epsilonGreedy

Do you mean the Land Registry plan depicts a fat boundary line which which is around 2m wide or does the Survey Hub plan show your garden encroaches between 2.35 to 2.02 beyond their claim of the boundary?

Trouble is he is now emotionally and financially committed to a course of action. I have been told a land survey costs £400 + VAT for a simple residential plot assessment. Can anyone else confirm if this is a typical fee?

By "registered land" do you mean land shown to be included within the border of titled land known to the Land Registry? If so I do not think this undermines your case for claiming "adverse possession". In these situations established (> 12 years) physical boundaries trump lines on Land Registry documents.

Is that because of thermal concerns or do the two materials disagree with each other at a chemical level?

I think he means the heavy end of medium i.e. a block around 15kg. A truly heavy block is about 19kg.

Thanks. Is there a minimum stud diameter below which resin fixing is problematic? I think the screw holes in the strap are 5mm or 6mm.

Thanks. I had previously steered away from resin fixes because I thought these involved manually mixing up a pot of resin plus hardener. Watching a video the other day I discovered the industry has invented standard cartridges that mix the two components as the resin is squeezed out of the cartridge. Creating a dust free drilled hole looks key to a successful fix.

Before I move onto slating a small section of roof I need fix two long metal restraint straps under the ridge to reduce the risk of the ridge & truss flexing away from the abutment wall. There will be code 3 or 4 lead soakers above and don't want these to tear. The roof is small 4.25m x 3.1m eave to eave, 30 degree pitch and has two hips opposing the ridge abutment. I mention this to illustrate the forces involved are not great. It is fortunate that my brickie switched from 8kg light blocks to facing bricks well below the eventual truss ridge height so I can screw the metal straps to bricks rather than light blocks. Having read up on options for masonry fixings I reckon my options are: Masonry screws that self tap a thread after a large pilot hole is pre drilled. Fix in a threaded stud with resin and attach the metal strap. The straps are 1.4m long and will span 3 trusses, at the wall end there 3 fixing holes.

The problem with a ready-made plan is fitting it onto a plot. An architect will design a house to accommodate plot gradient, solar gain, TPO on trees, trees with nasty root systems, privacy requirements of a neighbour, your privacy relative to roads, noise, views, likely routes of inbound services, gradient for drainage and gradient from visitor set down point to main entrance.

I wonder if that warm edge is a consequence of a separate UFH pipe loop that routes to another room where the UFH is working. It would be good to know the dimensions of the room with the hot and cold floor sections then folks here can estimate how many heating loops are under that room. Your UFH pipes are numbered, do you have a plan showing which rooms they service?

Dedicated flooring sheets have a tongue & groove joint, my concern is that cutting through this will promote more flex. In your position I would spend more time tracking down the source of the creaking, a teenager with acute hearing might help. Failing that I would consider gluing down a thicker fancy floor finish like bamboo veneer sheets, Jeremy Harris probably blogged about this step in his build.

@immokk in an earlier post you mentioned a cold section of floor. How large is this room? And am I correct in thinking in this room with the cold and warm sections, the warm section is larger than what could be expected from a UFH single warm feed pipe enroute to another room?

Ground floor? Does the video show the bathroom floor? Is that floor covering a plastic laminate stuck down on the hard screed floor? Are you saying immediately after flushing the toilet you see water droplets pushing up between the floor section? Is there plumbing in a room above?

@ProDaveWhat do you think about the significance of the warm and cold zones in a single floor slab? Does the OP have a flow im-balance between different loops in the same room?

Over the fascia ventilation looks simple to implement with purpose made plastic vents whereas soffit ventilation will require more carpentry in my all wood eaves. Over the fascia eave ventilation was my original plan. Now I am having second thoughts due to concerns that sucking air into the attic space via a manky gutter will likely introduce moisture, microbes and smells into the attic space. On the few occasions I have cleaned a gutter this has involved scooping up a microbial soup from the bottom of the gutter in my hand. When considering how air enters an attic space through over the fascia vents, the ventilation air route necessitates an airflow under an eave tray that is lipped down over the gutter. Furthermore when it is raining and windy the eave ventilation air flow will be passing right through water running off the roof as it drips over the eave tray into the gutter which seems like a perfect design to suck a moist mist into the attic. Has anyone else considered the same? What other pro's and con's of over/under eave ventilation should I consider?

Thanks both, another item knocked of the roofing prep list.

That's like telling a bad karaoke to sing with open eyes.

I have been out playing with my new trim router, its a Makita weighing in at about 700 watts. @PeterWpreviously suggested anything bigger could be lethal in my hand. Tomorrow I am going to build a temporary external door frame for my house using some spare lengths of 3" x 2" softwood. My idea is to joint the frame covers with rebate joints formed by the router. Can a trim router comfortably munch out a 75mm x 45mm x 8m rebate? I have a routing bit with a 12.7mm diameter an max depth of 19mm.

Some humans do in error ?

I need to order some of that flimsy corrugated plastic roll which creates ventilation channels between the fascia and up over the top of the attic insulation. There seems little to distinguish between the offerings from different brands e.g. Manthorpe, Klobber or Glidevale. I have a minor concern that the upper edge of the plastic roll might abrade against the felt membrane above it and possibly saw through the felt over the years. Does anyone have a favourite? I am guessing many on the forum did not need to fit this type of ventilation in their warm roof spaces. https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/browse/ventilation/roll-out-panels.html p.s. My first roof project is a small trial, 4.25m x 3.3m in plan, two hips and a 30 degree pitch which suggests I need a wide version of such a roll to reach over the top of the attic insulation. In case anyone is confused by my post here is a video installtion guide by Redland:

I have the same model, it is my first circular saw. It drains my one and only 3ah battery quickly. The other problem is that if I hand steer the saw into a slight deviation from a straight cut it can stall the motor as the sides of the blade bind on the wood and generate friction. A couple of days ago I was cutting 18mm plywood and used another block of wood as a guide to steer the saw along a straight cut, in this situation it performed very well and sliced its way through the plywood like butter.

@Oz07your second photo above shows a combination of infill valley board pieces plus a continuous run over the rafters. Is that common? Fitted to bring the valley base up to the ideal height for the tiling?

I thought you were a BuildHub trendy hipster who opted for cavity fill beads?

Have you read the other ashp thread where the householder was complaining about his ashp getting iced up? An iced up ashp then wastes energy defrosting itself. One explanation offered is that the ashp was over worked and so had little time to idle and shed frost build up. The worst conditions for frosting apparently are damp days when the ambient outside temp is a few degrees above zero, just like your typical British winter day. @SteamyTeawill be along shortly to restate all that in a far more scientifically robust way.

I have been looking at lead scrap value compared to the same weight of lead supplied in the form of flashing roll. Would I be correct in thinking the scrap value is about half the ex. VAT value of retail lead roll flashing? The reason for this question is that I am thinking of practicing lead shaping (bossing) and wanted to have some idea how much the practice sessions would cost when I trade in the shaped (or misshaped) practice lead roll.