Nickfromwales

Maybe you're ignoring the huge volume, plus the people who never claim.....aka balance? How many motorists were on the roads today, and maybe 5 or 10, or 25% had an accident..... It's like a lottery win every day for these providers! The majority of claims are bogus until challenged, an evaporate as quickly as they appeared. Insurance companies pay specialists to review and investigate claims to try and find a way to get off the hook. Ask me how I know! I have zero sympathy for insurers, they make a fortune, end of. My 17 year old son changed the postcode for his car insurance policy quote to a "des-res" area 10 miles away, and it dropped by £2k. WTAF??? My oldest was sitting at a red light, broad daylight, and 'whack'. Some 17 year old girl in a clio wrote him off. Hit him so hard the radio was in his lap. She got out of the car and said she didn't see him as she was still on a facetime call with her boyfriend. Then her family rallied to the scene and advised she said to the police her brakes failed; a quick search showed the car MOT'd a few weeks prior. No charges brought btw. As she was a weeping 17 year old girl not one of the crowd of attending "police officers" approached my son to ask if he was injured or needed medical attention. He rang me and I said he should walk the scene and video the lot for insurance to not argue back. He then got challenged and threatened in front of said "public servants". Useless wankers in attendance that night. My sons renewal then shot up as he had to declare a (expletive deleted)ing non fault accident. That is just legalised theft, plain and simple. If it's such a poor income generated from being a warranty provider (insurance company) then the warranty companies should accept financial advisors recommendations to close the doors perhaps, eh? Or maybe they still operate as it turns out it's not so bad after all? C'mon people....... 🙃 FFS. PS, it's good to vent. No personal attack etc.

Ah........... I was hoping you wouldn't bring that up tbh....... Theyre wrong too.

Hold up there boss man........ We have a broken arrow here. And I would either comply with that requirement or exceed it in every single thing I ever do. @G and J has gone rogue here, prob too much cement dust that's gone to his brain, and is asking if it's worth adding in. No, it's not. B regs GA drawings will be supported by the PD, and all necessary risk will have already been mitigated against and underwritten by their PI insurance; and some qualifications of some sort....... so the client asking, if intumescent ridge tiles is a good idea to include, will meet with the same response. "NO". I am in no way suggesting to steer away from a professionally drafted specification.

Not sure how to tell you this......... ..but the tiles are on wrong. The lines are suppose to go up/down not left/right. Should be a quick fix though

If fire has made it's way to the VCL, then you're either dead or watching the fire brigade evacuate the neighbours. "Less gin, more tonic" moment here....

I'd say avoid steel. I've seen too many with the enamel chipped and then they start to rust. Search up trojan cast too, for properly tough reinforced acrylic / grp types. Standard flimsy baths are not designed for you to stand in, that's why shower-baths always come slightly more robust, to take the point pressure of you standing in one spot. Same. Makes a good job great, and as I was often removing U/S baths I kept the tidy feet for such instances.

If there's mention of damage, then replace, yes. You need someone HETAS registered to do the work ok, so don't take anyone's word for it, ask to see their credentials.

There should be no reason, if that's not damaged, why you cant fit a new closure plate and re-use. Looks awfully small bore for a solid fuel appliance though? Did you have much of an issue with spillage?

The temp of the slab is never, imho, going to be high enough to have an amount of movement that a modern decoupling membrane wouldn't deal with simply. And then you'd have to convince me. You can get tile adhesives that allow <10mm of decoupling between both surfaces. What are your intended floor finishes to be?

My Bosch is quite clever, as it'll spin up very slowly with the clothes changing position, and keeps doing so until the load is even, and then it speeds up bit by bit and then if happy goes for gold. If it can't get happy it doesn't go faster than 800rpm I think (1600 machine) to stop it from committing harakiri.

They will email you one I'm sure, just ping them a request

Illbruck FM 330 expanding foam. Defo nothing that would bridge damp such as wood / mortar and the like. Would need some DPM there obvs, but that foam goes off way tougher than the usual foams from builder merchants etc. You'd foam and fit the boards as you went along, so the boards are perimeter sealed with the 330 foam, both in front of and behind the DPM. FYI the 330 foam is closed cell so won't bridge damp like most regular off-the-shelf foams, plus it kills off the cold junction between the existing floor and the new, and is much much hardier all round. LINK

Words I never thought I'd see in the same sentence on here, but hey ho lol. So airtight, and then trickle vents in all the windows and extractor fans I guess?

I most definitely am! I was just asking, because if there's a quality frame such as yours, and most AT methodology is known from day dot, you could avoid that cost, perhaps, that's all Out of curiosity, when had you panned getting them in, and were you going to attempt a DIY blower (pre) test of any sort?

Prob with ICF is you need to pump or hand-ball from a flexi bucket to get it into the 150mm gap. Would require staging to do that from a barrow, successfully I expect.

The AVCL leaks behind the layers though, so the taping isn't really robust, but where do you stop if there's trades blasting through jobs. The best thing I find is speaking to the trades before they get their tools out.

I'd just store the plywood in the rooms to acclimatise, prob for 48hrs min, and then they should just stay at ambient and not do much more tbh. Saw a whole house in oxford prepped for Amtico, and they just carried the boards in, butted the boards up to each other, PVA'd the Egger P5's, and then counter-sunk and blasted in a bezillion screws. Holes/gaps were just filled with exterior grade filler afaik, and then sanded back by the Amtico guys who then applied feathering compound and sanded that back again. If the boards are left in these spaces for a day or two that should satisfy any worries, if any actually exist that is.

What was the cost of a cube from the dry wagon, if you can recall? Saw one in action in Ilford, was quite impressed by the concept.

If you've 2 mixers on site and 3 bodies you can mix and pour for a small DIY job like this. Don't choose librarians, get some guys with thick arms and strong backs, as the pace will be relentless for an hour or two. I guy feeding the next mix into the empty mixer, 2 guys supporting/hand-balling the mix into flexi-tubs and into the ICF. If you're on site to help out even better. Don't attempt this on your own btw.....

He's not doing a build, this addition IS "the build"

Get them listed on BH marketplace?

Don't put in fan coils, or don't.....put in fan coils instead? Reads both ways, so just for clarity plz

Any gaps would have to be filled as even with the underlay the lino will show everything under it, as would LVT.

DIY it in EPS ICF blocks? You'll have issues with rain penetrating if you just use aerated block, unless you can render externally?

You mean you'll ask them to do it as 'makeup' ? They should finish this so your external finishes go up to their makeup, if being left exposed for any length of time.