Temp
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Everything posted by Temp
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Im surprised they achieved part E2 without sound insulation but that's what the joist manual is saying. Standards in Scotland are higher.
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Did they put that in writing?
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This suggests the holiday does apply.. https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/property/1308808/stamp-duty-holiday-does-stamp-duty-holiday-apply-to-second-home "Developers" and those purchasing a second home will still have to pay the 3% surcharge. Actually if you own a house you have to pay it and reclaim when you sell within 36 months. So I believe if you are buying the land to build your principle residence the holiday should apply. Err I think.
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I note they didn't specify what they mean by a fire door. There are several standards. We have a fire door on one bedroom and I defy anyone to tell the difference between that one and the other doors. It's just slightly thicker and feels more solid than the other doors. Certainly not ugly. No need for auto closing.
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Last I looked they do. As I recal.. Part E1 applies to separating walls (for example walls and floors seperating dwellings such as the party wall between semi detached houses and flats) and Part E2 applies to walls and floors between rooms within the same dwelling. Your floor/ceiling should meet part E2, which isnt as difficult as E1 but still exists unless I'm out of date.
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People down the road from us had a tank leak. It was only discovered after oil turned up in a stream 100 yards down the hill. Hate to think how much the clean up cost.
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As the SE what he expects. Our ground condition report involved digging two holes with a digger rather than "micro bole holes". Perhaps even ask him to recommend a company and what he thinks it should cost in your area. You might also get a percolation test done at same time if you will need soakaways or similar.
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Ok so Building Control are actually saying that your desired room layout isnt allowed by building regulations, HOWEVER in this particular case they are going to allow it provided you fit a fire door. If they are right about your room layout then by requesting a fire door they are actually helping you achieve what you want you build when normally they wouldn't allow it. So is there something about the windows or lack of windows in your bedroom and the ensuite that mean one or both is considered an inner room? If they both have windows do they meet the rules for escape? Eg clear opening widths? Not above a glass conservatory?
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I'd be very surprised if that meets building regulations, specifically Approved Document Part E. There are several ways to demonstrate compliance. One is to carry out a sound test. Another is to design and build to match a so called "robust design" which is a design someone else has built and tested. That might be the company that supplied the floor joists or the sound insulation they failed to fit. I would ask the builder how they demonstrated compliance with Part E to Building control. Ask which route they took to demonstrate compliance. If you appear knowledgeable they might give in an fit insulation that probably should have been there.
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Lot depends on what the surrounding houses look like? If every house around was similar in appearance built from local stone and slate then even modest changes might be difficult. If nearby houses are a right mix of styles and designs then even something outrageous might be allowed.
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Must be the only church in Bedfordshire that hasn't had it stolen. I live next door to a church in Cambs. Had most of the lead stolen 2 years ago and the rest last year. Never heard a thing despite evidence they used something like a hydraulic scissor lift to get access to the roof. Fit alarm and floodlights asap if not already got one.
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+1 to @CC45 and @Toppers After building wall (and allowing plenty of time for the mortar to full harden) compact the ground inside. I would hire a vibrating wacker plate for that. Then build up layers of hardcore (possibly MOT Type 1) until the right height. Each Layer compacted with the wacker plate. Then approx 3" layer of concrete. Depending on access and quantity needed I'd probably get ready mix delivered. Couple of friends and some beer to help rake and level it? If you are feeling really keen put a sand blind and membrane on top of the hardcore to stop water leaking out of the concrete potentially weakening the mix. You could omit the concrete if using pavers instead of tiles. In that case compacting the base is even more important. If you go for ready mix try and prep another job (steps?) to use any excess concrete. Then you can risk over ordering slightly. Remember you shouldn't bridge the DPC or block under floor vents on the house. Might be an idea to leave a 6-8" wide gap filled with gravel to minimise rain splashing up above DPC. Should also be a fall on the top surface so rainwater runs away from the house.
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Sorry if this is obvious but.. Do you actually mean a raft foundation or are you referring to a floor slab?
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Basic VAT rules for a new build are.. * Labor MUST be zero rated to you. You cannot reclaim it from HMRC if you pay in error. * You can only reclaim VAT on materials you buy. Eg it must have your name on the VAT invoice. * If you get someone to do "supply and fit" then BOTH labor and materials MUST be zero rated to you. The contractor can reclaim the VAT he paid, or rather it will be accounted for in his regular VAT return. So since your man isnt VAT registered your best bet is to buy the materials yourself and "free issue" them to him to errect for you as others have suggested. Is the CIL operating in your area? If so you must live there for 3 years after completion if you claim the self build exemption. I believe you can use the self build VAT reclaim scheme if building a house for a relative BUT not if it's a build for sale. I'm not sure the same applies to the CIL. Your parents might have to claim the exemption. Beware the CIL rules. One missing form and you can become liable to pay it.
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One problem is that BCO can quit their jobs and the new one might have different ideas on what you need to do. For that reason I probably wouldn't keep one application open for many years.
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Welcome to the forum. My builder liked to say you can build anything if you have enough money. The dormer is quite narrow so when you say extend the dormer do you mean... a) turn it into a corridor to a much wider first floor bedroom or b) make the whole dormer wider? When you extend the kitchen 2m I assume you will be removing the wall so the kitchen is two meters bigger? That and the fact you want a room above may mean sections of the flat roof ends up being replaced. This will certainly need planning involvement but I guess it might not need a full planning application. Deeper rear extensions are allowed on detached properties under the pre-approval/neighbour consultation scheme. The government is also in the process of changing the rules on adding extra floors which might help a lot. I would wait for the details of that to be published before going too much further. I would see if the person that designed the original extension is still around. Find out if he can comment on the feasibility of doing what you want and quote to do the drawings.
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Possibly. If it's just ancillary to an existing house (eg a guest bedroom, games room etc) then no. If it's going to be a new dwelling that can be "separately occupied" and sold off as a separate dwelling then yes. What does your planning permission say? Edit: If it's a conversion they should charge 5% VAT and you can reclaim that from HMRC.
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A really good old school tiler doesn't need a levelling system. A bad tiller will mess up the job with or without a levelling system.
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Got any windows high up?
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?? Pretty sure it's just 11kv not 11kva (11kva is only enough for one electric shower). If they are quoting for a much bigger supply than you need I believe there are ways of reclaiming a share of the infrastructure cost when other houses are connected. See bottom of page 30.. https://www.ukpowernetworks.co.uk/internet/en/about-us/documents/UKPN-CCCMS-April-2017-v1.0-PXM-2017-04-06.pdf See if your DNO will do same.
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As for the actual amount... 300m of 11kV cable and a transformer is never going to be cheap. I think 11kv cable in trench is over £60 a meter. That alone accounts for £18,000... https://www2.theiet.org/forums/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=205&threadid=38147 Example costs here from another DNO.. https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/ofgem-publications/44527/8566-edfconchsch.pdf
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No, VAT should be 0% to you. You must not pay VAT as you cannot reclaim VAT paid in error. You should ask them to requote specifying VAT at 0% on the grounds this relates to a new house... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/vat-on-fuel-and-power-notice-70119 "..the first time connection of a new dwelling or relevant residential or relevant charitable building to the gas or electricity mains supply is zero rated under Group 5 of Schedule 8 to the VAT Act 1994 if the connection is made as part of the construction of the building see Notice 708 Buildings and construction for further details" https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708 "First time gas and electricity connections 0% Fuel and power (VAT Notice 701/19)" If they try and argue that only the "connection" should be zero rated refer them to... "3.3.4 Work closely connected to the construction of the building Subject to paragraph 3.3.6, your work is closely connected to the construction of the building when it either: Snip (b) produces works that allow the building to be used, such as works in connection with the: Snip * means of providing water and power to the building (this can extend to the work required to make the connection to the nearest existing supply)"
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There are lots online. Many have standard sizes and the aspect ratio of your house name may not suit the aspect ratio of the standard dimension. I recommend printing it out life size to check it looks ok and that the font is big enough to actually read from the road. I used a company called Slatework Signs.. Slateworksigns.co.uk
