Temp

Under ultrafast mine just says "Not announced".

This is the typical set up but they usually come with (inadequate) instructions.. Run CAT cable from your router to each AP. Power up one of the AP. Browse a Web page listed in the the instructions. This web page actually resides in the Access Point. You may have to enter a password listed on the box. Then you have to change things like the admin password, the SSID (network name you want), the user password and the chanel frequency (so its not the same as your router or neighbours). Then you should be able to connect to that AP over WiFi. Repeat for other AP. However it's not always that simple and there can be tricky problems with IP addresses. If not confident then the mesh type are simpler.

Apparently this is new. Enter post code and address.. https://www.openreach.com/fibre-checker

Personally I prefer wired WiFi Access Points as these allow you to space them out further. But you do need to do a bit more setting up.

The general rules are.. – No outbuilding on land forward of a wall forming the principal elevation – Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of 4 metres with a dual pitched roof or 3 metres for any other roof – Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse – No verandas, balconies or raised platforms on outbuildings or sheds – No more than half the area of land around the “original house” would be covered by additions or other buildings – In National Parks, the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage Sites the maximum area to be covered by buildings, enclosures, containers and pools more than 20 metres from house to be limited to 10 square metres – In National Parks, the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, conservation areas and World Heritage Sites, enclosures, containers and pools at the side of properties will require planning permission – Within the curtilage of listed buildings any outbuilding will require planning permission Heights of buildings are generally measured favourably to you. Eg measure from the highest ground adjacent to the building. Is there a raised bit of deck at the front? Can you post a photo? I think you might need to write back to the planning department to ask them to carify what the issue is as it appears to comply with permitted development rules. You can point out it's under 2.5m measured from the highest ground next to the building.

That's normally all you need. If you really want to you can apply for a certificate of lawfulness on the grounds development has started. But there is a fee for that.

We have a Freeview aerial and Freesat PVR. But we've recently dedicated an old laptop to TV. Mostly so we can run a VPN for our F1 sub. Figure that might be the way to go in future. At some point I was going to look for a remote to drive it.

Currently each channel needs its own app and I don't think any allow recording of streamed programs. This article from 2021 says there is a one app does it all in the works but who knows when. https://www.cordbusters.co.uk/freeview-broadcasters-all-in-one-streaming-app/

Then I agree with @bassanclan

Consider masking everything with tape before gluing as adhesive is likely to escape?

OB1 lot cheaper on Amazon or at Wickes but check size is same. Under £8.

+1 In England I don't think fire doors need closers. Except perhaps between garage and house? We got completion with missing wall lights and exposed wires. Just tape up the ends.

I'd put pipe in the floor upstairs just in case.

It's not on a corner plot is it? If there was a road or footpath on the right hand side that would make a difference.

Heard on the radio yesterday that Liverpool has initiated fire watch patrols on 32 tower blocks it owns after a report concluded that EPS based cladding had contributed to a fire in one of them and could have been serious in another if it had started lower down the block. Fire expert interviewed said the government had been advised to carry out tests on EPS based insulation following the Grenfell tower fire but had refused to do so. I got the impression from the interview that the government attitude was.. EPS insulation isnt the same type as that responsible for Grenfell so no need to worry about it. The expert suggested the attutude was that covering the insulation in aluminium somehow made it safer than the Grenfell type where as in reality the EPS melted and the aluminium fell off allowing it to burn. Sorry if I've missed reported anything but I was driving at the time.

The air is naturally drier in winter so I'd stop water getting in then keep the windows open as much as possible. Theft/squatters permitting.

I usually read the comments while waiting for the ads to end. I expect they will stop that soon.

The Geberit frames and the cisterns that come with them are fine but we had issues with their regular concealed cistern. As per the OP post there was an issue with the flush pipe where it exited the Cistern. It leaked and could have caused a big flood because when the level dropped it opened the fill valve. This is how loose the fitting was when I took it out... https://youtu.be/t8Qvs-VkPBk

https://www.constructionenquirer.com/2022/11/07/roof-failure-alert-over-substandard-timber-battens/

I've no idea if this is worth trying or waste of money but only £26... https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-Carbide-Cutter-Drill-Stainless/dp/B07FMQPXSQ?th=1 For pressure jury rig some sort of lever from 2x4. One man on the drill, one on the lever, third on the hose?

+1 to cutting a thread or tracing it back to something that already has one. I think these have been recommended on the forum before but I've not used them.. https://www.speedy-plastics.co.uk/shop/mdpe-watermains/mdpe-plasson/universal-coupler-10017/plasson-25mm-mdpe-pipe-to-universal-pipe-coupler-19mm-22mm/

Do you need the stack in the corner for other reasons such as an upstairs WC? It can be tricky to connect a shower into the pipe at a WC. Especially if it comes up through the floor right where the WC is going. I would consider buying pipe and fittings to do a mock up of the arrangement before you are committed. The Architects stack in the corner approach allows you to defer thinking about the details a bit but you still need to think how the shower will connect into the stack if you don't want it raised on a plinth. You could also consider running 110mm under the floor to where the basin is going. Otherwise it appears that's also going to mean raising the shower so it can go under the shower to the stack.

About 5kW. Looks interesting if not very green.. Comments by "Victoria Plum" worth reading if you buy one.

I would do a sketch cross section highlighting: vapour barrier vapour permeable membrane over facial ventilation and rridge ventilation Thickness of insulation and insulated plasterboar See what Building Control say. You might want to put something on top of the rafters at the eaves so you don't see the underside of the membrane between the exposed rafter ends. Eg WBP plywood or T&G boards?

Yeah we have a plastic vapour barrier between insulation and regular plasterboard. Some insulated plasterboard includes a vapour barrier.. https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en/products/insulation-boards/wall-insulation-boards/kooltherm-k118-insulated-plasterboard/ It might also be possible to use a plastic sheet vapour barrier between your rafters and the insulated plasterboard but it would need a calculation to check its on the warm side of the dew point.