Temp

We have a visionic wireless alarm and a handful of wireless PIR sensors but its 13 years old so things may have changed. Positives.. Very impressed with their Quad series PIR sensors. Good battery life if you turn off the LED on them after set up (jumper inside). Never had a false alarm but we don't have pets. We use key fobs to arm/disarm the system like you do a car. We never use the key pad on the panel so its hidden away in a cupboard. It dials my mobile using land line when there is a status change. It has a wired output that could be used to operate an electronic lock, making it even more car like, but we've not used that. It has a wired input so you could connect some wired sensors if you wanted, but we've not done that. Negatives.. The set up menu i found complicated. Lots of features we never use. Things like "walk out zones" which I believe are sensors configured not to trip the alarm while you leave the building after arming via the control panel (which we never do because we use key fobs). You get 30-60 seconds anyway so we can still arm it while indoors. Our system is too old to linked to a security camera system. Well I think it could be but needed a box that wasn't available in the UK when we installed it. So we have a separate camera system. The integration might be better now?

Sounds like she hasn't realised you plan to replace that section of wall?

Sorry if you know this but... You can build upto the boundary but nothing must overhang without the neighbours permission, so no gutters or roof verge tiles projecting over the boundary. Getting planning permission or building control approval does not change that.

Check here to see who owned the original sewer pipe.. https://www.ofwat.gov.uk/nonhouseholds/supply-and-standards/responsibility-supply-pipes/

In summary... There would have been a fall from 208 to 204 that was "shared" between 208 and 206. Then along comes a builder and steals all the fall for 206 leaving none for 208. I would check your title deeds and the one for 206 to see what they say about the drains. The title can be obtained from the land registry web site for just a few £ and sent to you by email.

I think you might still be able to cast your own block/lintel.

Water is the bain of all outside lighting so make sure to use the highest IP rating you can get and check the design yourself. We originally used transformers that were potted and rated for burial in the ground. About half leaked. The air in the transformers expands and contracts with temperature changes and this can suck water in past even quite robust seals.

We went for some round copper wall lights like these.. Modified mine to 240V double insulated so i could eliminate buried transformers and use GU10 LEDs.

Do you have any other stacks? What about neighbours the other side of you?

The story doesn't make a lot of sense and understanding it is probably key to the best fix. All I can think is they broke or blocked the original pipe between you and couldn't be bothered to fix correctly so rigged this mess up...but it doesn't really explain the issue with falls. Where were your drains connected before? Could you reinstate your original connection and let the neighbours sort out whatever happens in their garden as a result? Or use rights or easements in your deeds to force them to fix the blockage or break in your original pipe? Is this pipe or the original owned by the water Co since the "recent" rule changes? If so perhaps they should be fixing it and chasing the neighbour?

Aside: If your pipes are this high is there enough room to fit the required large radius bends at bottom of stacks and ground floor WC?

Yes but not as a form. Actually use the pipes cast into the concrete block. Its quite common to run pipes through the foundation pour. The insulation allows a bit of movement due to settling but that is really only important when using clay pipes that can crack. You might also be able to put the beams of the b&b floor either side of the pipe and replace a block with a lintel. I'll try and make a drawing in a moment.

. Actually I'm miss reading the drawing. It shows the beam and padstone on the inner half of the wall. The side elevation drawing shows it below the new joists , which is done to prevent a thermal bridge.

If you put it on the outer leaf will it fit between top of lintel and underside of rafters/new ceiling joists? It appears to be shown above outer leaf on the drawings.

Some 13 years ago I paid £550 for a site survey and Tree Impact Statement. It listed all the important rees on site and their worth/quality or not and a description of the impact our development might have on 3 TPO trees. Eg "Tree 1,4 and 6 will need physical protection during construction to BSxxxx"

I think I would wrap short lengths of pipe in insualtion and lay them cross the top of the foundations. At some point cast them in concrete. If the beams of the B&B floor go either side of the pipe your cast concrete can replace a block and form a lintel.

Did our shower with Hardibacker and stone tiles. No issues 12 years on. Only thing is Hardi is pretty hard to cut. I've been through quite a few TCT jigsaw blades.

Dulux Endurance has been ok on our walls but I note others have found better above.

For bathroom ceilings especially over shower I've been convinced Zinsser is the best. Someone here suggested I try it and is solved issues we were having.

A QS we spoke to recommended withholding say 5% from each stage payment.

Thats correct but you can apply for a Certificate of Lawfullness on the grounds that development has commenced. Ive seen this done for a wind farm where they built the entrance then got a certificate so they were safe to put the development on hold while waiting several years for a grid upgrade. That is assuming you don't mind paying the fee.

There are a few videos on YouTube.

I'm not an SE but I am worried you have broken the triangulation provided by the rafter ties. In such cases i think you normally need collar ties (not enough headroom?) OR add a structural ridge beam (if suitable supporting walls exist for its ends to bear on) OR add Purlins (eg above your new steels and verticals between them) OR some combination of all of these maybe needed. The sort of work you are doing needs Building Control Approval and normally they would ask you to justify the design which is where an SE or similar comes in.