epsilonGreedy

Paid for due to my role as a software designer who created something that was then acquired by a US company for £90 million in today's money.

And you are funding it.

I am surprised to read that JH splashed out £65,000+ on the Ipace without a test drive considering that he is the world's most demanding consumer.

No I am relying on a physical land feature that previously defined the plot boundary.

The problem is I cannot form a viable drive to public road apron shaped as per the planning permission. An ambulance got stuck trying to enter the private estate on a lower priority 111/999 callout last November. A triangle 4m long 1m wide would resolve the access problem but since the attack I want the boundary restored to the Land Registry boundary which is the far side of the original drainage ditch. The full claim is 4m x 2.5m approx

That would require a Court Order, a week before Christmas the neighbour's appointed property guardian attacked me and after a 999 call uniformed police spent 2.5 hours on scene.

I doubt the drain is more than 1m deep and as just mentioned the area of uncertainty is 5m x 3m.

There is an access point nearby. The area to be investigated to establish the path of the drain is only 5m x 3m.

That is tricky when the exploratory holes would be in the middle of a disputed slice of land. The Land Registry plan shows both sides of an open field drainage ditch, overtime the ditch was filled in and culverted, then the neighbour killed off the hedge on one side of the old ditch.

The thing is I have discovered linseed oil paints and I am now a believer in its mystical qualities. Three sample pots arrived in the post 5 minutes ago. Looking ahead to 30 years of sash window painting maintenance I like the idea of starting off with linseed paint on the bare wood. Swmbo also likes the idea of a varnished/oiled interior finish and getting this done at a factory is very expensive. The linseed paint thing is just a whim at the moment though I will probably use the paint on my wooden boxed eaves.

The following steps have led to this question: My planning permission states I must fit wooden sash windows, 12 in total. Before buying the plot I got estimates for the factory made price of the windows and was then told fitting by the same supplier would be £200 per frame. I started to think through the complexities of diy window frame installation, my masonry window apertures sized to allow the sash frames to be fitted from the inside. I then started to worry about how to wriggle and shimmy the glazed windows through the aperture up to a snug fit with the facing bricks given their weigh, the biggest are around 100kg I recall. Concurrent to this I then looked at a few sash window restoration videos online and realized sash windows are designed to be part disassembled to get the sashes out (nice for painting in 10 years time). Combining points 4 & 5, I concluded it was simpler to fit the box sash frame minus the sashes and glazing = (guess) 75% weight reduction. Then fit the sashes as would a sash window restorer. Now I am thinking why no go the whole way, drive a transit van over to Lithuania, load it up with custom made unpainted and unglazed frames at the factory gate. Paint and glaze onsite with UK made and kite marked sealed glazing units, then fit disassembled as per point 6. Would my windows get past building control for a new build?

Technique Update: I discovered today that by shining my line laser across the irregular brick finish it creates a heat map of the high points on the cavity side of the facing bricks. I started off with a spirit level and marked the high points with a pencil, now I keep the laser trained across the brickface I am smoothing back and skim the grinder over the high points picked out by the laser line.

I saw one of those in action on a YouTube video and was going to ask here what it is called. Does anyone know the general name for this type of tool?

Once the mixing starts I assume that nozzle has a finite "pot time" but what about the remainder in the tube. If the mixing occurs within the tube then I assume these tubes are single use, else if the mixing occurs within the nozzle can I throw that away and use the remaining resin in the tube another day?

I have tidied up my first window brick aperture, the new £6 Erbauer disk works like a dream, it slices through the irregular brick overhanging in the cavity like butter. I will keep the more expensive Marcrist disk in reserve for a more demanding future job. Getting right into the upper corner of the window opening next to the lintel is still not possible with the 4" grinder, that looks like a job for a multi tool.

The dust free message was emphasized in a resin fixing video I watched, think they kept cleaning the hole with a purpose made dust blower and a small pipe cleaner brush. The cleaning cycle was repeated until no more was blown out. Good to know, when looking at options on Screwfix I was not clear if all the products included the built-in mixing. Ok time to start investigating resin guns, I was not aware there was a distinction.

For comparison: https://www.justlead.co.uk/product/flat-top-lead-roof-vent/

I was a bit disappointed by rawplugs in inner wall blocks and so started looking at resin fixing. When testing raw plugs prior to fitting wall plate straps to the internal blockwork I tried different screw sizes and drill bit sizes. Following advice from @joe90and drilled 0.5mm under size for a brown wall plug because the blocks were just on the light side of medium (Fibolites). The best combination (6.5mm bit + 5M wood screws could still be prized out with effort and a claw hammer. I was not troubled in the case of the wall plate straps because the load was at 90 degrees to the screws. However in the case of the roof abutment the load (if any) will be inline with the screws and pulling away from the wall. Before opting for resin fixing maybe I should rerun the wall plug test in a facing brick, the extra hardness might grip the raw plug better.

I thought I would experiment with resin anchoring today in a trial brick. It is for a small task, I have two metal lateral restraint straps to fix to the facing bricks at the point of a pitched roof abutment. The purpose of the straps is to prevent the ridge and trusses easing away a few mm from the abutment wall. The smallest metal studs for resin fixing seem to be 6mm. My question: Screwfix list different varieties of resin, which one should I use?

Thanks, I put meranti + Lincolnshire into a Google search and found a specialist timber merchant just 15 miles away. Since starting this thread I spoke to the UK manufacturer of a linseed oil based paint and there advice for fascias was use an untreated softwood. The explanation was that for the linseed paint and its zinc to work it needs to penetrate deeper than a regular paint and any prior wood treatment interferes with this. The quality of this advice might not become apparent for 10 years.

Yes indeed I abandoned my first trial when I noticed the reduced ragged edge to the cutting disk.

See my new gloves thread. Pardon? Can you say that again more loudly.

Last year there was a gruesome photo thread depicting selfbuild injuries, the worst accidents shown involved an angle grinder. Over the next few weeks I will be using a 4" angle grinder for hours. Charlie diyte recommends these Stanley gloves https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01BI3YTCC?ref=exp_charliediyte_dp_vv_d in his favourite tools Amazon shop https://www.amazon.co.uk/shop/charliediyte?listId=28S4TZ36YIYMU My only concern is that they are so thick I might not be able to control the grinder so well. Is there a more hi-tech alternative that will prevent a cutting blade slicing into my hand?

Just logging my noddy experiences here to benefit others later... After a 24 hour delay searching for the grinder disk release pin spanner I ventured out to experiment with the 4" 1/2 240v angle grinder. The two disks supplied with the grinder were useless, the 6mm thick abrasive disk was slow work. The thin cutting disk went through one brick but half way through the second I realized the disk had lost 1/2" in diameter. I am heading out to my nearest Screwfix to buy a proper masonry segmented cutting disk, this Erbauer https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-masonry-stone-segmented-diamond-cutting-blade-115-x-22-2mm/4896v at £6 is nearly 3 times cheaper than https://www.screwfix.com/p/marcrist-multi-material-diamond-segmented-blade-115-x-22-2mm/15915 Think I need some thick leather gloves as well.

Yes they do look good, it is the darker ones that tend to have the rubbish in their mix.