Temp

+1 to @CC45 and @Toppers After building wall (and allowing plenty of time for the mortar to full harden) compact the ground inside. I would hire a vibrating wacker plate for that. Then build up layers of hardcore (possibly MOT Type 1) until the right height. Each Layer compacted with the wacker plate. Then approx 3" layer of concrete. Depending on access and quantity needed I'd probably get ready mix delivered. Couple of friends and some beer to help rake and level it? If you are feeling really keen put a sand blind and membrane on top of the hardcore to stop water leaking out of the concrete potentially weakening the mix. You could omit the concrete if using pavers instead of tiles. In that case compacting the base is even more important. If you go for ready mix try and prep another job (steps?) to use any excess concrete. Then you can risk over ordering slightly. Remember you shouldn't bridge the DPC or block under floor vents on the house. Might be an idea to leave a 6-8" wide gap filled with gravel to minimise rain splashing up above DPC. Should also be a fall on the top surface so rainwater runs away from the house.

Sorry if this is obvious but.. Do you actually mean a raft foundation or are you referring to a floor slab?

Basic VAT rules for a new build are.. * Labor MUST be zero rated to you. You cannot reclaim it from HMRC if you pay in error. * You can only reclaim VAT on materials you buy. Eg it must have your name on the VAT invoice. * If you get someone to do "supply and fit" then BOTH labor and materials MUST be zero rated to you. The contractor can reclaim the VAT he paid, or rather it will be accounted for in his regular VAT return. So since your man isnt VAT registered your best bet is to buy the materials yourself and "free issue" them to him to errect for you as others have suggested. Is the CIL operating in your area? If so you must live there for 3 years after completion if you claim the self build exemption. I believe you can use the self build VAT reclaim scheme if building a house for a relative BUT not if it's a build for sale. I'm not sure the same applies to the CIL. Your parents might have to claim the exemption. Beware the CIL rules. One missing form and you can become liable to pay it.

One problem is that BCO can quit their jobs and the new one might have different ideas on what you need to do. For that reason I probably wouldn't keep one application open for many years.

Welcome to the forum. My builder liked to say you can build anything if you have enough money. The dormer is quite narrow so when you say extend the dormer do you mean... a) turn it into a corridor to a much wider first floor bedroom or b) make the whole dormer wider? When you extend the kitchen 2m I assume you will be removing the wall so the kitchen is two meters bigger? That and the fact you want a room above may mean sections of the flat roof ends up being replaced. This will certainly need planning involvement but I guess it might not need a full planning application. Deeper rear extensions are allowed on detached properties under the pre-approval/neighbour consultation scheme. The government is also in the process of changing the rules on adding extra floors which might help a lot. I would wait for the details of that to be published before going too much further. I would see if the person that designed the original extension is still around. Find out if he can comment on the feasibility of doing what you want and quote to do the drawings.

Possibly. If it's just ancillary to an existing house (eg a guest bedroom, games room etc) then no. If it's going to be a new dwelling that can be "separately occupied" and sold off as a separate dwelling then yes. What does your planning permission say? Edit: If it's a conversion they should charge 5% VAT and you can reclaim that from HMRC.

A really good old school tiler doesn't need a levelling system. A bad tiller will mess up the job with or without a levelling system.

Got any windows high up?

?? Pretty sure it's just 11kv not 11kva (11kva is only enough for one electric shower). If they are quoting for a much bigger supply than you need I believe there are ways of reclaiming a share of the infrastructure cost when other houses are connected. See bottom of page 30.. https://www.ukpowernetworks.co.uk/internet/en/about-us/documents/UKPN-CCCMS-April-2017-v1.0-PXM-2017-04-06.pdf See if your DNO will do same.

As for the actual amount... 300m of 11kV cable and a transformer is never going to be cheap. I think 11kv cable in trench is over £60 a meter. That alone accounts for £18,000... https://www2.theiet.org/forums/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=205&threadid=38147 Example costs here from another DNO.. https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/ofgem-publications/44527/8566-edfconchsch.pdf

No, VAT should be 0% to you. You must not pay VAT as you cannot reclaim VAT paid in error. You should ask them to requote specifying VAT at 0% on the grounds this relates to a new house... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/vat-on-fuel-and-power-notice-70119 "..the first time connection of a new dwelling or relevant residential or relevant charitable building to the gas or electricity mains supply is zero rated under Group 5 of Schedule 8 to the VAT Act 1994 if the connection is made as part of the construction of the building see Notice 708 Buildings and construction for further details" https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708 "First time gas and electricity connections 0% Fuel and power (VAT Notice 701/19)" If they try and argue that only the "connection" should be zero rated refer them to... "3.3.4 Work closely connected to the construction of the building Subject to paragraph 3.3.6, your work is closely connected to the construction of the building when it either: Snip (b) produces works that allow the building to be used, such as works in connection with the: Snip * means of providing water and power to the building (this can extend to the work required to make the connection to the nearest existing supply)"

There are lots online. Many have standard sizes and the aspect ratio of your house name may not suit the aspect ratio of the standard dimension. I recommend printing it out life size to check it looks ok and that the font is big enough to actually read from the road. I used a company called Slatework Signs.. Slateworksigns.co.uk

Will you ever be able to go on holiday again ?

How can they stop you carrying goods for someone else?

https://hardwicke.co.uk/boundary-disputes-a-quick-fire-guide-to-law-and-practice/

You better work quick before whoever looks after the place calls her.

That would be risky. If I was her and felt the fence was in the right place I would call the police to report criminal damage and a breach of the peace. The police wouldn't get involved in the land dispute but would most likely tell you to stop until you have a court judgement in your favour.

The other possibility would be to contact any removal companies. See if they have anyone moving off the island and offer them a load going the other way? Actually this sounds like an idea for a small business. Must be lots of people crossing with empty or part empty Van's. Perhaps one already exists?

Take a saw and straight edge? If you mark both sides of any cuts you can put them back together for minimal gaps later.

Will cut to size for extra £5... https://ooznest.co.uk/product/borosilicate-glass-build-plate/

Depending on how bad the wet rot is I would be asking my wife how badly she wants to live there. Then get quotes to replace whole roof and use that to haggle the price.

On my outbuilding I dug 2ft x 2ft holes. Compacted soil at the bottom of the holes using a ram, then put in 4" of MOT Type 1 hardcore I had left over from another job, also rammed. Then 100mm of concrete ( or rather I put concrete in until the level was right which was about 100-150mm depending on the hole). My out building is timber framed with oak posts and cladding and a clay tiled roof.

I think the main problem will be their lack of engagement with you. I don't think you can safely take the fence down without either their agreement or a court order. The latter might be expensive.

https://www.independent.co.uk/property/house-and-home/hands-off-that-fence-or-youll-be-hearing-from-my-solicitor-1275693.html

How does your title plan compare with the neighbours plan and the OS maps? http://www.land-registry-documents.co.uk/information/land-boundary-disputes/