance) and it's just not the case nowadays. They should just ask if it is definitely an inverter HP (soft start) and assume the load is negligible. As said, it's one supply or the other, but if you see what a 60a supply can actually run without popping the HRC fuse you wouldn't believe your eyes. Just think of how many folk get a HP installed to existing stock and the supply isn't upgraded. They'd be better off asking about the induction hob as that's way higher consumption, some are crazy big.

To stop fire / flames rising up the cavity, should a fire break out in the garage.

We knew this day would come......

Some of the cylinder manufacturers may be able to point you somewhere to do it.

Gutted. I’d have bought one without hesitation but all of the manufacturers literature put me right off. Some saying 4 hour cycles.

Also factor in the cost of pump(s) accumulators / break tanks, filtration and sterilisation, plant and more. Needs to be a ‘system’ cost vs a hole in the ground eg before you compare to a quote to bring in mains water.

I guess they dry at lower temps, so take longer to do the same job as a toasty hot electrical heating element?

I avoided a HP TD as all the manufacturers stated very very long drying times…..